Flipping the tool would allow you to get it on center without needing to hang the tool post holder off the edge of the compound. I'm not exactly sure what you can do to get past the layer. If it happened to me, I'd slow the lathe down and with a new tool tip, give her hell. Can you get any of your o...

I didn't think about it until now, but you could have flipped the tool upside down and reversed the lathe.

Sounds like you work hardened the SS with the HSS parting tool. Gonna need to break through that layer of hardness.

Might bring in your tailstock to give it a little more rigidity.

I had the same issue with my AXA tool post and the parting tool. I already removed some material from the bottom of the holders, but it wasn't enough. I ended up milling some off of the bottom of the tool as well. If you have a 4 jaw chuck, turning down the holder on the lathe is a piece of cake. Yo...

That tool you have pictured in your hand is what I use. But, I am only cutting smaller pieces like yourself.

Also, it makes the threads look better if you have an angled relief on the back as well as the front.

If you can't slow the feed rate down any, try larger radii (radiused spelled correctly) tooling. I was accidently sent some WNMG inserts. Seller told me to keep them and shipped the right inserts. Figured what the heck and bought a couple cheap holders. Had to mill the heck out of the holders to sit...

That looks good!!

Got a link to the "part 2" of the video? I can't even find the one you linked too in his playlist.

I can't help but think you are going to have a hard time turning down a cone shape on centers. If that lathe had a larger spindle bore that you could stick the work piece in, you'd be golden!

Regular, non-skirted cones would be the simplest to make.

The insert that I have broke the most has been for my parting tool. That was in the beginning when I didn't know better. I have dulled a few others and broke a couple more when the tool fell off of the bench. But, I do buy the cheapest inserts I can get from China.

Looks like normal gas patterns to me. Especially if in alignment with the clipping.

Congrats on the fast efile time.

The 1" x 6" filters? Or is it a real size 4003 filter?

First is too small and a .22lr will probably work. They are a direct knock off of the Form1Builders kit.

Real sized 4003 would be way to big for a pistol.

That isn't a reflex design.

Are you trying to kill the shooter using galvanized steel?

Catch one of TI's sales to help save a few bucks.

It has been posted on other sites, but with DM being a "solvent trap" site, giving out info on how to clip their cones wouldn't fare too well in the eyes of the ATF. I wouldn't expect an answer.

Enough to be hearing safe.

1.347" Totality 60° specs

1.347" Diameter at base
.110" Skirt height
1.221" Diameter at cone base
.500" Diameter at cone tip
.740" Cone height

Who's cones and what size do you plan on using? I might have the dimensions for them.

Did you forget that you had already started a post?

viewtopic.php?f=10&t=156217

fucking website....try again I don't see how an adjustable gas block will do any good with his current issue. He needs more gas, not less. OP, unless you can get someone to custom make the barrel for you, you're going to need to turn the barrel down to move the gas block back. If you can do that to ...

You can remove the shoulder with a grinder. Might not look pretty, but will get the job done. If you don't have a way to hold onto the EC you can use the thread adapter to make the stack tight. With the adapter loose, screw the modified EC in until where you think it needs to be, tighten the adapter.

You can legally remove material from the suppressor. Options are to cut the tube slightly shorter or remove some of the shoulder on the endcap(s). On your next builds, leave the spacer .020"+ longer and keep checking the tightness of the cap over time. If the spacers are not cut with a square e...

Where are you located, chuck? I have some spacer material from DM that is made for 1.375" I.D. tubes. I could send you one for the cost of shipping $3 to see how it fits.

I had always thought that TI bought his spacers from DM until I read that the TI spacers were thicker than the DM spacers. I can't confirm that, just what I read. It doesn't take much for a spacer to get squashed out of round in a bubble wrapped envelope nor does a tube not being bored correctly sli...

I don't own a Glock and never purchased anything from this company. Just saw this link recently on another forum and thought I'd share.