T-Rex wrote:

mscott wrote: in case I ever get an itch for a .500 S&W.

Why would you want to silence the beast

Nine used to breathe dragon flames

We just got a law passed and now we can hunt with cans, so just planning ahead.
I'm working on a .460 S&W bolt gun that is somewhat of a dragon itself.

For sub sonic loads just to be hearing safe 12" is way overkill. I would go around 1.75" OD x 8" it should be quiet and still not be too cumbersome in the field. I agree. I have a form 1 filled out with those very dimensions in mind. Only difference is mine will be a .50 cal in case ...

I helped a friend build a shorty that worked out fairly well. It was 4.75" and 1.5" OD. Used 3 step cone baffles. 316 stainless tubing was left at .080ish wall thickness out of pressure concerns, 20 tpi threaded end caps. Tested on 7.5" and 10.5" barrels. It's not exactly hearing...

Here are some $30 muzzle brakes that you could likely make work http://www.harrellsprec.com/muzzle_breaks.html

not going to rag on it to death but the core needs help. better performance and you could lose an ounce or two. good job on completing the can Feel free to inject your opinion as that's what this forum is all about. Performance might be improved, but losing enough weight from the core to matter isn...

For your duracoat question. I made a SS can .223 and coated it with regular duracoat. We were torture testing a TM AR and AA piston system. We put approximatly 300 rounds through it on FA and the duracoat flashed, as instantly gone. Recoated with hi temp duracoat and it is still there today. The hi...

That's pretty cool.

How many of you watched that video and then did some quick research on building one???

mscott - How is the duracoat holding up? I'm thinking about using cerakote c series. Duracoat is holding up fine. I tried BBQ grill paint, but it didn't like getting too hot and would get sticky. I haven't done any mag dumps with an AR or anything, but I've had my magnum can up to about 200 degrees...

I've shot it alongside of several commercial cans and I'm not giving anything up in sound suppression to them. I wouldn't put it on a magnum as it is right now, but if the end caps were welded it might hold up. I already built a bigger version for the big stuff anyway. Here's that thread with a vide...

It appears that a wipe could fit in the endcap. Have you tried that yet? Thought about it, but don't see a need for one. If I were trying for the ultimate in quiet it might be worth experimenting with, but am happy as can be with it right now. One guy asked about shooting it wet, so we tried it. I ...

steve_dune wrote:Do you have any videos?

No videos. I'm hoping Santa will bring me a video camera

The hogue Power Speed holster works pretty well. You have to get used to the lock, but it eliminates the need to draww the can out of an enclosed holster. I have one adjusted for Glocks and it works great with the Ruger auto .22s.

Here's another one I built earlier in the year, but never got around to taking pics. Specs: 6" long, 1" dia stainless tube and threaded end caps .050 wall 7075 aluminum mono core 7.4 ounces threaded 1/2-28 I've gotten it out at a couple of events and it sounds great. I haven't gotten aroun...

I guess I've negleted taking pictures of a couple of projects from earlier this year. My big .338 can worked so well with stepped cones I figured I would play it safe and use them again. This one is an 8" long all stainless .30 cal can with stepped cone baffles and threaded end caps. Stainless ...

I would try a ladder test and work up a new load with the can on. You may have affected the barrel harmonics enough that it just won't shoot your present load any more. All of my rifles shot fine with and without the can, but I've heard of others having problems like yours. Is there any chance you c...

Here's a Lone Wolf barrel for a Glock 17 and comp that need a home. Barrel is threaded 1/2-28.

SPF $105 shipped PP gift, money order, trades

I didn't really think the .40 was that evil to warrant stainless, but won't be a problem. I figure the 1 3/4" diameter should make things a little more forgiving. The monocore idea popped up basically because I just got a mill and so now I can. I was afraid that if I went with Ks I wouldn't be ...

My plan is to make it 1 3/4" O.D. and 6" long. I probably should have gone 8", but the form 1 is approved, so here we go. It will be used for a .40 carbine, 9mm carbine and sub-sonic centerfire rifles. The baffles are where I'm stuck. I'm thinking all aluminum except for a thread inse...

SAS makes a similar brake mount. Their list price is $125, but I remember them being sold for $75 somewhere a couple months ago.
http://www.suppressedarmament.com/762-s ... nless.html

Barrel length has nothing to do with accuracy. Look at XP100, TC Contenders, and such. Using factory ammo might be less than idean depending on how short you are going to go. I'd use a hack saw instead of a grinder. It's not hard to make a spyder (or cat head) if your barrel is long enough to use it...

Looks good. What does it weigh?

What would be a better baffle for a .40 can? Stepped cones? Is the high pressure the issue for building a can for the .40S&W?

there is a better than great chance another 300 win mag can will be made from ti and inconel or hastelloy. checking on materials prices now. Please share that info if you find a good supplier. I'm submitting another form 1 for a .30 cal can with hopes of building a lightweight can for up to .308. M...

Let's here what you have to say about cutting internal threads??? That's probably as important to this forum as anything.

What color is that? It looks extremely flat as in it was drying before it hit the metal? It it a smooth finish? Duracoat takes 30 days to fully cure. I had a Glock slide that I wanted to remove the Duracoat from and it ended up needing blasted. Sand paper was not getting me anywhere. One company had...