Ekacpuc wrote: ↑Fri Jul 03, 2020 11:50 pm Old thread but I’m answering anyways. Be careful welding stainless, make sure the alloy can be welded and if using different alloys use 309 rod (1/16” if you can find).

I'm big fan of 312 rod. Its stronger and works better for higher end SS like 17-4.

Definitely do not use a 110v stick welder. If you can get your hands a 110v Tig machine, like one from harbor freight which is what I used on my 50 cal can, would be way better. Even mig would be better. Stick will burn right through thin stuff.

I had to overbore my can cuz of a baffle strike the other day, but I am pleasantly surprised to say it had no effect on sound reduction. With subsonic loads, I couldn't even hear it over the other shots at the indoor range, and with regular loads it was still the quietest thing on the range! I prett...

There's no time limit for completion.

50 BMG special purpose can.

https://imgur.com/a/BcEbpVt

I'm a little late on this one, but what powders will work? Red dot is shot she'll powder right? Would hodgdon work?

I finally got my form 1 done yesterday!

Form 1 done https://imgur.com/a/BcEbpVt

Finally got my can tacked up and should have it finished by the weekend, if not tomorrow. The angle isn't great, but it's just under 20". Form 1 https://imgur.com/a/OvepE1F I know it's a goofy design and may not work great, but that's ok. My theory is that by having the baffle stack in a smalle...

From what I've heard, and I could be wrong, it's just a change of address with the ATF.

T-Rex wrote: ↑Sun May 17, 2020 9:08 am Your design doesn't require a blast spacer, correct?
Regardless, I highly doubt you'll fire enough rounds through this suppressor to do detrimental damage to 1/8" thk steel. Especially since it's not seeing a direct blast front.

Blast spacer? I'm still going to have a blast baffle.

IMHO, you've just negated the brake porting. The brake would have diffused the blast much better than those slits. What you've done is refocused the blast stream. If you were worried about gas eroding the tube interior, this would be more detrimental than the open brake. Get rid of that shield enti...

I'm trying to figure out the best way to do the baffles. The end baffle is already welded in cuz I knew for sure that's where it was going. The rest of them I'm not so sure about. I got a total of 10 freeze plugs I can make into baffles, including the one already welded in. There's an 11th I'm makin...

Just finished up on the inconel blast diffuser. I thought I'd go a little unconventional. I know brakes can erode the sides of the can, and I thought this might help reduce that. Let me know what you guys think!

Diffuser https://imgur.com/a/z0GhOaw

I'm still building mine cuz I just got my stamp yesterday. It's a QD can, but the mount isn't drawn. Don't judge my art skills

https://imgur.com/a/sLO6bjC

Yes, sorry. ID was intended, instead of OD. Still, pretty small. What's the overlap, of the 2 tubes? You don't typically fill a 50BMG suppressor w/ baffles. Plug welding will eliminate need for spacers, saving weight. It'll probably be 4-6". This is how I'm thinking of doing the baffles https:...

No reason to go so large, with plug hole. Do 6 or 8 1/8" plugs. Larger holes = more heat. 1.81 OD is EXTREMELY small for 50BMG. It has a 1.80 ID and 2"OD, but that's just the tube that holds the baffles. It recesses into a 3" OD tube. Both tubes are 12" long. It's a coaxial hybr...

Alright, so I got my tax stamp, and I'm trying to figure out how to plug weld the freeze plug baffles. Yes, I know, not great for 50 cal, but they work for my design https://imgur.com/a/x2SSH1x . The tube is 2" od, 1.80 id. I'm thinking 4 counter sunk 1/4" holes should work. Opinions?

As promised, and update with pics of the (almost) finished mount. Almost because I ran out of welding gas.

Tacked up mount https://imgur.com/a/rN45sE6

I just finished up some welding on the QD mount, an I'm wondering if I should drill holes in the inconel tube or just cut it off. I pressed and pinned the tube into a 304 SS flange, along with a short piece of inconel exhaust pipe to prevent erosion, with the thicker tube acting as a seat for the mu...

Spiral spring baffles ARE WAY old tech. I don't think anybody uses the design anymore.

That thing is gonna weigh about 20 pounds using so much heavy wall carbon steel tube. If I were making it, I would go tubeless using 2.5" 17-4 H900 with .100" WT in the blast chamber and .065" from there forward. Barrett's qdl is made from 4130, and not all of us have machining equip...

I'm still waiting on the 2.75, .25 tube. I have been pondering how to keep weight down as the .250 tube will be heavy. I will likely just us it for the blast chamber and for bushings to weld the washers and freeze plugs directly to the 3" outer tube. I will try and assemble a few sketches over...

I'm doing a hybrid coaxial can using 1.80 dia freeze plugs.

http://imgur.com/a/smOEqEh

I'm still working on the spacing, and I may need to make custom washers, but I have decided if I'll use any yet.

1 is the primary blast baffle/support that goes over over the tip of the brake. 2 is the "gas stripper" baffle. Is your process moving from left to right (as it should be depicted)? If so, #2 is called a blast baffle and what you're creating (around the baffle stack) is called a coaxial c...

A little update, I have settled on a design. It's a bit unconventional, but it should work alright.

http://imgur.com/a/j676bfP