Milan454 wrote: ↑Fri Apr 17, 2020 5:44 pm I'm looking to start a form1 for my 50.

Welcome, Milan.
You really should make a thread dedictaed to your own build. It keeps everything fluid and easily searched.

With regard to your question, are you located in the US? If so, you can have a local machine shop make you the parts.

There is a local place that does hard anodize. I will get a price on getting these pieces done. That's ok, but understand that these are silencer (firearm) parts and can't be left w/ just anyone. If they don't have the proper FFL license, you'll need to remain at the shop, until parts are finished....

This is the exact same as putting a 50 Beowulf upper on a lower, SBR'd for 22lr. except not at all. There is no atf document saying not to change SBR calibers. There is an ATF document saying not to change the caliber or a silencer. And yet, I'm still waiting for you to produce it. Seeing the fact ...

Recommending it to people online simply because the ATF didnt define what constitutes a caliber change is irresponsible. If you want to do it and see if the loophole holds in court, by all means, go ahead. Dont tell other people its perfectly legal. You still haven't answer my question about how yo...

so I can take an SBR thats engraved and registered for 223 and put a 20mm upper on it? No officer, thats not a 20mm destructive device, its registered and engraved as 22 caliber. Simple logic says that changing the diameter of the baffles so that you can fire another caliber through it than it was ...

You cant take a 22 silencer and overbore it to change its caliber without filing a second tax stamp. There's zero reg's, ruling's, case law, clarification letters, etc (that I've ever seen) to substantiate this. Open the bore, to repair some baffle strikes, large enough so that a 25cal projectile j...

Ridge Runner wrote: ↑Thu Apr 09, 2020 11:07 amI would not recommend 1x6" but might do 1x8".

May I ask why?
One of the quietest 22lr, muzzle threaded, designs I've done was right at 1"OD x 5.25"LG.

So do your baffled have progressively longer skirts as you go along the length of the suppressor in that first picture? That's exactly what the pic shows. The top baffles are closest to the muzzle and have longer skirts. and let the cone section get a little longer toward the end? Do you have a spe...

Can an all Al can be used on 6.5 supers? Sure. It's up to you to use discretion w/ your fire schedule. Do I know what grade Al (or to what Thk walls) these trap companies are using? No. This is important, especially w/ Al. Make sure you look at the baffles geometry. Just because someone is selling a...

I love to make jigs and fixtures. I should've been a T&D Maker.

@ECCO Machine You do yours on the rotary, right? I've have good luck with simple straight milling. Just set the bit into the baffle OD .003 greater than the skirt thk. A jig makes it go relatively quickly. Yeah, you have to swap the parts in and out a lot, but get into a rhythm and it's not bad. htt...

Zero99z wrote: ↑Mon Apr 06, 2020 5:03 pm I might stack mine in randomly. I still got time to decide

There's nothing that says you can't try different orientations.

Throw 422 stainless 980° temper into that graph and you'll see why I like it Please, don't take my comments wrong. I'm not against your choices, they're very applicable materials. I was just reommending something I knew would be another good steel. Also, your comment of "I don't consider carbo...

Capt. Link. wrote: ↑Fri Apr 03, 2020 4:16 pmNo one makes a meter this fast anymore or has the range necessary to measure suppressed vs UN-supressed.

B&K has a new system, PULSE, which I believe exceeds Mil-Std.

Everything Ecco said. The 1M from muzzle and 6" from ear are used because they're the standard. The military standard, but the one that exists and, well, sets a standard. It has to do with the ear placement of the shooter and nearby soldiers, and nothing else. You want to move the mic? Go ahead...

I don't consider carbon, manganese or nickel steels for suppressors. Maraging steels have enough Ni to be more corrosion resistant than many grades, but they're not stainless. C350 has 1/2 the Carbon as 17-4, 1/10th the Mn, and >10% less Fe. 420 has 5x more C 422 has 8x more C And 440? Woosh, 40x m...

Yes, you can "roll" your own prints. You can even do it on regulr paper, so long as you follow the FBI's layout. You can even high-res scan a good set of prints and just print them, for future use. As to your main query. Don't ever send in design drawings, w/ a form 1, unless they twist yo...

I have an endless supply of 440 stainless should I just consider using that? and should it be heat treated? I can tig very well, but I guess I don't really understand what is meant by tigging a tubeless design? I've tigged a lot of stainless and it distorts horribly, so I just don't see how it is p...

ECCO Machine wrote: ↑Thu Apr 02, 2020 3:03 pm

Why did you leave off C350?

UTS 342 @ ~58Rc

Use the 17-4, in a tubeless design. It's strong enough to have smaller cross-sections and, foregoing the tube, you've dropped even more weight. If you ever get it hot, you need not worry due to the strength retained.

You got it. If you can design and have access to machine tools, this will be a breeze. Below, in my signature is a link to completed builds. If you want to learn a little silencer theory, start on page 1. If you just want a more modern design, to be done with it, start on the last page. There's tons...

Your best bet is to post a picture or design prints. However, take these into consideration: -K-baffles are not going to be anywhere near your best bet, with high velocity, centerfire rifle calibers. They can be designed well, but a first timer isn't going to want to deal with it. Just make 60deg co...

Let the bit cool between parts. Not that this is bad advice, it isn't conducive to proper machining. Your chips should be taking away the vast majority of heat. So much so that your tool bits shouldn't be getting "hot". You should be able to touch a drill/tool bit, immediately after the c...

Let's assume you're drilling properly. Starting w/ a center drill, the hole should already be broken thru, on a thin part. Following with the final drill size shouldn't take too much effort. Pecking is a good practice. Let the metal, the machine, and the cutting bit tell you what should be done. Thi...

HSS is absolutely fine, for both SS and Ti, @ 220rpm. You don't need "tons" of cutting fluid. HSS can cut both materials dry and you're not going to make a ton of heat as the front of those cups aren't thick. A singl drop of oil, just to get started, is all that's needed. What do you mean ...