SilencerTalk

@ECCO Machine
This is the best I found, w/ a limited search.

I had to look the X15 up, but unless you can guarantee a full heat treat (quite extensive cycle for this metal), 17-4 will be stronger. Also, from what I read, 17-4 looks to be easier to machine, if that's a prerequisite. Are you getting the X15 for free? If not, I can almost guarantee that 17-4 wil...

Yeah, I'd stick w/ the 60deg cones. You'll be hard pressed to mess up a build w/ them.
K's work, too, but can be finicky in their design and execution.
The Omega baffles, pictured above, take a bit of tuning as well. Not something for the novice, IMHO.

Just get a regular kit of 60deg cones. Try to get 8-12 baffles in it. If you have to cut the skirts, so be it. Give them all a single or double clip and call it a day. It's that easy.

Plenty of reputable engravers, for this type of thing, are around. But, w/o knowing your locale, I can't say shipping will make them the cheapest. As the good Cpt pointed out, go to some trophy shops. No need to divulge it's for a firearm, even if they ask. I do the electro-etch, at home, and it wor...

Hmm I haven't heard or read anything, regarding anything even close to that. But, back to the design. No, I don't think that giant bore would do well for 22lr, w/ or w/o a wipe. The G-core does a decent job, but not better than 60deg cones in the same size design. The Chinese copy may be close, but ...

Someone, on another forum, bought one of those monocores, which resembles the G-core. The bore was something like 7/16". Not promising for a 22lr.

Honestly, this is a pretty decent deal and you can buy additional cups for a reasonable price.

9x39 project by John A.

30cal Integral Bolt Rifle by T-Rex

Hmm. I've used the mesh on several projects and find it very helpful. Not a noticeable sound reduction, but, as I said, dissipates heat and aides in cleaning. The crud doesn't stick to the interior of the tube, as much, and makes it easier to slide a tube off. Throw the mesh in a small, plastic, tub...

a_canadian wrote: ↑

Thu Jan 02, 2020 11:06 pm

.

You should try using some copper mesh, in the OTB section. It will not only help disperse heat, but aid in the cleaning process.

Glad to hear it, John.
Knew the edge would wear down, after a while.

Single clips, aligned, and you've got a SiCo Saker ASR 762


Top one is the older Saker

That's a large amount of volume so I don't see it not working. However, you don't need that overkill. Today's 50cal xans are much smaller than years past. A 2.5x16 would do fine. Maybe 5 baffles, progressively spaced, should do ya. Try to keep it under 2 kilos.

File your form 1, now, and design while you wait.
Are your making the brake and mount?
If so, a good option would be to put the taper lock ahead of the threads. Helps keep carbon out of them.

You're going to want something a bit bigger, especially for 300WM. It'll be best suited closer to 1.75x10. What is the distance from muzzle brake to first baffle tip? What is your plan for clipping? Your tubing is seamless? .095 will be thicker than needed, after about the second baffle. I'd use a l...

John A. wrote: ↑

Mon Dec 16, 2019 11:34 am

Unless someone has a .364" swage or starts making 9x39 specific bullets.

I'm disappointed, John.
You have a lathe:
Get some tool steel
Bore it .364
Externally thread it 7/8-14
Make a punch tool
Harden and polish
Done.

Yeah, I'd keep shooting it (maybe 100 rounds) and see if it lessens.

If you had to open the ports, you can always open the DI gas port a bit, too.

If the porting is working, in relation to gas flow, I'd fire a bunch more rounds and see if that cleans the edge of the hole up a bit. As far as drilling on an angle, you want the end of the drill bit, that goes into the chuck, closer to the breech. The hole, essentially, would be pointed towards th...

How many rounds have you put through the barrel, after drilling? What's the shaving's size and quantity look like, as you continue to shoot? Are they diminishing? I would think enlarging the hole would exacerbate the issue. You'd be offering a greater cutting edge to be exposed to the jacket.Ideally...

Why not buy a tube that has more common dimensions? You can always sell your's in the classifieds. Seems like a much better option, considering the availability of parts.

The hole in the baffle face is usually held for the blast baffle. The asymmetrical waist vent is used for the typical K, to push gas into the coaxial chamber formed from the K design.

As for "better" designs, everything has it's place. What specific caliber and host did you have in mind?

You can buy the solvent cones and cups for ~$20/ea. I'm not sure those turbines are going to be as cheap or that they'll perform any where near what you're envisioning, with or without holes drilled in them. I don't see those blades forcing the gas to the outer wall anymore than a cone feature or ke...

I don't see how you expect this to perform beyond the abilities of the base structure, being a radial baffle. As I'm sure you're aware, those fins would be rotated, at high rpm, to compress a gas and force it into a tunnel. This is exactly the opposite of what you're trying to accomplish with a supp...

EastTxHorn wrote: ↑

Wed Dec 04, 2019 10:57 pm

I'm looking for 1.625 tube and end cap. Any suggestions? DM is out and has been.

http://form1suppressor.boards.net/thread/4158/solvent-trap-companies-updated-list