This has always been one of my favorite builds on here. The “tube” design is something I’ve been wanting to do, Since it’s bigger that I normally work with, I’ve been waiting on a paying job to come in so I can justify purchasing the drill and boring bar.

Capt. Link. wrote:Anyone have a source for 17-4 PH 900-1150 so I don't need to fire up the oven for a single stick.

https://www.mcmaster.com/1141t33

John A. wrote:I retired as a lineman supervisor. And I still own a lot of equipment. Even though I rarely use any of them these days.

But who knows when I'll need to change the bulb in my street light in my back yard? Least I can if I needed to.

But do you have a bucket truck in your garage?

For muzzle threads where the customer needs to be able to attach anything, I am threading to a spec, which with my machinery, I am able to hold the PD in a tight spec where 3A and 3B overlap I am not sure why suppressor manufacturers in NZ don't thread to a spec. Seems a bit odd to me, if not flat o...

Drilling a hole is 100% the wrong way of making a bullet passage in a baffle. Bore the hole so its round and concentric to the centerline.If you must use a drill bit spin the work-piece in a four jaw for precision followed by a reamer. I only mention this so more people will have success in buildin...

Are you looking to make 100 a day or 100 a year? That would be the deciding factor on what machine(s) to use.

I'm working on a permanently attached 1.625" diameter, 10.625" suppressor for a 5.5" barreled 9mm AR. I started with 316 stainless because that's what I had laying around. I am planning on 7075T6 internals. After machining the end caps and tube, I decided it is way too heavy. I am goi...

Picture of your setup would help.

i will be designing the suppressor. i would simply be using a tool(cnc machine) of theirs to make the suppressor, this isnt illegal. plenty of others have done this, used cnc machine shops with form 1s, and it was perfectly fine. I mean no offense but based on your quote below, I don't think you're...

i will be designing the suppressor. i would simply be using a tool(cnc machine) of theirs to make the suppressor, this isnt illegal. plenty of others have done this, used cnc machine shops with form 1s, and it was perfectly fine. I mean no offense but based on your quote below, I don't think you're...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/300sniper/cnc/8536C063-7ED9-4FF9-9112-8A5A49D7D497_zpsaxmiwklo.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/300sniper/cnc/FFA42A58-47D4-424E-9485-D603407F7CA4_zpstnqocld1.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/300sniper/cnc/9BA06E1F-D1AC-4C34-B6B1-E886D3B3B5...

If a licenced manufacturer does the work and the serialized outer tube remains the same, then no additional tax must be paid. If you do the work yourself, each part you make will require a Form 1 and $200 tax. I suppose a guy could get away with legally re-coring a can with only one tax stamp if he...

This is a copy/paste of a post on this topic I made on another forum: This is the stuff next to me all the time in the shop. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/300sniper/cnc/81125065-5D7D-4136-B5AA-84EC84B84704_zps8dpzczvw.jpg Caliper: B&S 599-579-4. This is nice, but I have to admit I liked...

I'm a firm believer that if the ATF kicks in your door to check if you re-welded the endcap on your F1 suppressor, you were already in some serious s--t.

T-Rex wrote:

300sniper wrote: I think I'd use filler.

If you're going to sleeve over, I'm not sure I'd use a filler. Just because you'd have to turn it down again. The outer sleeve, w/ filler, would make it a superior joint.

What type of SS is this?

Sleeving over, I'd agree.

I wouldn't think twice about parting it off, beveling each side being sure to remove every bit of carbon and TIGing it back together. I'm not familiar w/ the details, but I wouldn't bevel the parts. I always fit thin-wall tubing to a tight, square, buttweld. Back purge and TIG away. Should be a com...

I wouldn't think twice about parting it off, beveling each side being sure to remove every bit of carbon and TIGing it back together.

Pretty work. :) Have you thought of making inert rds in other sizes? I have quite a collection. My dad brought home 20mm and 30mm GAU rds from work in the '80s. But we haven't had them since the '90s. :( 24.58mm is an odd size. Maybe you could make some inert .995 JDJ or other cartridge just for di...

Pretty work. :) Have you thought of making inert rds in other sizes? I have quite a collection. My dad brought home 20mm and 30mm GAU rds from work in the '80s. But we haven't had them since the '90s. :( 24.58mm is an odd size. Maybe you could make some inert .995 JDJ or other cartridge just for di...

Making some .968" X 5.something paper weight bullets. Had to make some quick n dirty mods to keep the long parts from getting dinged up on neighboring tool holders. http://youtu.be/B3FQmbtuicg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/300sniper/cnc/102AAA2F-4D3E-42C5-A2C6-69A03B729F68_zpsdrxgllac....

I'm thinking if you had to do this, it would be best to make the end caps fit over the tube instead of inside. At least this way the expansion from pressure and heat would be working in your favor. I'm not looking any of this up now so it's pretty much coming out my ass, but say your end cap is .003...

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The table on that mill makes me sad.

If you are having clearance problems 1.5" from the muzzle with a brake .030" over the bullet diameter, you have other serious issues that need to be corrected.

I still feed at 30 degrees on the turning center. It doesn't take any longer to program.