I made one from a nylon spacer I got at Lowe's. I found a dull drill bit I had that fit the hole perfectly and Dremeled that down to fit. I've had the thing out of the gun several times and, from the look of it, I could probably have just used the spacer alone. There is not much in the way of wear o...

WR,

How would you calculate the 5/6 stripped gas volume to know when to open the baffle mouths?

You seem to really know a lot about this stuff. How did you get the knowledge?

Thanks for sharing!

Tony S.

So this washer is actually an AR15 crush washer, huh? Regardless of why such a thing is needed in the first place if the shoulder of the barrel is square to the threads and they are concentric to the bore, more moving things around on my end still comes back to the washer on the rifle. On my M&P...

Byrd, You're right! My opening statement there was far to final. I don't quite understand what you're saying about the length of the whole thing. If the shoulder is square, then it shouldn't matter how long the threads are as long as I can screw the can all the way to the shoulder (which I can), rig...

This will be the final post in the subject here. It is, definitely, the shoulder of the barrel not being square to the threads. I just got back from the range and I tried a number of different things and they all led to the same place. If the washer that came with the gun is not installed like this:...

I believe that to be the case also. However, I have a few more tests planned just to be sure that it isn't something else. If I find anything out that isn't the bad shoulder, I'll post it. If the thread goes into oblivion, then that's what it was. Thanks for all the help and ideas!! Made for what I'...

Cap't, Bingo!!! The backside of the washer is cut with a concave conical shape that would force the washer to "true up" the face of the shoulder. So if I were to take flat washers and set them to the same thickness I'd be right back where I was before. Cap't - brilliant long range analysis...

Mystery not solved but problem fixed. I went to the range today equipped with every tool I could think of end every possible thing I could need to fix the POI issue with the suppressor. I first shot the rifle and verified the POA and POI were aligned with both Remington T-Bolt and Gemtech subsonic a...

OK, Capt.! Kind of like my theory with the sharp corners. I'll be leaving Pittsburgh tomorrow for a 2 day trip to Fort Lauderdale. When I get back I'll do this: 1. The can as it was today goes back on with a washer to change the rotational position. If it tracks and moves I'll add another washer. If...

I can kiss that PhD goodbye. The bigger hole allowed the deflection to reduce in magnitude but it was still there. Once again, no evidence of strikes anywhere that I can see. That led me to check the can vs. the barrel and - bingo - I'm not dead centered. The offset is small, really small but it's t...

I know it sound funny but it's a "last act of a desperate man" kind of thing". I agree that one would think that the K baffle itself would be enough to send the bullets tumbling but apparently it doesn't. It's just something about those sharp hex corners that has me all agitated. Any ...

Thanks. I don't have access. To any kind of laser stuff. That is a great idea. however. I have had every baffle under a 5x magnifier and I can not see any evidence at all of a baffle strike. The carbon build up on the face of each baffle is uniform with no kind of little disruptions in the surface. ...

I'm the same guy who asked for critiques on my K baffles. I realize there are many, many variables at play here but let me lay out my situation. I had my first opportunity to take my suppressor to the range today and had it on my Ruger 10/22. The Ruger was sighted in and put on target. The suppresso...

I think the only way is to start over. I'll have time to learn the new 7x12 lathe. Is the electronic filing that I've heard about here available to individuals? I do have another question. When you talk about using the ball mill and plunging into the K, do you plunge it in from the outside of the sk...

I tried the lathe thread tapping on the old lathe but I never did have much success with it. That tap is pretty big and the 109 was pretty small. The chuck was a small Sherline and I had no steady rest so there was no way for me hold the tube steady. I have a 7 x 12 now and am teaching myself how to...

No. I had a nice lady at work do the engraving on a machine . I tried myself with a Dremel (there I go with that again) and one of the engraving tips but it looked like absolute garbage. Regarding my screw-in front gizmo, if you size things right, the die holder comes out flush with the end of the t...

E45,

I lurked here for a year before I got the gumption up to get the F1 and begin asking questions. Even though what I have here may be somewhat sub-optimal, it is pretty darn quiet. Even with high velocity 22, the down range crack is the loudest thing you hear.

Tony S.

Ignore the craptastic finish on the tube. It was an experiment gone horribly bad. So I had my old lathe and I couldn't cut threads so I was stuck with using taps and dies to do any threading. The lathe is obviously necessary for drilling and boring to keep holes concentric and the 1/2-28 threads for...

Bender, I sure did learn a lot! I can still modify these right? For example, one of the ideas was to get a more aggressive cut on the scoop. That I could do. I could probably even maybe find some way to close up the cone hole a bit. JBWeld maybe? Thanks again for all the tips. The thing does sound p...

Thanks for all of the tips! Historian - Yep, that's the old girl. I didn't have the change gears on mine - just the pulleys and the hand crank. I did mis-align the scoops and the cone holes. I had a hard time holding the baffle and using the Dremel to cut the scoop. I had a dater hole in the first b...

Do you mean the hole in the cone? Because I was thinking the same thing. The bore through is 0.280".

Tony S.

Finally assembled the Fi 22 cal suppressor and to my ears it sounds pretty good. It's on a S&W M&P 22 and the bullet hitting the target at about 15 yards is louder than the shot. I made these on the old Sears 109 lathe. I have 8 of them in a 6.8" l x 1" OD x 0.84" ID Al tube. ...

Probably correct. In terms of shooting, some days I'm Bob Lee Swagger, other days I am, for lack of a better analogy, Lucille Ball - drunk. If I can figure out the problem there, I'll be happy!

Thanks!

Tony S.

Sounds like my idea wasn't such one. I'm going pretty slow but when I drop the lever to engage the drive, I don't get a clean engagement. Maybe I need to work on the half-nut adjustment. I'll keep practicing.

Thanks for all the advice!

Tony S.

Thanks! I'm going to practice on some PVC pipe. I was having some trouble hitting the half nuts just right on the thread dial. I was always about a half count off.

Tony S.