Bendersquint wrote:

DMY wrote: 17-4 work hardens really fast! Sometimes is can catch you like

Bummer! Is it as bad as the austenitic grades?

BTW, McMaster-Carr sells H900 and I think H1150 17-4 round bar. You'll have to cut it in it's hardened state, but that's not the end of the world.

If you have heat treat capabilities 17-4. Just want to throw this out there - I was looking at some info on heat treated 17-4. I am thinking H900 or so is the only way to go. From what I can tell, H1150 has about the same properties as Condition A (untreated.) See here: http://www.aksteel.com/pdf/m...

Haha yea, I've never had a Goodyear car tire that I've liked. I have had decent Goodyear truck tires though.

66427vette wrote:Goodyear tires are s--t so who cares.

Also, not sure, I but I think Cooper recently started producing some or all of their tires overseas, I think in China.

The point of my questions really wasn't about whether or not anyone should believe in religion but more whether or not there is any actual evidence in the bible that all this was created by some infinite and superior being and how to separate the fact from the embellishment. This question is a very...

You cannot approach prayer in a one dimensional way. Sometimes we ask for the wrong things - things that are not of part of God's plan. Sometimes prayer is less asking and more listening. Praying to Jesus does not help either - that is easy to see. Religious people do not have better outcomes during...

Given 16" OAL, is there some formula for barrel length ? I wish there was an easy formula, but there is not. There are so many design variables and there is (relatively) so little shared knowledge that it's tough to set out a formula. Testing is difficult due to NFA restrictions and of course ...

Wow, so with a 7-1/2" barrel, that leaves you about 9" of suppressor. That's a really good starting point. Have you considered going with a shorter barrel? Not 100% sure about this (I am sure there are countless details and variables) but I'm not sure that a 9mm benefits from a longer barr...

Haha yea really - the monocore would be easier. I guess I could make some K baffles with a rotary table if I really wanted to... The table actually feels really good. There might be a tiny bit of play - I haven't put a micrometer on it to see how much. I will probably clean it up but I'm going to st...

Let's say you're threading together a bare aluminum tube (not anodized) into a stainless steel thread adapter - would the appropriate amount of anti-seize paste on the threads help, or for the most part solve, this problem of corrosion and dissimilar metals? We use it in the automotive industry for ...

1) is it safe to say that a .22lr can design done in stainless steel will be good for .17hmr (of course with a slightly smaller through bore)? Cant answer #1 until we know your design. Can you give a little more info on this Bender? It seems like stainless is the go-to material for durability. What...

The pictures in the original post don't work - fix 'em so I can see it!

I don't even own a mill. I bought a mill! :D I guess now it's time to mess around with some different materials and tooling so I can get the hang of it. I really wanted to make a monocore design, but I am now reconsidering, and thinking that conical K baffles might be the way to go. A monocore woul...

Bendersquint wrote: Without getting into a long drawn out explanation the spring only has 1 purpose and that is why it is a silencer part.

Just throwing this out there - but if you could find another (non-silencer) legitimate use for that spring, it may not be considered a silencer part. Right?

I have no milling experience. I don't even own a mill. Heck, I might not even build anything on a Form 1. I figured starting at the beginning - getting something on paper - was a good place to start, so that's what I am doing. All the feedback I am getting, including yours, is helping me decide what...

ChimeraPrecision wrote: Hell no. You cut annealed rod and heat treat it post machining. Cutting hardened material is a nightmare

Ah okay. So I guess I can heat treat it myself then? Because after I cut the material into a suppressor, I can't let it out of my sight.

I did a little more research, and I think 17-4 deserves a look as well. Also, when you turn stainless bar stock into a suppressor core, you are using hardened rod - not annealed rod, right? In my opinion, No.. Go to matweb.com for all of your material inquiries. I actually like to cut 304 more than ...

I would suggest 416 or 304 SS. Both are easier to cut than 316 in my opinion I was originally planning 416 but it looks like it doesn't take the combination of heat and stress as well as 316. Here are some excepts from a material specifications table: 304/304L is used almost exclusively for parts r...

Thanks for all the info guys. I am working on a new drawing that takes most of these suggestions into account. The new drawing will also be much friendlier to machine. I like the 316 because of its durability and because I will be able to thread the core directly. (If I made the core out of aluminum...

Thanks for all the feedback guys. Yea, slanting the baffles a little more might be a good idea. I based this off of the Liberty Mystic, and I think it's baffles are a little more slanted. Regarding the fewer baffles idea - any reason for that? Is there a particular design you're thinking of? Why dro...

Ah yea, that's a good point. I will have to change some of those baffles to allow a 1/8 tool to get in between them. Looks pretty good. Just make sure you can get a tool in there to machine it . . . some of the spacing between some of the baffles looks tighter than you want for a tool that will cut ...

Here is a drawing of a design I was contemplating for a 9mm SBR. I want to keep it as short as possible so I can use a short handguard and not have the end of the suppressor eclipse my rail-mounted light. (Longer suppressor will cast a shadow directly into the field of aim.) The suppressor needs to ...

Would a baffle design like this work okay for 9mm? I know it's a for a 22, but I don't remember seeing any manufacturers making one like this for 9mm. Thought maybe there was a reason for that...

Thanks for all the discussion guys - very helpful!

Bendersquint wrote:Are you going to anodize the tube when complete or just leave it raw?

Regarding the finish on the tube, I'd like to have it anodized. Should i have that done before or after the tube is threaded? What happens if I do not anodize the tube at all?

7075 machined to .065" wall, 9mm. Note that the tube will also consist of the integrated endcap. I'm taking a guess and thinking 24 or 28 TPI would be appropriate given the thickness and material of the tube. Thread pitch, tube material, caliber? I guess it might make a difference. On secondthe...

How much thread engagement do I need between the core of the suppressor and a tube with an integral endcap? The threads would be located on the side of the core that screws onto the barrel. Would 3/8" be enough?