+1 to everything propeine said, except that other than cleaning, there's no real need to use anything but aluminum for the suppressor you describe. Personally I haven't found enough fouling to matter much in my 9mm cans but that's a personal preference that some find more important than others. For ...

It was only partially the advertising that got under my skin. It was a business asking homebrew guys for drawings of baffles and recoil boosters. They didn't have the gumption to search for themselves and thought they'd make a quick buck. That doesn't sound reputable to me at all. Most of my stuff ...

Let's see it sounds like "I tried to cheap out and circumvent NFA rules by purchasing suppressor parts over the interwebsfrom a questionable source and just in case you might have thought I was genuinely buying a 'solvent trap' I'm clearing that up by publicly complaining about my butt hurt on...

Ah, I see. It's actually easier than that - look at a thread chart for other standard thread sizes to determine thread depth for that pitch, the difference between major and minor diameter is the thread depth. We're talking about 24 tpi, so look at the major and minor diameter for 5/8-24 for example...

I have cut both male and female threads for the Liberty booster (making male FBA and female threads in a Form 1). I'll have to do some measuring this weekend, I forget what the dimensions were now. Edit - misunderstood what you were asking, and shoulda looked at your first link before replying. Yes,...

1rosta wrote:If using the lead treatment, is the baffle pulled and that let to air dry or is it dunked in oil?
Your Techniques will be appreciated.

Air cool.

And +1 to what Rich said, no need for foil, especially with a lead bath; there is no scaling.

Would think case hardening or something shallow would be best and left pretty hard on the skin. Otherwise a good full hard and nice draw temper shouldn't be too bad. Depends what you are starting with, I haven't looked into heat great for 17-4 that I can recall 17-4 is easily heat treated to H900 c...

I'm sure he is referring to my handle with the knife comment. Caring for tool steels in the action of a firearm is very different from caring for same in a muzzle brake as most all lubricant type coatings will burn off immediately. Parkerizing works via pores that hold oil...a non starter in a brak...

Your theoretical concerns are not reality. The corrosion resistance of parkerized O1 is about the same as the parkerized 4140 barrel it's attached to. No special issues there. If that's a serious concern, you better figure out what to do about the bolt carrier, trigger group, bolt release, and other...

I make most of my muzzle devices from O-1, unless I'm using 17-4 to match a stainless barrel. As any intelligent person would do, I machine the O-1 parts in the annealed condition, then heat treat and temper. Final step is to abrasive blast and parkerize. The resulting finish is as corrosion resista...

CMV, in your case it's probably not the tool post itself that's flexing, but what it's mounted to (compound and maybe even the cross slide). Even the cheap AXA/BXA/CXA tool posts are fairly rigid themselves, much more so than the structure below them. If you like to keep your compound ways a little ...

Cross slide on the last 3 eh? didn't know that. That's why I come here. That's not something to "know", it's bad info. Yes, you can do it that way, but it isn't the "right" way, and isn't going to fix your issue. It's also not what most experienced machinists do. There's always ...

Maybe I'm just lucky, but I've had no warping issues when heat treating my 17-4 PH cone baffles, so I do all of them that way. I turn them in the annealed state, and heat treat in a lead casting pot with a PID controller set to 900*. Verified with hardness testing at work, the heat treatment I'm usi...

One day I want to explore a 98 Mauser chambered in .45 Win Mag shooting 300 to 350 grain bullets at around 950. Kind of like a DeLisle on steroids. Has anyone done this? I converted one to 458 Win Mag about 15 years ago, but didn't own any suppressors at the time. Wish I still had it; I often used ...

Good to know they work. My concern was more about loosening the caps after shooting a lot, where they end up tighter than you installed them from fouling.

No offense but have you actually used these?

We use similar but higher quality rapid prototype machines at work, and it's hard to imagine one of these tools surviving more than a couple uses, unless the caps are never tightened very much. The material is pretty weak.

For a one-off, I have heard of this: drill a hole in the end cap undersized take a straight allen wrench, turn down a small section on the end to fit the drilled hole, leaving a sharp shoulder (no transition) between round and hex. heat the allen section red hot with MAPP gas, immediately quench to...

Cool, thanks for the info.

Looks like maybe they don't index the vent/drain holes relative to the clips; probably decided it doesn't matter.

T-Rex, what can is that second pic? I noticed the vent (drain?) holes in the last baffle, any idea if all of the baffles have them?

My 17-4 parts dont end up half straw color when im done machining them and the chips arent pink anymore. Seems like an improvement. Neither do mine, even for very thin cones at .030" thick, and I'm only turning 17-4 dry. Just have to match the speeds correctly, and remember there's a big diffe...

I don't think a coolant system is going to be any help to you for cutting 17-4. With a big HSS multiflute countersink tool, you'd be better off with tapping oil and a very slow spindle speed. The way you're using that tool it has more in common with a barrel chamber reamer than anything else, so th...

Aluminum NEEDS coolant (or a lot of WD40) Why do you say that? I know I'm not the only one that cuts aluminum dry Have you tried cutting aluminum with WD-40? If not, you'll be impressed at the improvement. Little/no chip welding, higher speeds, and much better surface finish. Sometimes I'll use Koo...

You are certainly not the first I've heard of to have alignment issues when using YHM mounts. I don't know if it's the mount in your case, but it seems to be a common factor.

I feel that the atmosphere on this forum looks down on anyone who is not a machinist and does not own or use machine tools. The hobby builders are in a different class than the full blown machinists. Might want to give them a break and try to include them instead of chastising them because they did...

Ultrasonic jewelry cleaners are $25 on amazon, so that's not a big deal. A jewelry cleaner isn't going to touch rimfire crud. I had an ultrasonic reloading brass cleaner that was a good deal larger and more powerful than a jewelry cleaner, but I stopped using it because it was taking too long to cl...