I personally prefer 28 tpi for end cap - tube threads for the additional strength, but a lot of people use 24 or even 20 tpi. Just depends how thick you're willing to make the tube. Only reason I use 28 tpi instead of something finer like 36 is just that I thread a lot of barrels at 28 tpi so it's ...

You could do it at a lower speed I have done it as slow as 45 rpm...It just takes FOREVER ,or so it seems

I have also noticed carbide seems to cut better (better surface finish) at higher speeds

I won't lie I usally make 2 or 3 practice passes before I start it is a bit nerve wracking the first couple of times

I feel like I've been cheating, I have been using a LH carbide threading tool and running the lathe in reverse at around 350 rpm with just Mobil 760 cutting oil it's been working great. Its also awesome when threading up to an internal shoulder ETA: .005 per pass for the first 5, a clean up pass the...

Its just a standard steel retainer , nothing exotic but I think there may be a company that makes them or something close in Ti

The part number is 616.105.421.01

My thought was for a 9mm can

I'm doing some research while I wait for my F1 (hopefully soon)

I stumbled upon this VSR in our shop
.407" Bore
.536" Tall
1.183" OD (just a bit to large but workable)

What do you think?

Higher feeds and lower speed seem to do best on stainless for me. Like Capt. Link. said stainless will work harden 3xx stainless work hardens pretty easily and all stainless is stringy (without the proper chip breaker) I keep a pair of needle nose pliers on hand to remove stringy Stainless and Ti bi...

The booster in question is an off the shelf Liberty

Practicality in reference to weight is completely up to the end user. I have spoken with people that said a 5 ounce can is not practical and others that said a 18 ounce is fine. That is completely up to the end user. Those weights are completely dependent on the manufacturer, some weigh with access...

I'm in the planning stages of my next project a 9mm pistol can with a booster. Ive been looking for info and haven't found much (my google fu sucks) This isn't my first F1 in fact its my 5th (2 5.56 cans and 3 .22lr) My idea is a semi homemade can (7.6" SDTA B tube W/ liberty Booster) and eithe...

That seems like the best idea...I left plenty of meat on the rear cap


On another note TI gets a bad rap for being hard to work with it was easier than the 17-4 in my last 2 builds.... but I did use flood coolant ...I'd say in all its not much harder than AL but it threads easier

It's nearly done Made 7 TI k baffles the cones are .050" thick the bore is .265" Now just to shave some weight it 6.8oz as it sits I can take nearly an Oz off by turning the tube OD down by .020 between the threads ,that will still leave .045" http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq189/...

Well it looks like I'm going to have to remake the rear cap somehow the barrel threads ended up FUBAR :( they are not parallel to the bore. The cap must not have been in the collet straight . When I redo the cap I'll do it all in one operation without removing it from the chuck...I know better... On...

T-Rex wrote:Are you setup to broach a hex into the end cap's exit hole?
Your disassembly tool can be an Allen Key.

I thought about but have no broaching equipment

Do you plan on spanner holes to assist in removing caps for cleaning? Yeah...I was thinking of spanner holes or putting it in a 5C collet and a hex collet block and milling flats for a socket but there isn't much meat left after the threads in the front cap (its hard to see but the cap is tapered 1...

Thanks The rear cap is going to be shortened by 0.100" and maybe cut the groove 0.050 deeper but first I need to grind a new face grooving tool. And I may take a bit more out of the front cap again I can probably go at least 0.075" deeper. I'm going with the grams make ounces mentality. I'...

After much thought I started my new. 22 can. I've had my F1 approved for nearly a month now so I figured I should get started I didn't have a lot of time to work on it today but I did get the end caps made It will be 6" long 1.125"od x.065" wall 3AL2.5V tube thinned to .040" in t...

Correct me if I'm wrong but when pinning and welding a muzzle attachment you never actually weld any thing to the barrel. You drill through the muzzle device in the middle of the threads until you make a dimple ,insert a pin and weld over the top of the pin ...the pin keeps the muzzle devise from ro...

BinaryAndy wrote:Sharp HSS is a good idea, but for some reason I've always had better luck with the ridiculously sharp carbide inserts like some of the ccgt inserts intended for finish cuts on titanium and super alloys.

Ive done this as well however be warned you will get ridiculously sharp long stringy chips

I used cut vinyl decals that my local trophy shop made.

I clamped the positive to the work piece and the negative to a cotton ball soaked on vinegar (it's a homemade etching unit) then held it to the work piece for about 1 min 30 sec I'd try it on a piece of scrap first just to get the time right If you don't leave it long enough it will just discolor th...

I electro etched my TI can and it worked beautifully 24V@400mA with vinegar for an electrolyte

What you are describing is similar to a dot matrix printer ...sounds like a pain on a manual mill

I agree with delta...my 8" Ti 5.56 can is 1.25 from end cap to baffle it probably would've been shorter but my brake is 1.125" in the can . The reason I did it that way was to fit more baffles

Using barrel volume gets even more screwed up when you start calculating short barrels (10.5" .223) you start getting impossibly small blast chambers

Also keep in mind if you use a muzzle devise you need to factor it into the volume of your blast chamber

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