1) I don't have a ton of experience machining, Thank you all! The De Lisle is a very complicated build and is a challenge to those with a lot of gunsmith experience. The Enfield action will need a lot of modification, you will need to build or modify an existing magazine for it and the suppressor i...

Welcome FIghterjet1995 and thank you for not just the good information but recalling a past post with the names of former members 'long gone'. Pleasant reminder, felt like WW2 vet neighbor who every five years would vacation with his wife and a remaining few friends to Normandy France to see where ...

Anyway. If you get some time and can find a small quantity, while not on the level of high Nickel alloys, in any blend, I'd like you to make a single suppressor (of the C350) and give her a little test :wink: . T-Rex The maraging steels have some amazing properties, high strength & hardness wit...

Snip But 17-4 is my go to for the extreme majority of parts due to the ease of achieving high surface finish quality, the simple heat treatment and it's excellent dimensional stability with tempering while still having high mechanical properties. I wish it got harder than it does, but 40 Rc isn't t...

The strength difference for 304 vs 316 is not much at room temp but does become significant at elevated temps. http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=130987 Seamless 316 is ~ 2x the cost of 304 so there is a cost factor. The typical 223/308 can with a wall thickness of 0.065 in i...

@ricsmall "Wall thickness will be .065” in forward section with baffles, and I’m thinking .100” in blast chamber." Based on the yield strength of 17-4 your wall thickness is way over what is needed for even a magnum rifle cartridge. I would cut those numbers in half for your intended use. ...

Threading tubes seems to be the default option for F1 builders. I realized early that this weakens the tube and decided to silver solder my F1 cans. High temp/strength silver solder (~50% silver content) is easy to do and allows for use of thinner tubes. The major drawback is it's very difficult to ...

I use carbide for turning, and yes I have a bunch of inserts missing chips so I hear ya. ECCO, the tool you listed seems to be a 1" shank. I have an AXA toolpost, max clamping is about 1/2" so maybe something like this would be better... http://www.shars.com/products/indexable-cutting/thr...

I am grinding my own HSS threading bit...need to work on it as it is cutting pretty ragged threads at the moment. Getting a good flat edge on a tip that small is...fun... If you're going to be doing any significant amount of external threading, save yourself a lot of time and aggravation: https://w...

Since a muzzle brake is not a silencer part you are free to try as many designs as you wish. I too wanted to incorporate a cone design when I did my form 1s but the actual machining is near impossible on manual machines. One possible approach would be to make the brake modular*. That accomplishes tw...

I can cut much faster with an annular cutter that any single point trepanning tool.

Reviewing related YouTube presentations on cutter a thought came to mind. Could these be used to facilitate the machining of a mono-core? Beginning holes initially cut out using a small diameter bit and then milling out facilitated? Yes they are preferred for drilling holes larger than ~1/2 inch. M...

annular cutters work very well however split round hss or carbide blanks can be ground in just a few seconds and are many times more versatile (ie more diameters from the same tool ) edit : to grind tool simply grind off half of the split portion so you are left with a 1/4 pie shaped piece (with ju...

For me the most onerous machining step in making a can is hollowing out the rear cap where the barrel is attached. It reduces the weight significantly but it is a slow process of either trepanning a circular slot or drilling a bunch of holes. Traditional trepanning uses a 'single point' tool ground ...

I have not been able to find a source for 17-4 tube in quantities any less than a mill run of several thousand pounds, and I've spent a great deal of time searching. Snip Same here Andy. Many places have an impressive listing of size/wall thickness of 17-4 seamless but only sell in big lots. Given ...

Anyone have a source for 17-4 seamless tubing or pipe? Several members with SOT's have offered to sell other members small quantities. I'm not going to call them out, because I don't know if it was a forever offer, but I'm sure a small search could prove fruitful. I know one SOT member here that sw...

Ti: light, expensive, difficult For the tube your only good options are Ti and 4130, unless you go tubeless or make a tube from solid bar. 4000 series chromoly steels are not the strongest unless you use a low temper, and even then it only has a higher UTS than 17-4, but still a lower yield strengt...

Hot gasses interact directly with the throat area of a rifle barrel with a lot more heat and pressure than we see in a suppressor. I agree though, 17-4 is a better material for suppressors. It's also a better material for barrels, by the way. In both cases, 17-4 is more wear resistant and 416 is ea...

Appears to be from a baffle strike. I don't believe those baffles were like that, for the life of ghe can, then one day they weren't. Not passing judgement, baffle strikes happen, but this is my opinion. The key to what happened is in the first baffle. If you look closely at the od it is not round ...

From a design point the omega style would be stronger than a K baffle on a weight for weight basis. The reason is the K has a very high stress point at the narrow part of the skirt. Not a lot of metal there to support all of the stack pressure. The omega is a 'tube within a tube' design where all of...

17-4 SS is the easiest metal I know to heat treat. Take your finished part heat to 900F for 1 hour then air cool. Result is a tensile strength around 200,000 PSI and a Rc of ~42. It does not warp in heat treat but it does shrink ~ 0.001in per 1inch web. No need to protect it from the air, the parts ...

fishman wrote:

Rich V wrote:I have heard the "no dip for Ti alloys" stated many times but in my experience with Ti Ks in a rimfire can the dip has no affect after many overnight soakings.

What alloy of titanium? Grades 1-4 have no aluminum in them.

Grade 5 (Ti-6Al-4V).

I can't help on the bolt/spring question but I have to ask do you have problems with standard or sub velocity ammo? My 10/22 with a 10 in barrel runs CCI standard & sub ammo reliably and they are very quiet.

OK.....so what is the "DIP"? Hydrogen peroxide mixed with vinegar. It will dissolve lead and aluminum ( titanium alloys have aluminum so no dippping Ti ) the byproduct is lead acetate, an extremely toxic chemical, don't touch it. You need to dispose of it at a hazmat disposal place. And s...

9zeta wrote:From a machine shop in Manila...my hometown.

Are you sure it is 613 SS and not 316 SS? 613 SS (17-7) is a precipitation hardening SS that is expensive and uncommon in tubing form.