I like it. Simple enough for an beginner to build and I am sure it works better than cans costing 10 times as much! :mrgreen: The only thing I would like to know is if you installed a drilled plug maybe 1/4" thick at the end of the flash suppressor would that act as the primary blast baffle and...

It can be done but it is almost a crap shoot if it with line up good enough. I made a press on muzzle adapter for a .22 Luckily it turned out good. It goes on an old Browning trombone. I didn't want to alter the barrel so I made the adapter. It does work. When installing, heat it up and gently tap i...

An FFL used to be required in Mo. but they dropped that last year. Now anyone can own one. Paperwork is a bitch though.

Two Form 4s already and waiting for a Form 1 right now.

And noticed that the reciever extension (buffer tube) might make a very nice case for a .22 suppressor. Just drill out and thread the back end and turn off the forward threaded area. Throw in some sort of baffle stack and you are in business.

Of course all laws apply..

I load a 165gr gas checked bullet into 38 super brass to fire out of a Star model A super that has been rechambered to use 38 super brass. So yeah, as long as the measurements are right it doesn't matter what is says on the box. (Within reason, you still need to make sure the velocity is within the ...

I have seen the blueprints to those alien baffles, they look great but until I can figure out how to get the lathe to turn in the 5th dimension I can't use the subspace vortex effect to duct the noise through the wormhole. Oh well, back to drinking my last brain cell into sweet oblivious stupor.... ...

Meh, I already talk to trees and bugs, they are actually some of my best friends. Why just this morning I was chatting with Mr. Red Maple in the back yard and he was suggesting combining the boobie baffles with a stepped cone blast.... umm, nevermind...
Thanks again!!

Thanks!
Your posts are both educational and entertaining. Keep up the great work.

One last question.
When is it best to drill out the holes? after punching them out but before assembly or put the assembled suppressor on a lathe and bore it straight through then?
Thanks again!!!

A few more questions if you don't mind. First, how far can you push out a freeze plug before you run into problems like stretching the metal too thin or even cracking? Is the boobie (I love that name for a baffle!) better at resisting this than an "M" (cone) baffle? Would a true cone shape...

Very clever idea, it looks like they came out great.
So how do boobie baffles compare to "M" baffles made from the same freeze plugs on the same press?

How long had they been married? Usually it takes a few years before they just lay there like that.
Maybe he wasn't paying attention and didn't notice she hadn't said "Are you finished yet?" or maybe he just painted the ceiling and didn't expect any comments about that.....

Would it be strong enough for a .308 out of a 18" barrel? Assume the only change is in the bore diameter.
Oh, and would it likely be effective?

I believe those freeze plugs are carried by O'reilly's Auto Parts. If you have one nearby you might want to check.
Very nice CAD drawing. Be sure to tell us how well it worked.

I think I kinda understand a bit more now but just be sure will adding dater holes to a simple K baffle design help at all? Should they be aligned to strip off gas or staggered to slow it all down? And how large should they be? It would be awesome if there was some sort of off the shelf CAD program ...

So, if I understand correctly mouseholes would be of little to no benefit on a "M" baffle, washer baffle or any other type of baffle that directly connects to the bore?
However mouseholes on a blast baffle would still be beneficial on these type of designs.
Did I get that right?

Should they be aligned or staggered around a radius? This would be on a freeze plug type main body. Ezpansion chamber would have a heavy machined step baffle with out mouseholes.
Thanks!

Is there any reason suppressor tend to use a very fine pitch thread? Wouldn't 1/2-20 works as well as 1/2-28? I understand using a system to keep someone from accidently mounting a .22 can on a .308 but is there an engineering reason for this.

I really do appreciate this but could someone post a formula where all we have to do is plug in the numbers? A spreadsheet would be awesome. Just plug in the bore diameter, barrel length and get a range/ideal expansion chamber size etc. I am not complaining, I really do appreciate this primer, I jus...

I have been wondering about something similar, pressed freeze plug baffles separated by washers.
Looks great, how well does it work?

Just a standard Wiselite Sterling clone. From reading the replies here and a few other places I think cutting the barrel and permanently attaching the suppressor will be the easiest option. Using the barrel nut thread to mount the suppressor then drilling, pinning and welding over the top to make it...

Considering my trident 9 works quite well on my 300 whisper I would guess yes, it could quite possibly work well.

I have a Wiselite Sterling in 9mm. I was going to SBR it but have changed my mind. I am going just add an integral suppressor. Hey, $200 tax stamp either way and integrally suppressed is much kewler. So, if you could help me with a few questions. 1. Do I need to keep the barrel length at 16" th...

Ask and ye shall recieve....

Holee shiite! I ain't seen you in forever Metalman. I see you are into suppressors now. I am in the process of of building my first form one can now. I just can't see spending hundreds of dollars for something I can make myself. Hope all is well with you. Oh, very nice suppressor you made there. I a...

I have a mini lathe but I am not good enough at threading to risk screwing up something I have that much time in making.
Come to think of it, I don't have enough room between centers to thread a tube that long.