I am missing your point. Help me understand. Not that the OP's question has already been answered (correctly), several times, but you simply advise him to use an adapter an in no way advise how to do this (as the other replies have). As I said, "The SR22 has external threads... The OP doesn't&...

SPLnFFT app for iphone. I'm sure it's not milspec. Don't even bother. That isn't going to produce anything remotely close to an accurate result. There's a reason the proper equipment is scarcely made and costs thousands of dollars. If you're happy w/ the build, that's what matters :D That Aguilla 6...

1/32 is a bit fine, especially for threads used on parts meant to be threaded and unthreaded, regularly. Personally, I try not to go below 1/28. A properly made 22lr/rimfire suppressor need not have an OD >1". A wall thk of .049 should do it, but I'd go .058. I very much do not like the look of...

Look at the design of the Ruger SR22 threaded barrel. There is no barrel protrusion. There is an adapter that replaces the thread protector and extends the barrel profile about 1/2" while also increasing the threaded diameter. You are likely to be better off with an adapter than with some othe...

I'd love to know more about your metering equipment. 116dB, on a 10" barrel, using HV ammo, from a 9mm design? I'm guessing your equipment doesn't meet Mil Std. There's no way HV ammo, coming out a barrel that long, and from a 9mm suppressor, will, not only remain subsonic, but yield metered re...

Either will work. It's really up to you. there's an ebay seller that has the 13/16 male threaded brakes and tube proximal end caps. Look for the guy with the state of texas outline as a logo.

Your spindle mounted cat's head looks extremely useful. How do you center the stock and indicate using the four screws closest to the spindle? You can do it a couple diff ways: 1. The ability to insert a dead center, into the spindle, is still present. 2. If you just use the screws, you'll move the...

That will work, but an outboard spider is not absolutely necessary. A lot depends on your equipment and what you're threading. Also, you should be able to indicate the chamber ID and not have to make a breech plug. The chamber was most likely cut w/ a piloted reamer and kept on the bore centerline. ...

d_lish wrote: ↑Thu Mar 19, 2020 6:17 pm, who have you had good luck with?

my lathe

Yeah,no. Those are glorified FPs. What's wrong with them? I just bought a set and seem really well made, do you know of any better options? Like, what the guy is asking? They're glorified freeze plugs, nothing special. Can they be used to suppress a firearm, yes. Are they the best option available,...

d_lish wrote: ↑Wed Mar 18, 2020 4:51 pm Wedgemachineworks.com has 1.370" cones but not 60 degree or in Ti.

Yeah,no. Those are glorified FPs.

We already have 3D printed titanium silencers Wow! Please supply some sources of this exciting advancement. Best. https://www.masterofarms.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=81 https://www.thefirearmblog.com/blog/2020/01/22/sig-3d-printed-silencers/ https://www.gunsamerica.com/dig...

The can also create masters for all sorts of casting. Search "lost pla casting" Yup. My buddy does some home mold making and casting. He had this tricky little widget he wanted to make and was going to make the template from wood, per usual. However, it was pretty intricate and probably w...

You do know that youtube account belongs to the owner of this forum, yes?
There was a thread on this, when he made the video.

get drops of 17-4. It's hardly expensive and usually cheaper than the typical materials recommended for learning (12L14).

Practice sharpening HSS tool bits. Good, sharp, HSS bits will cut just about any material you're going to turn, on your hobby lathe.

Bore and internally thread.
Make a male to male adapter, that threads into barrel and supplies threads for silencer.
It's done all the time, for pistol barrels, such as this.

HSS works fine.
Center drill
Drill with final size
Don't worry about reaming. Hole size precision isn't necessary.

@ECCO Machine
This is the best I found, w/ a limited search.

I had to look the X15 up, but unless you can guarantee a full heat treat (quite extensive cycle for this metal), 17-4 will be stronger. Also, from what I read, 17-4 looks to be easier to machine, if that's a prerequisite. Are you getting the X15 for free? If not, I can almost guarantee that 17-4 wil...

Yeah, I'd stick w/ the 60deg cones. You'll be hard pressed to mess up a build w/ them.
K's work, too, but can be finicky in their design and execution.
The Omega baffles, pictured above, take a bit of tuning as well. Not something for the novice, IMHO.

Just get a regular kit of 60deg cones. Try to get 8-12 baffles in it. If you have to cut the skirts, so be it. Give them all a single or double clip and call it a day. It's that easy.

Plenty of reputable engravers, for this type of thing, are around. But, w/o knowing your locale, I can't say shipping will make them the cheapest. As the good Cpt pointed out, go to some trophy shops. No need to divulge it's for a firearm, even if they ask. I do the electro-etch, at home, and it wor...

Hmm I haven't heard or read anything, regarding anything even close to that. But, back to the design. No, I don't think that giant bore would do well for 22lr, w/ or w/o a wipe. The G-core does a decent job, but not better than 60deg cones in the same size design. The Chinese copy may be close, but ...

Someone, on another forum, bought one of those monocores, which resembles the G-core. The bore was something like 7/16". Not promising for a 22lr.

Honestly, this is a pretty decent deal and you can buy additional cups for a reasonable price.

9x39 project by John A.