I'm a rookie myself but I want to say most people run .250-.280" I've also seen some do small to large on the apertures (closer to the muzzle tighter and larger towards the endcap. .090 is way overkill on thickness as is 1.230" OD most people run 1" OD 5-6" long for rimfire suppr...

Hmm. well I think it goes without saying that a brake adds a second benefit as it acts as a sacrificial baffle that is replaceable. Here's my take on the subject. Can #1 would be the most versatile. Reasons being 1 the sacrificial baffle aspect, 2. you could modify your brakes to act differently (ex...

Cool information! glad you had good results. I was going to try Ti my first go around but got a little gunshy and didn't really have the money to buy more bar if I did screw up so I opted for carbon steels this go around 4340(baffles) and 4130 tube/endcaps. Were you using coolant? When I asked for g...

how does it sound?

Holy cow! well I guess I shouldn't complain about how small my machine is! excellent work and even more impressive that you did it with such a small machine.

So I take it that lathe breaks down and turns into a mini mill or do you own the same brand of mill?

i'm no machinist. just a hobbiest but looking at this chart I have .5mm is almost 51tpi :shock: pretty small! ECCO Machine was mentioning that he runs 28-32 on most of his cans(.045-.035 wall) but has run as small as high 30's or low 40's (was on a .028" walled rimfire can but I cant remember o...

You can leave the half nut engaged and just back out the cross slide, reverse machine, zero the cross slide, advance your compound and turn machine back the correct direction since you don't have a dial. This is actually how I still do my threading. still figuring it out. I've gotten pretty comforta...

wow that's fantastic!

Get to turning!

Thanks for the help guys. I'll stick to plunge cutting for now and check the angle of the advance with the fish tool one of these days. I'm kinda OCD and would like to know what i'm doing wrong of if it's something else. I usually have a fairly good grasp on these types of things but this one has be...

The mark on the compound rest needs to be set to 90* using these markings,unfortunately the degree circle is not complete on most Chi-Com lathes.The cross slide and the compound now will travel in the same direction when set to Zero. Next swing the compound towards the chuck 29.5* degrees from your...

hmm I think I'm more confused. lol I have my compound setup like the picture, I use the fish tail gauge to center the tool to the work and I advance the compound into the work as the picture describes. now how accurate the compound is that I haven't checked. at 0' the handle is facing the tailstock ...

1rflman wrote:Is your compound set to 29.5* on the graduated scale, or is it actually set past 55* to 59.5* on the scale?

29.5'

ECCO if you don't mind me asking. How did that bottom far right baffle work out? I was thinking of doing something similar on a future compact can build to squeeze in more baffles in a short length. Thanks Are you meaning the light grey bead blasted steel one with a radiused clip, or the small, dir...

I agree the straight plunge is so much easier. I didn't realize that was possible until a few days ago.

here's an endcap that was a flop.

So I have been struggling with threading on my machine and I'm wondering if it's me or the lathe itself. Whats going on is my threads look like angled steps rather than perfect peaks. (like 1 side of the thread is steeper than the other) Today based off advice in another thread I tried plunging stra...

ECCO if you don't mind me asking. How did that bottom far right baffle work out? I was thinking of doing something similar on a future compact can build to squeeze in more baffles in a short length.

Thanks

Thank you for taking the time to take those photo's. going to measure up my machine but not looking to promising as your belt drive is way different. Oh well.

Nothing wrong with designing baffles in your head. I've done that too. My blackout baffles rolled around in my head for literally years before I attempted to make them. Sometimes though, I see something and my mind goes immediately to: I bet that would make a good baffle. Or, a good tube, or whatev...

In college, everything was a bong. :lol: lol funny. I had 2 stoners as dorm mates and that is no lie! they used everything from toilet paper rolls with tin foil, apples, sobe bottles, and one of the crazy bastards even welded himself up a intricate one in fab class. Instructors were oblivioius or j...

I went with military'esq names mostly to minimize lettering. lol

30 cal mod 0
9mm mod 1

just the other day I was replacing some shocks on a 3/4 ton truck and looked at the washer and was like huh. I bet this is what surefire uses in their cans. :lol: it was a hemispherical washer with flat edges. the same curvature of a surefire can i've seen. But I agree with ECCO I dream of designs q...

That should give you some serious capabilities. When you get a chance It would be great if you took a picture of belt/gear drive setup and length of spindle. Its looking like I'll be trying to get the spindle and fit it into my machine

CO2 would only purge the O2 in my eyes just eliminating FRP like you mentioned.. There is a cooling effect as it expands I get that it's cold as hell when it changes from a liquid to a gas but I'm sure that dissipates rapidly in said environment. Now if you had a way to introduce it while shooting ...

CO2 would only purge the O2 in my eyes just eliminating FRP like you mentioned. One of the Deputies I work with said he uses shaving cream as an ablative in rifle cans. never heard of that as I thought ablatives in a rifle can were a no no.

the one way check valve sounds like it could work. One option that i'd look into is those mini grease guns. I have one for my air tools that you just use your thumb to pump it. they even make them that screw onto tubes of grease. you could fill it full of lithium grease and would be quick and easy t...