A buddy just Efiled for a .22 suppressor. He wants me to help him make an exact copy of my all Ti can, but he doesn't want to spend that much on raw material so he asked me what would be the drawbacks from making it out of 100% AL. I told him the same durability wouldn't be there - he'd need to be a...

My tube and caps will be 316 stainless. Do you already have the material? If not, you might want to consider something easier to work with. Definitely get some AL or CRS to practice with instead of fighting 316. Also, are you starting with a chamfer on the part before starting to cut the threads? T...

Next do your female threads. Get those exactly how you want them. Then do the male piece and keep adjusting until it fits the way you want it. Care to explain you reasoning? I always do the male first, they are much easier to measure (and thusly easier to get them perfect). For a silencer as exampl...

This Also, I'm planning on using a stainless tube thickness of .049. Will 28tpi have to go too thick for that? Would i be better off with something like 36 or 40tpi? [/quote] 28 tpi threads are about 0.023" deep so that leaves 0.026" behind them. Not much, but depends on what you're makin...

Get your math right. That's the first hurdle and will get you pretty close to where you want to be. http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=136205 Next do your female threads. Get those exactly how you want them. Then do the male piece and keep adjusting until it fits the way you ...

If I wanted to use washers & still keep it simple I'd do something like this. Washers a little oversize & sides ground to fit well.

Is the .223 for a bolt gun that will see occasional use or an AR that will see hundreds of rounds per session? The good news is a decent .223 suppressor will get your 22LR Hollywood. The bad news is the decent .223 comes with some heft to it. Depending on your 22LR host, you're going to run into iss...

I'm starting on an all Ti K Baffle .22 suppressor and I'd like to improve upon my earlier cans 1.125" od x 1.0" id x 6.5" long thinned to .045" between the threads 1.045-28tpi end caps with .35" thread length 8 Ks - .955 od with a .250 bore with indexing tabs It will have a...

Very nice!

If a 30" bed isn't too big, but a 40" is, you don't have enough room for the 30" either :) You will want/need free space left of the chuck end. It's a lot easier working on a barrel (for me anyway) going thru the spindle. An outboard cathead plus the chuck are much faster to setup tha...

PM has a lot of 'LB' variants for their lathes. Meaning large bore. Haven't been on their site for a long time, but maybe the one you want has that for just a small upgrade cost? Call Matt there & ask him. He's a real nice guy & extremely helpful. Mine is real similar to the G4003G. It has a...

I've made them similar but not nearly as long as what you have pictured. Maybe .075" longer than the edge of the face. I'd worry about accuracy/stabilization issues running through that many long 'tunnels'. Depends on bore diameter I guess.

I like the stock. Did you take something existing & modify to work or just fab the whole thing up?

Bandsaw

I only shoot them out of a 1:9 AR w/ 22 conversion kit. My 10/22 sends them everywhere. They don't cycle either rifle for me, but I'm sure either rifle could be purpose-built around that round to cycle reliably.

VC19NC is Volquartsen part number. Around $300.

Its worth a shot. Ill coat the 7 baffles after the blast baffle and see how it holds up. Ill order some 17-4 and use that for the blast baffle. Cerakote on the internals is is pointless. It's a great finish for the outside, but will not survive on the internals. I did my 10/22 integral monocore in ...

Its worth a shot. Ill coat the 7 baffles after the blast baffle and see how it holds up. Ill order some 17-4 and use that for the blast baffle. Cerakote on the internals is is pointless. It's a great finish for the outside, but will not survive on the internals. I did my 10/22 integral monocore in ...

What part of NC?

Is your tube already threaded? Might not be able to do that on a 7x12 - they run out of real estate pretty quick

Keep in mind 303 isn't as 'stainless' as one would expect - it will require regular maintenance. Machines nice though.

Some people add little or no value to any discussion so why waste time reading it or trying to correct it? I just see this and it makes the experience here so much better. Try it & see if you don't enjoy this forum a lot more.

Now it's my turn to ask. Why do spacers to the wall work better? I mean, if the spacers are heavily ported, wouldn't it make little difference? Thanks, Lava I would think all the way to the wall would win. The gas will want to follow the wall. Let it until it goes as far as it can, then it has to r...

https://youtu.be/Mj8lAg2uAGc This is the video that's in my 30 cal writeup that's probably a few pages back by now. This is mildly clipped smooth cones vs a Liberty Freedom commercial 30 cal can. Same barrel length ARs, same ammo. Not in the video, but the neither of us could tell any difference sho...

port in parallel to bore (not the angled bore thru) for the port that leads to around cone. look at the tirant etc k's. why does that help performance? i figured that was just a cheaper way to manufacture them. Draw it both ways & look what happens to the 'little sharp pointy part'. I'd suggest...

I didn't convert any brass. I just started with factory ammo & then reused that brass. Of all the calibers I load - a dozen or so - .357SIG is my least favorite. I played hell getting it to where I had good neck tension. It's a neat round, but I'm not sure I'd even bother trying to suppress it. ...

They're both .355 diameter for typical jacketed bullets.

I would swear that someone on here warned you about that...... :) Use a fish & make sure you're perfectly on centerline with your parting blade. When I first started I kinda jumped right in with harder to machine materials. Sometimes parting got really frustrating for me. Problem ended up being ...