the titanium will handle ALOT more than what the 300 Blackout can throw at it unless you are running full auto or a super short barrel. The Griffen Sportsman is rated to 300 min mag and is made from all 7050. http://www.griffinarmament.com/Sportsman-300-Silencer-p/gastm30.htm It is a 10.5 inch barr...

Cerakote on the internals is is pointless. It's a great finish for the outside, but will not survive on the internals. I did my 10/22 integral monocore in Cerakote and even just rimfire quickly stripped it inside the chambers. what about hard chrome? I have no problem getting them hard chromed. Wha...

using 316 SS (even 304) as your blast baffle material would work fine and I doubt that you would ever wear it out unless you spend as much shooting as you do on your house note or unless you are running it full auto all the time. 17-4 is surely stronger that 316 but unless you have it on hand I wou...

Its worth a shot. Ill coat the 7 baffles after the blast baffle and see how it holds up. Ill order some 17-4 and use that for the blast baffle. Cerakote on the internals is is pointless. It's a great finish for the outside, but will not survive on the internals. I did my 10/22 integral monocore in ...

fishman wrote:why didnt you thread the rear cap all the way through with the threads that attach to the barrel? doing so would cut some weight.

That was just a modeling error, it will be bored and threaded all the way through and has been corrected on the updated model.

he could still us the 303ss for the build, but i would perhaps add a coating http://www.cerakotehightemp.com/ I am set up to do cerakote but I don't think it would last very long inside the can. add a thin blast chamber spacer, and 1st baffle out of a better material, then coat the rest. should sur...

i dont have the experience necessary to answer that. if i had to guess, 308 slow fire would be fine. and 300 blackout subsonic rapid fire should be alright, but idk if i would rapid fire supersonic rounds. you should make the blast baffle out of 17-4. period. no reason not to. I don't want to have ...

What part of NC? Is your tube already threaded? Might not be able to do that on a 7x12 - they run out of real estate pretty quick :) Keep in mind 303 isn't as 'stainless' as one would expect - it will require regular maintenance. Machines nice though. he could still us the 303ss for the build, but ...

What part of NC? Is your tube already threaded? Might not be able to do that on a 7x12 - they run out of real estate pretty quick :) Keep in mind 303 isn't as 'stainless' as one would expect - it will require regular maintenance. Machines nice though. I am in Raleigh. I have measured and I can just...

In regards to the 17-4, it weighs about the same as 316 (.280 lbs/in3 vs .289 lbs/in3). How would it be the best of both worlds? 17-4 is stronger than other stainless so you could make it thinner, therefore lighter. it would also take heat cycles better than the titanium Oh I see. I hadn't consider...

The Ti will be stronger (yield strength), initially. However, the SS will hold its strength through a greater heat range. If you don't plan on getting the can insanely hot, for extended periods, the Ti will pay off. If you want the best of both worlds, go with 17-4. More work to turn from bar stock...

After lightening up the end cap and mount, and switching the baffles from stepped to cones, the estimated weight is 17.25 oz. Switching the tube and spacers from SS to Ti brings the weight down to 12.5 oz. The new tube would cost $29.25 vs the $17.23 using 316 Stainless. Those prices are for Grade ...

After lightening up the end cap and mount, and switching the baffles from stepped to cones, the estimated weight is 17.25 oz. Switching the tube and spacers from SS to Ti brings the weight down to 12.5 oz. The new tube would cost $29.25 vs the $17.23 using 316 Stainless. Those prices are for Grade 9...

.2 is at least twice as thick as it needs to be for your end capt shoulder. .5 in threads is more than necessary on your end cap. Too imo. Since that's all full diameter that should help your weight a bit. Going to ti spacers since ti tubing is cheap would help some but not much. Step cones have mo...

exactly, look at the endcap on the 300 BLK design im working on right now. the 8 holes are for a spanner wrench to aid in disassembly, just like you mentioned. i did 8, 4 would be fine. you could drill the holes from the inside if you dont like the look of them. they would lessen weight but wouldnt...

fishman wrote:i would either drill holes in the rear cap to lighten it, or hollow it out similarly to the front cap is

Maybe 4 holes at 12,3,6, and 9 oclock? That would lighten it a bit and I could make a wrench to help with dissassembly. Thank you for the tip, I hadn't thought of that.

Hi everyone, I am working on a supressor design primarily for a 24" .308 bolt action. It will also see use on a 10.5" 300blk occasionally. I have been machining for about 6 months now and I use a 7x12 mini lathe and I also have a C2 mini mill. I am confident that I will be able to perform ...