Perhaps not. Are you referring to sections 11-16?

Trust applications actually do not have to fill them out. Same goes for the F4.
Best case is that section gets ignored either way for a trust. So you're still good to go.

Acetone and toothbrush is fine too. Anything new from the factory usually comes heavily greased/oiled up. But the presence of grease and oils reduces the effectiveness of the chemical bonds in Rocksett and Loctite. Might even render them useless after a short time. Bottle is great. It's in pure liqu...

Very important to completely degrease both the barrel threads and FH threads first. Just need rubbing alcohol and a nylon brush. After several scrubs, let it completely dry. Is this Rocksett from a single use tube? Got a vise to hold the rifle/upper in place? And a torque wrench to tighten 20-30 ft-...

If it gets really stuck try putting the wrench on the tube, not maad mount and unscrew. Best cure I found for the one rifle that tended to really stick on, was let it cool for 20-30 min, tap the sides and then it was much easier. Brand new mounts need a little breaking in. After a while I remember ...

I do not think AAC will jailbrake a sealed TiRant. Is your SN# only 4 numbers? Mine is 6 and if that has anything to say about how long AAC was using loctite on the front cap should tell you something. TR45 is the common model# and the next 4 digits are the serial#. Yours began with a "0"...

Thanks for the advice on the Surge. I'm very intrigued by the modular design. I like the warranty, although I'm a bit apprehensive about the fact that it's such a young company. A warranty doesn't mean much if the company doesn't make it. Young company by name only. Henry Graham was one of the top ...

The "dip" is a 50/50 mix of vinegar and hydrogen peroxide. Both harmless household items you can get at any $1 stores. However, when mixed together it literally dissolves lead. Turns carbon into mush also. The liquid mixture becomes lead acetate... highly toxic stuff. Long-cuff nitrile glo...

Only way I can think of for the spring to bind is heavy carbon/lead buildup. On the steel insert and/or the spring itself.

The steel insert and spring are both stainless. If you clean them using the dip method (which would get them squeaky clean) everything should work again.

So you've fully disassembled it, cleaned it, and still sticking? Strange.

Silco is very slow responding to emails. Best bet is just call them up first thing in the morning.

The 3 lug adapter has to be disassembled for deep cleaning.

It simply unscrews in half but you will need a proper wrench that fits those holes for leverage:

http://www.amazon.com/Armstrong-34-204- ... B00004WBHK

CanOfWhooppass wrote:I'm woundering, since rifle cans don't need servicing due to the higher blast, would shooting rifle rounds blow out pistol powder buildup?

Definitely, especially with short barrels. Just be sure the can supports the rifle round and barrel length though.

I've heard of very early Tirants having Loctite applied on the endcap. But with your 2xxx serial# it's highly doubtful. Somewhere in these forums, Mike Mers (former AAC sales guy) recommended using the vise technique I posted earlier... but forgot the part about submerging the endcap in WD40 overnig...

The citizenship compliance form? No it's not required with a trust. It's not required on eForms either.

Nice game plan for just starting out. You got the basics all covered already.
3 quality cans will serve 98% of all your needs: rimfire, centerfire pistol, centerfire rifle.

No 22LR hosts?! You have no idea the fun you're missing out on

Yea the residual gas from the slots are external to the system. Not part of the traditional barrel/chamber blowback. I was just bitching about always having to wipe down the front of the slide/barrel/piston after using my Octane. I believe it lessens overall backpressure during cycling. Which is not...

I was the one who brought up the topic in the Silencerco section: http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=127&t=136591 Perhaps I shouldn't have used the term "blowback" since everyone associates that as gas in the face. But gunk does come out through those slots, especially i...

Beretta 92 barrels don't tilt, but they do move back/forth.

If the barrel moves in any way during cycling, it's best to always use the booster. Less stress and fatigue on the threads in the long run.

All Tirants are take-apart. It's just a matter of how tight the endcap was assembled at the factory. Or if perhaps Loctite was used. My Tirant 45 has a 3xxx serial# and all it took was some muscle to finally budge the endcap. No Loctite was applied to mine. Easiest way is to secure the disassembly t...

Flash hiders don't need timing or shims. Brakes do.

Don't ever use crush washers.

It's fine. Section 15 can actually be left blank for silencers only. Experienced dealers know this. But there's no harm in having it filled out either.

Its amazing how such slight gains in performance can cause a frenzied mob. I wonder how many could tell the difference between it and an Octane, Tirant, Ghost, etc if shots were 10 seconds apart? Very true. Obsidian is quite literally a modular Octane. They can even share the same pistons.... which...

So any changes on thoughts over the last year as to the best 22 cans? Just to reiterate that even today, the Sparrow is still the easiest to clean/disassemble even after very high round counts (up to 2000+). But if I could choose a new 22 can today, definitely the new Mask by Dead Air. Good luck fi...

Very educational. How/where is that 85dB measured? As a bystander, the compressed air discharge sounds snappy. The suppressed Savage actually sounded better/quieter on video.

No matter how important dB readings are to you, there is always a realistic point when some dB tradeoff is the correct way to go.

Saker is basically just a shorter/lighter version of Specwar. Same durability. But with a better MAAD system, more mounting options (even ASR), and swappable endcaps.

Take a wire brush and make a habit of scrubbing off any carbon buildup on the FH and ASR mount. Especially along the teeth and threads. Many times the crevices are small enough that you can't visually tell if there's buildup. I use MAAD mounts, but the cause of seizing is the same... carbon lockup. ...