Was your question directed at the NFA process to transfer your suppressor to a new owner/buyer or was it asking if you would be liable for any damages caused by the new owner with something you built? When I first saw this thread, the later is what I first thought, don't know why. Over the years I h...

Sweet!!!!

I have two 1911 threaded Jarvis barrels.
http://www.jarvis-custom.com/Products/t ... fault.aspx

I have never had a form #4 or form #1 with the front of the form completed ever given to my sheriff to sign.... ever.

I've been tumbling wet with stainless steel and brass media too
My suppressors that I bought in the 80's still look brand new.

My go to 9mm sub-sonic load is.....Berry's 147gr with 3.5gr of Bullseye.
Functions in my handguns (beretta & glock) and sub's (HK, uzi, colt)
I use to load the Win 147 trun-cone and had a few feeding problems.
I've never had that problem with the Berry RN.

My use of sound suppressors is so my neighbors don't know that I'm out practicing.
Here in Wisconsin at 75 degrees there are usually leaves on the trees and bushes.
At 35 degrees the trees and bushes are bare and gunshots tend to be louder.

Nice first time build. Have you considered more notches on the piston to adjust for POI if needed ? Is the cone angle on the K's 60 degrees ? . I did consider POI.......I machined the one notch in the piston at 12 o'clock when on my G19. I test fired a few rounds and was happy with that grouping, m...

Thanks for the compliments........This was a fun build.

delta9mda wrote:you have made jedi status.

That's DAM funny!!!!
I get only 1% time on the lathe, otherwise my oldest son is cranking out
custom "light sabers" that are made out of 30 or more parts.

Thought I'd post pics of my latest 9mm form 1 project. This one was really fun to make.....as I wanted k baffles and make a booster for use with my G19 The k baffles, end cap and rear mount are 7075 aluminum, Tube is 6061. The booster body and piston are 316 stainless steel. Compression spring is a ...

I bought an AWC Turbodyne for my Barrett M82 when they first came out.
The thing weighs a ton on the end of that long barrel. I could never get
any accuracy with it on the 82 so I picked up a bolt action 99 and very
happy with the performance of that package.

This year I have forgot to send the "Cert of Comp" with one of my form 1's.
After waiting 3 months or so....there was a message from NFA Branch on my machine requesting one to be faxed to them.
My approved form 1 arrived three days later.

I'm sorry......
But I grab a beer and some popcorn everytime that show is on
and laugh my ass off.

SWEET!!!!
Bet you start looking for another NFA purchase soon

i would not even think of starting on my silencer untill i get my form 1 in hand. madbear madbear.....As for getting started.... you can bore into a solid stock round bar 1" to 2" deep and practice your internal treading. Even make an threaded cap for your new condom container. .....JUST ...

bakerjw wrote:If you haven't found out yet, you'll probably spend more on tooling than what you spent on the lathe.

Ain't that the truth!!!!
My $2000 lathe has about $5000 worth of accessories

If your blast baffle opening is too big it kind of defeats it's purpose. I do own a couple of old AWC 9mm cans that use a greased mesh "mixing chamber module" instead of a blast baffle first. The aluminum spindle module's bore has a larger entry hole then exit hole. Thus forcing the gases ...

With your skills, why did you buy the booster from Gemtech?
You should of just made one.

Hoop....Thanks for posting the pics.

I use a 17/64" bit on 22lr baffles

My first 9mm cans were purchased in the 80's and early 90's. All of them supplied with 1/2x32 threaded barrels.
So I have always stuck with that thread on my current purchases and builds.

In GENERAL, ports will dump a lot more of the gasses than a baffle would ever be able to 'redirect'. Jason.....that is exactly what I wanted to hear. With this design the space is there, so why not use it correctly with "barrel ports" ....and yes, a new support chamber will not be vented ...

Hello Guys!!! It has been awhile since I posted here. I've worked on a few 10/22 projects with the design pictured, tweaking each new one. The factory barrel is reduced in length to 16.5" and taper removed. Muzzle is threaded 1/2x28 and at the rear threaded 5/8 x 18 just forward of the wood sto...

Should I choose a 9mm can that can come apart for cleaning reasons, or is it not really going to be a problem if the tube is attached to the barrel? If I was going to do a welded on tube design, I would consider using a sleeved suppressor core within the tube. That could be removed as "one&quo...