SilencerTalk

T-Rex wrote: ↑

Fri Jun 19, 2020 7:29 am

While you can, you need to be careful not to damage the tube wall. A close fitting mandrel should be used.

This is what I do - stamp with a close fitting mandrel inside.

Good review - thanks! These honestly sound too good to be true, so I keep watching for more 3rd party reviews before I commit.

Very nice!

I'm not too far behind you on this project, so please post a report once you've tried it out. Have you decided on a thread pitch yet?

No help here, but I'm following to learn something. A pistol can is lilely my next project, and I need to decode the black magic of boosters.

viewtopic.php?t=138952

22cal SS rimfire can with AAC style K baffles by Matt in TN.

viewtopic.php?f=10&t=156481

30 cal form 1, titanium tube and SS machined parts. Clipped 60 degree cones. By Matt in TN.

ECCO Machine wrote: ↑

Fri Dec 20, 2019 8:39 pm

... the 5" 3 jaw I trued to the spindle.

Can you expand on this a little? How did you do this, and how repeatable are the results? 0.010" tolerance, or 0.001" tolerance?

It never occurred to me that this was even possible!

Good stuff - thanks for taking the time to post!

So I finally got around to testing some of my stock. The good news is that everything I have marked 17-4 is magnetic. And everything I have marked 316 or 3xx is nonmagnetic.

But the 416 is also magnetic.

Any other tips for how a layperson can tell all these apart?

Wow - good information, thanks! Especially the part about a simple magnet test.

All I've seen in the past to tell dofferent steels apart is to grind them and see what color the sparks are. That's pretty subjective and has been tough for me to learn on my own.

Looks great! What's the primary use/caliber?

I haven't heard from Curtis in the longest time hope he is well.I would still be surprised if a clip would yield 5 db but haven't the meter any longer to make measurements. While it made virtually no difference on rifles, Clipping at all made no difference on rifles, or changing from the crescent c...

I would also try to move the core towards the muzzle to tune! Not sure I understand what you're saying here. Do you mean cut the skirt on the front endcap down and add spacers between the rear end cap and rhe blast baffle to move the whole baffle stack forward? And how does that "tune" anything? Do...

My bad - it was curtistactical: " I started with an all cone 30cal suppressor with no clips and 8 cone baffles, next I put the radius scoop in, lastly I cut them .125" deep to center of the bore. I tested this using 308 200gr subs and 308 175gr supers. With both loads the .125" to cl cut was around...

I would line up all the clips......You might benefit from base porting of the cones as well.I would also try to move the core towards the muzzle to tune! Have you tried heavy subsonics : 230gr SMK @ 900-950fps accurate,powerful,quiet. That UMC load was a 230gr bullet, but I haven't started handload...

My bad - it was curtistactical: " I started with an all cone 30cal suppressor with no clips and 8 cone baffles, next I put the radius scoop in, lastly I cut them .125" deep to center of the bore. I tested this using 308 200gr subs and 308 175gr supers. With both loads the .125" to cl cut was around ...

416 must be heated to a cherry red to prevent annoying surface rust.This basic heating can be done on the stove top w/ no need for quenching.A full heat treatment would be even better! I love using it because it cuts so nice! I'm a asymmetric baffle devotee, but would switch if a simple port in a c...

Looks good. Hope the crescent clips work out for you, I did not have good luck with them in subsonic or supersonic applications across multiple calibers. I would strongly recommend heat treating your parts, especially the 416 bits. In the annealed state, 416 is softer & weaker than 304. Dangit, man...

Spacers were easier to make/buy separately, lighter (titanium spacers were thin and cheap), and took less material overall. Cutting them as part of the cone would have made for a simpler assembly and probably better in the end, but I went with "easier to machine" as it's a centerfire can and I don't...

Thank you, sir! That little gnome made his first appearance at a "Run N Gun" we put on for the 5th Special Forces Group a couple years ago. You ran 3.2 miles through the woods while carrying your rifle, pistol, and all your ammo - stopping to shoot 5 different stages along the way. The gnome was sta...

And here's the test video. No fancy mics or cameras - just a simple iPhone and iPad. But hopefully it gives you an idea of the sound. It has more FRP than I'd like, but I think that was necessary to make the blast chamber big enough to handle supers and .308 as well. Everything is a trade-off. Overa...

Cutting alignment tabs in the titanium spacers: https://i.imgur.com/N27Xglr.jpg Here's everything but the front end cap: https://i.imgur.com/eiWdCIq.jpg Cutting kidney-shaped relief cuts in the inside of the front end cap with a rotary table: https://i.imgur.com/xfuGrcf.jpg Front end cap, baffle sta...

With a lot of help and advice from many here, I just finished my second form 1. This was primarily for 300BLK subs, but I wanted it to do OK with supers and .308 as well. Titanium tube and spacers came from Diversified Machine. End caps and baffles were made from 17-4 and a little 416 (when I ran ou...

Thanks - good advice. The heat is definitely something I'm trying to avoid and something I'd classify as a mistake. But mistakes are where I learn the most. :? I ran out of 17-4 so I switched to 416 for the last 3 baffles as I didn't need the strength that far out. It's been awhile since I cut 416, ...