SilencerTalk

I just put 30 cal on mine, but doesn't really matter. If you're diamond drag engraving, 30 cal is much easier stencils to trace

147gr ACME flat point bullets. They're coated cast. I can remove suppressor and immediately go back to good groups, so I think issue is in the can. Just weird. And can only tell it at 50 yds. Not bad enough to miss steel targets at 10-12 yds, smallest is 6" though so would take a lot to miss at that...

My 9mm is Ti tube & endcaps, 7075 K's. I *thought* it has been good to go all this time....nice sound & just fine running on a Beretta 92 at typical pistol distances ....~10 yds. Got a CZ scorpion & it sounds great there too. But now I'm shooting at 50 yds & notice after about 10 shots my accy goes ...

Never tried but remember reading in the past it made a mess. Have you tried anti-seize on the barrel threads? I end up with issue that tightening down a direct thread suppressor, the encap wants to stick to the barrel threads more than the tube & instead of removing suppressor, it wants to disassemb...

I'm in NC and visit family in PA, friends in TN. If i want to take an SBR and/or suppressors to either, I'm supposed to submit the 5320.20 or only if I'm permanently moving those items there? If it is required/good practice to do that for a visit, do i need to wait for an approved form back or just ...

Hmmmmm....seemed like a good idea. I have 1020 tube & 4130 chromemoly round stock in the same sizes so could I stick those with something like a 3/32 6011? Or is it just the wrong process no matter what for thin walled tube? I don't really care about pretty and being a novice don't expect pretty. Ju...

You'd know that indicating it in 4-jaw. Gets down to almost no runout, move dial indicator back on piece a few inches and now there's runout. If no matter what there's runout when measuring a few inches apart your stock is out of round. If you have the needle type dial indicator vs the plunger type ...

I'd still find where the issue is. .060" is a safety margin, not min clearance to work. Even if baffles have same bore size and bullet clears everything, being so far off center thru the suppressor bore is likely to play hell with accy. Again....ask me how I know..... :) Maybe not every single insta...

https://makezine.com/projects/skill-builder-finding-the-center/ You can do this to find center on each one. Mark it, then use a spring loaded center punch to put a dimple dead nuts in the center. Then clamp your cone down to the table (will need a fixture) and use a a tiny (like 1/8" body diameter) ...

I'd do a P or 21/64 size. .060" over. That's just me, some would go tighter. There is very little gain going as tight as possible on bore size all else equal and 6.5CM is still going to be loud. I've never seen published subsonic load data for it but if you were planning to work down a light trailbo...

.....What happens if I buy an extra part to verify my limit machining skills.... You're buying parts or you're machining parts? Regardless, if you tear something up while making, scrap that piece and carry on. You complete the whole thing and decide it doesn't perform like you think it should, you ...

You said in a previous thread you're making a .308WIN can & using 17-4 internals. Aluminum of any sort should be 0% of that build. Any suitable material for your tube will not be marked with punch & hammer lettering. Recommend you find a shop local & have them do it. Even a trophy shop probably can....

Have access to a smallish stick welder - a 120amp that runs off 110V plug. Have a can I'd like to weld with it. Since I know about nothing, have 2 big questions for now. #1 1/8" or 3/32" 319L rod is what I think I should use. Endcap is 416 & tube is 316L stainless. #2 I'm not sure exactly how the we...

an 11/32" aircraft extension drill will give you a close approximation w/o buying drill rod. snip... I have a Griffen style taper mount I made from 17-4 for the brake mount. I made the endcaps and threaded the tube myself. You did all these with your 4 jaw chuck and indicated the work every time? Al...

Interesting. More & closer than 5/8? Like 10 @ 1/2"?

Pat, hope you're doing well! I think I still have a tool I need to return to you....a couple years late

Hi all, been a while! :) Doing another .223 can & would like some input. Plan is 1.625" OD, 0.065" wall, 1.495" ID 316 seamless tube, 7" OAL. 60° cones of 416, 0.060" thick Spacers 304 welded tube, 1.500" OD, 0.065" wall turned down to 1.490" OD leaving 0.060" wall Direct thread 1/2-28 0.281" bore (...

Feel free to copy what you want from mine: http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=136120 Video in that thread somewhere comparing to a commercial can. It is very good on 300BLK for as simple as it is. My sub load data. Both are very accurate and cycle carbine gas AR all day long supp...

I read here over and over .005" clearance. And that's what I did for my first several. And they are a bear to get the guts out after just a moderate amount of shooting. (all might be that way...I have no idea since I only own my form1 stuff and not commercial suppressors). So on one build I decided ...

I use 17/64", but am not drilling freeze plugs with a cordless drill. So depending on how uniform the FPs are, how well they fit the tube, how precisely you can measure center, how accurately you can drill center, etc should increase your fudge factor from that min diameter. I had accuracy issues wi...

For cerakote, what you are describing will work fine. I cerakote, then engrave often to make the engraving standout or be blackened for a neat look. The issue you will have is creating bad wear areas. While I really like cerakote my one major gripe with it - or a lot of finishes - is that it wears p...

I get that too. If I watch when the threading tool engages I can see the toolpost rock back a little. I don't get that with any other operation - or at least to a degree where it affects dimensions along the part. Only threading. To 'fix' it, my QCTP handle is to the left when tool is locked in - at...

http://imageshack.com/a/img924/1687/CNvLKG.jpg So rifle build went a different direction. this will be primarily a 5.56 can that will sometimes see a 308 and eventually ill build a blackout upper. Made some changes to the design im also thinking ill weld the back suppressor cap and have the front o...

Cmv, his spacing, clipping, and porting all seem to resemble the Sig silencers. Are they poor performers on 300Blk hosts? Clips should be aligned and baffles need more ports, but I agree; it resembles the Sig srd762ti No idea since I've never had one. I do know that for 1.5" OD, 8" OAL that looks l...

What did you knurl the endcaps with? That pattern looks interesting. I have tools that do straight ridges or diamond pattern but haven't seen the dots. Hold off clipping the cones. You might find that you're perfectly pleased with its performance w/o clipping. You can always go back and do that late...

What is baffle spacing? Those look WAY too close together for 30 cal. .600 - .700 neighborhood is a good place to be. .625 - .650 is good distance if 300BLK subs are your primary application. Why the tiny port in side of cone? Is that all cones or just first? Regardless, I don't think you want that ...