I thought I had plenty of threads with a 1/2" thick endcap almost full threaded 1/2-28. On final review I see the YHM barrel threading spec is .620-.670" from shoulder to muzzle. That will leave exposed threads to get gunked up in my blast chamber. I am trying to keep the weight down so ad...

Whats a max load in a 308 with a 180-185gr RN flat base bullet with trailboss ( from what iv seen its pretty much to the sholder )? Im about to reload som hand cast bullets with it . also whay kind of report do you get without a supresor? as im not alowed one in my country. And should i use a crimp...

I'm not afraid of shims, but would rather reduce parts count where I can. Still, a shim is cheaper than scrapping and remaking a baffle! I had visualized cutting the first and last baffle shoulder at an angle and wedging o-rings to seal the threads from getting gunked up...but that is probably not w...

When machining baffles how tight do you secure them in the stack? In other words, do I have the endcap start contacting the baffle stack with a half thread left to turn, one thread of compression, hit it on the nose so the endcap contacts the baffle stack and the tube shoulder at the same time, ????...

The traditional home heat treat for 17-4 is to throw it in a household self cleaning oven through a self cleaning cycle...which is about 900 F. While not precise, it is 'good enough' for a form 1 can. In most HT overheating is far worse than underheating, so your home oven is 'safe' to try on 17-4. ...

I have a lot less chatter when opening up (boring) the groove wider...it is the plunge cuts that chatter most on my light lathe. I might try one of these cutters to start and set the cut depth, then switch to a boring tool to open up the groove. Interesting thoughts...and I think I have one or two i...

The first thought in my mind was tradeoff between plating and just making the part thicker. For a form 1 with lathe turned parts, I'd just make the blast baffle thicker to account for wear. An extra few thousnadths of 17-4 vs. the same thickness of plating? Some difference but enough to be worth the...

Here is an update with the 'traditional' endcap and more baffles. I plotted it in color so the 'threads' don't show up well. I am using the YHM barrel thread plan for 1/2-28 TPI muzzle threading to set up my spacing. That calls for about 1/2" from shoulder to muzzle crown, so I left 3/4" f...

Any particular reason you're using a 2-piece tube design, instead of traditional tube w/ end caps? I am probably over engineering it, but I can't get the threads at the blast end out of my head as a weak point. My design reinforces the threads by including the outer ring of the mount/endcap to take...

...thought I had that in the notes...missed it. 22lr only. All my lurking here has never given me a good feel for spacing on the blast baffle to muzzle. No rules of thumb seem to be 'published'. I figured an extra cone or 2 would be easy enough...even after I get started. I can cut some of the skirt...

I am working up a CAD model before I start work. I have made it this far. The picture has multiple questions. Please apply your combined expertise and let me know if I am on the right or wrong path. This will be hosted on multiple guns from a 4" bbl autoloading pistol to a 18" bbl bolt rif...

Seems like a long boring bar is going to be consistent. It is going to deflect when cutting, but a skim cut to true it up should be very light and after a couple of passes should be fairly consistent. Sharp HSS tooling will help...and I can get that done. The taper is from bed wear from the original...

I can but I am fitting them to a tube that will have a slight internal taper...I am assuming the need to run a boring bar through to true up the inner face of my tube. That process is going to leave a slight internal taper. No way around it on my equipment. The idea is to build the baffles to accoun...

My lathe is old and worn. No 2 ways around it. I can only get the taper down so much, especially around the headstock. I try to work in the most parallel area I can but the length of a suppressor tube means I will have some taper to work with...on the order of .002-.004" end to end. I can work ...

Perfect material for a steampunk suppressed AR! :lol: Lots of materials will work if implemented properly. Optimization is fun...one big advantage to building your own! You gotta decide what you are optimizing for. I hate that my SS can stays hot for a while after shooting since I like to disassembl...

That's why my 300BO is on a side charger upper. Suppressed subs and it is a straight pull bolt action, full power operates like a normal AR. No adjustments required. I did all the tricks to get subs to cycle. It can be done easily enough. It then hammers the crap out of the action when shooting full...

I'm sure you could get close with a suppressor for extra back pressure, Trail Boss, heavy bullets, and some tuning. Let us know how it goes. Check your twist rates too. In my experience the "1 rifle for subs and supers" is a failed experiment, even after trying adjustable gas blocks, bolt ...

I have thought a lot about the deep drill issue and wondered why I couldn't build a monocore in 2 pieces? Treat it like a baffle stack of 2. Drill oversize stock, ream, center with a spider to align the bore, turn the outside concentric. What am I missing? I know it wouldn't be a 'traditional' monoc...

Tried to search and google...nothing really seemed to cover this. I understand that 18 is the minimum age to own a firearm. Can I add my less than 18 year old to my NFA trust so that when he/she gets to 18 they are automatically eligible to take my suppressor or SBR without my presence? I have copie...

There is a flaw in your logic. If a firearm manufacturer tests a firearm and deems it unfit, it is discarded/destroyed. It is still a firearm until destroyed to ATF specs. A manufacturer can then move on to the next unit. They can't just deem that unfit firearm "not a firearm" and sell it...

Threading oil in the plumbing aisle is cheap and works well as a cutting oil.

My thought was to buy a 'spare' bolt or two and skeletonize it as much as I can. They are not expensive. Truthfully I need a couple, one light and one heavy for the hyper velocity rounds and to delay opening when shooting suppressed. http://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/bolt-parts/bolts/bolt-assembl...

What does this bolt do that can't be had via a lightened factory bolt and spring? The CCI Quiet round feeds fine in my 10/22 but obviously doesn't cycle the bolt. I had thought about lightening my bolt but didn't want a dedicated rifle for that cartridge...I have bolt actions for it already.

If you have true steel core black tip AP 30 cal projectiles, those have significant value. They are no longer available, limited to what is already on the market pulled from old 30-06 ammo. I'd trade you 3:1 170 grain RN (or milsurp 147/150 grain) for all of them you wanted to get rid of. It would b...

I would hope that following common industrial manufacturing practices would be acceptable for a home build. In other words, the manufacturing process in most (reputable anyway) manufacturing companies includes quality control checks. If the firearms industry doesn't call a firearm complete until aft...