Pay the money and do it the right way, otherwise you'll just be unhappy with the end product trying to save $200. Pray tell, what exactly is the 'right way'? And where would one find the book with all the rules so that I can know for sure I'm doing it 'right'? I assume that your suggestion of doing...

wondering what are the downsides of using a permanently attached suppressor on a short barrel to bring the length up to 16"? I am thinking of a 300 aac, and a form 1 suppressor in an AR package. I really don't want to have to form1 an SBR too, the cost starts making this not fun and even unmana...

Pneumatic hammer is what i see. Would cause damage to the threads. I was our Fire Departments SCBA (air Pack) repair tech for several years. Scott brand had moving pistons and valves in the packs that had no springs, all movement was controlled by air pressure on both sides of the piston. On the hi...

Pneumatic hammer is what i see. Would cause damage to the threads. I was our Fire Departments SCBA (air Pack) repair tech for several years. Scott brand had moving pistons and valves in the packs that had no springs, all movement was controlled by air pressure on both sides of the piston. On the hi...

In theory or are you planning on building one? I would build a 300blackout can so you could shoot 5.56 through it as well. I have my trust paperwork, about to send off a form 1. I had originally thought I would build a 5.56 for an AR. Basically I have "most' of another ar15 in parts laying aro...

I have thought of something similar to this. What about putting the spring on the outside somehow, maybe at the exit end of the baffle stack so that it is not exposed to combustion gasses? Also, I had thought about as the baffle stack moves from the pressure build up, it exposes relief holes that ar...

Given similar equipment, abilities, and design, would it be easier to make an effective can for 300aac or 5.56? I know shooting subs in the 300 will help more than most anything else, but what about considering shooting full power as well?

Baffled: Another option is to send money via PayPal/etc to someone trusted in a country like New Zealand that can try out your theory. Maybe for only $20-25 depending on design and components. Since tube and endcaps can be reused, it's far cheaper than paying ATF "Bloodmoney" for a one ch...

Ah yes, terminology...... thanks for the help. Now I see, the 'depth' of the cone is determined by the OD and the angle. It was late, and my brain wasn't working when I was thinking of this last night. I am reminded of the classic exchange; "Please drop the vernacular!" "It's not a ve...

what is the correlation of depth of the cone to effectiveness? How deep does it need to be, is there any equation to it?

Do any current or recent production cans use "M" baffles?

Specifically in 5.56 cans?

I can't stop reading this thread, while i'm waiting on my form 1.

would making it longer or thicker help sound reduction at all?

Last baffle to front cap is what I mean. No reason to have that unused space. Add baffles or move cap back. Extra space should be used or ditched As mentioned above, volume is best used at muzzle for blast chamber. Any empty space near can exit is of little value. The space between the last baffle ...

I've already been told as much. The good Captain was kind enough to exchange emails prior to posting the idea here. I only posted the idea here so that the next guy that comes along with that idea can see that it has been thought of and shot down.

maybe to help explain:

think of a flat baffle such as a simple washer. Instead of a clearance hole for the bullet to pass through, the bullet passes through a tube.

Mr Fixit: Could you explain the blue "bullet seal" section in your pic. Is is a wipe, diffractor or what. Invert the shape and it is simmilar to Finnish Reflex designs. If you use a wipe on a supersonic projectile, chances are it will disintegrate. At best it will destabilize and cause ke...

end space of 1.5" after all baffles to rear cap? ditch that idea and add a couple of baffles. To rear cap? The 1.5" space was to be the last chamber of the stack then exit downrange. are we saying the same thing? I would have sworn I read in a post on this forum that a larger final chambe...

My trust paperwork is done, I just need to get all the parties in front of a notary and then send off a form 1. I would like some help on a design I can make myself. I'll go ahead and apologize up front to some of you folks here, because I don't have a lathe. I know that makes what I want to do look...

Thanks Historian, but I'm looking at .223/5.56

As of right now I am finishing up my Trust paperwork (maybe it will do some good, we'll see). Then I intend to Form 1 a .223/5.56 can.

Thanks especially to Capt.Link., he sent me a PM and I emailed my idea and a simple drawing. He very politely told me I was not destined to be a multimillionaire from my suppressor designs skills. Pity, that. But in all fairness I thought I should man up and show the group my idea. So, below is the ...

doubloon wrote:ironically Scott Clearman is a patent attorney in Texas

I know him, barely, and we are related. I did not know he did patent work.

If you want a 'piece of the pie', you gotta buy the ingredients. Byrdman I guess I'll just have to post the recipe and see how it goes. I don't have the money, time, or true desire to 'fight the fight'. So, I'll work on some drawings so I can show my concept and maybe you guys can tell me if it wou...

I still think the idea in my head has merit. Here is the big question for me: Is there someone here, preferably an industry professional, that I can run my idea by with out giving up any 'ownership' of the design/idea? It may be a silly idea, it probably is. It may be that it has been tried, but I c...

Its a European design. A properly designed reflex can can have awesome results compared to a muzzle mounted can. Although the amount of work that goes into it is generally throws it in the custom can arena for optimal results. For commercial purposes reflex offers little enhancement over the muzzle...

how well does this design work in .223/5.56 and .308?