wp6529 wrote:AXA size toolpost is a bit small for a 12" lathe, a BXA size would probably be more appropriate. I use BXA on my 12x36 and 13x40 lathes.

I agree you need a BXA and you need to use a bigger parting tol to part 2" stock. I have an AXA on my heavy and it looks small.

.060 is generally recommended. For example on my .308 can that would be a bore diameter of 368. since a reamer of that size would have to be custom made I got a .375 reamer. You could also possibly find a metric reamer close to the bore diameter you want. Or you could use a boring bar to machine to ...

How much money do you want to spend? I am just curious why the options you listed aren't suitable.

Make some powder funnels, great practice! I know of no way to machine an entire baffle on the lathe without turning it around....on second thought, there is a way, but it's not a very good way. You'd end up holding it by just the tip. and having to drill a deep hole that my wander off center....a l...

So do you put the baffle in a fixture to machine the "inside" I'd like to see pics of you setup for doing the other side of the baffle. Or do you just re indicate it in once you do the front. My can design has 11 baffle for .308 seems like I may reduce that a bit.. I machine the bore thru...

So do you put the baffle in a fixture to machine the "inside" I'd like to see pics of you setup for doing the other side of the baffle. Or do you just re indicate it in once you do the front. My can design has 11 baffle for .308 seems like I may reduce that a bit..

A new email from ATF just arrived a few minutes ago which indicates they have made some performance improvements to eForms and have added form 1 back to the system. Just go the same E-mail: Good afternoon: We are pleased to announce the following updates to the eForms system: 1. Performance enhance...

Read the letter and the linked letter on the eForms page. They removed some of the forms temporarily while they work to upgrade system capacity. Once they have more capacity they indicate they will be adding form 1s and others back. Meanwhile they are processing form 1s that were submitted previous...

I had a similar Idea myself. I was just gonna find a parted out metal lathe or junker mini lathe and do the same thing. My idea is to use reamer like a .375 for my form 1 .308 to ream the bore and than use a PTG precision ground .375 rod to put in the chuck than slide the cones spacers on the rod to...

I dont see form 1 as an option on the e-forms only Form 6 and 6a did they stop doing the e forms now?

Dont discount a Clausing mill. Much lighter (easier to move) than the bridgport but just as accurate.

why do people have to make this harder than it is? Experimentation is fun though expensive in this game. I have often entertained the idea of getting an 07 SOT license just to try design idea's like this and post up results. I read on a forum one time from a guy who was well known and respected in ...

I am going to start buying PID's and solid state controllers in bulk there are at least 3 projects I have on the back burner that use them. A few years back, I needed a PID temperature controller for some chemistry projects, and it has turned into one of the handiest devices in my shop that I have....

I've been toying with the idea of home anodizing for years. I've got the temperature controller, several power supplies (which could end up being the most expensive part) - even have a roll of sheet lead I picked up at a flea market, which will line a tank and form a nice electrode. I practiced on ...

There is a guy who sells registered adapters for using oil cans. Just buy one. I work with a guy who has one and it is surprisingly effective especially when you use large fuel filter from heavy equipment.

This is a very nice setup for a small business or serious hobbyist. A person can get by with far less but this is a sweet setup. When done would you please set a link up on Historians Resource Page. http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=115318 Done. This guy uses a hi temp seal...

Doubles as a table when not is use. This will be awesome for those of us working with Ti. and Ai. for Form 1 suppressors. Build thread: http://madmodder.net/index.php/topic,9113.0.html Video of it in action: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BtYHcsq7s5A I am going to start buying PID's and solid state...

Very informative E-Book


http://www.uponone.com/howtos/1.pdf

Doubles as a table when not is use. This will be awesome for those of us working with Ti. and Ai. for Form 1 suppressors. Build thread: http://madmodder.net/index.php/topic,9113.0.html Video of it in action: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BtYHcsq7s5A I am going to start buying PID's and solid state...

I chose the Bore diameter of .375 for convenience only. I cane use a 3/8 reamer and it gives me a smidge over .060 clearance.

Capt. Link. wrote:

Grounded wrote:.005 a side is probably as loose as you would want it

Give me a fresh cut tube and .003 to .005 total clearance.

That sound better I don't know where I got the idea about .010 clearance. That did not make sense to me.

The Crown was more for show than anything. Is .010 per side enough clearance for the baffles to ID of the suppressor? Is 1.5" of Blast baffle sufficient? Still haven't wrapped my head around doing the baffles on a manual lathe if my connection at the local commercial machine shop falls through...

The Crown was more for show than anything. Is .010 per side enough clearance for the baffles to ID of the suppressor? Is 1.5" of Blast baffle sufficient? Still haven't wrapped my head around doing the baffles on a manual lathe if my connection at the local commercial machine shop falls through.

I would rework both end caps for weight and performance why not grade 5 titanium.Using 416 then having the stack hardened will make machining much easier.If heat is a major concern then switch to inconel for the first few baffles. Are you saying use grade 5 Ti. for the Tube and End caps than used 4...

Put endcap-1 on a diet.