Why did you leave off C350? :( UTS 342 @ ~58Rc :lol: I don't consider carbon, manganese or nickel steels for suppressors. Maraging steels have enough Ni to be more corrosion resistant than many grades, but they're not stainless. I have an endless supply of 440 stainless should I just consider using...

I just didn't want to use stainless because it is so heavy, although I have plenty of 316 or 17-4ph around. This isn't going to see extreme useage by any means so I didn't think it was important that I have ultra strong resistant materials, my goal was weight If you have the ability to TIG weld cir...

the machining aspect should not be an issue. I have plenty of experience machining tough metals like 316, copper and bronze. The titanium I've practiced on seems to machine kind of like 316 from a hardness perspective and copper from a gritty rough cut perspective as far as I can tell, but finishes...

Go with the skirted 60° cones, use 8 or 9 of them in your tube, depending on muzzle device protrusion into can. Start with the full .75" skirt, then .65, .6, .55, .5, .45, .4, .375, and make the final one pretty short where it butts to the end cap. I run .30 bores at .370" with a single ra...

they don't have an exact size listed for the diameter just D-cell, isn't there a agreed upon size for D-Cell components? Live and learn I guess.. Yes, 1.354"-1.356" is standard for the 1.360" ID You can get .004" shim stock pretty inexpensively to deal with the disparity. That's...

So how much clearance would be ideal for a suppressor you want to remain serviceable? Shooting mostly subs will result in some pretty substantial carbon buildup I'd imagine, making it harder to remove the stack. Would .010" be too much play between the ID of the tube and the OD of the cups ya ...

Yeah..I was afraid someone would say something to that effect. I was planning on running subs only, but after reading your input, I think I may opt for a bunch more Ti baffles and use the aluminum ones for the last few? not sure. The problem with such thin skirts on aluminum baffles (and not necess...

The cups have .018 thick skirts on the aluminum. I don't even go that thin on rimfire baffle skirts, which are much smaller diameter, half the length, and I use alloy 7068-T6511, which I can pretty well guarantee your cups are not; 7075 if you're lucky, good chance they're 6061. Best of luck. Be ve...

get drops of 17-4. It's hardly expensive and usually cheaper than the typical materials recommended for learning (12L14). This. You can't really "practice" with materials that have vastly different mechanical & thermal properties from what you'll be using, especially on a wiggly littl...

mr fixit wrote: ↑Mon Mar 02, 2020 4:32 pm

ECCO Machine wrote: ↑Sun Mar 01, 2020 10:39 am Yup

Thank you sir. With that configuration, have you found blast chamber to be an issue with first round pop? I'm assuming putting the face of the blast baffle about 1/4-3/8" off the muzzle.

Thereabouts for rimfire, a little more for centerfire pistol in most tubes.

mr fixit wrote: ↑Sat Feb 29, 2020 6:33 pm When you say "double radius clipped" I'm understanding 2 scoop type clips 180* apart. Would that be correct?

Yup

I played with quite a few K baffle designs in pistol cans. Ultimately, tightly spaced double radius clipped 60° cones outperformed all the K baffle designs. I was actually happy about that, because even though Ks are more material efficient, I can make cones in about 1/3 the time, including the inde...

While I wouldn't expect the larger can to be dramatically louder as you're describing, excessive internal volume absolutely can work against you, causing pressure to attenuate too quickly and not do what it's supposed to do with internal features, like hitting the clips & disrupting laminar flow...

I'm curious how the crown gets finished when counter-boring for an adapter like this, or even more so when something like a 10-22 bull barrel gets used as a short barrel with integrally machined suppressor as we've seen displayed a couple of times on these forums. Seems getting the finish just righ...

The AJ Guns booster is garbage. Hard pass The Liberty is the best one, but you pay a little more for it. SDTA boosters have aluminum housings, but seem to hold up fine. Tolerances and fit & finish on the examples I've seen are good, and their pricing is very reasonable, especially with extra pis...

I was commissioned to build several of these, made a few extras while I was set up, figuring there are likely other people needing them, since Tar Heel State no longer produces such a critter. https://i.imgur.com/h60a8gF.jpg Tar Heel was charging $98 for theirs, I'm doing $90 shipped on these guys. ...

XD15 seems to be a variant of 440C with inproved corrosion resistance from what I can find. One thing to remember about the 440 class alloys is that, despite being the hardest & strongest of SS alloys, they are not designed for high temperature environments. I can't find the property sheet speci...

1hank1 wrote: ↑Mon Dec 30, 2019 12:04 pm

ECCO Machine wrote: ↑Mon Dec 30, 2019 9:37 am If you're trying to make a filter, sure. Converted into suppressor baffles? Hard pass.

Just out of curiosity, what makes them not a good option? Is it the design or material or both?

They're soft aluminum, they're really thick, and the angle is too obtuse.

1hank1 wrote: ↑Mon Dec 30, 2019 9:10 am Are these worth considering?
https://oldphatvet.com/products?olsPage ... minum-cups

If you're trying to make a filter, sure. Converted into suppressor baffles? Hard pass.

YugoRPK wrote: ↑Sat Dec 28, 2019 3:28 pm What do you think? Heading back to AAC for an evaluation?

Yep. That's what warranties are for, and I'm sure AAC will get you squared away. Probably out-of-spec threads

What is the general consensus on clipping blast baffles? I've read a ton of conflicting opinions on whether it should be done or not.. This is going on a long range rifle, so accuracy is of high priority. Is there any specific dimensions that seem to perform better than others for clips? Also, does...

The griffin taper attachment system is easy to machine on your own. You can make your own brakes, buy them from griffin, or a mix of the two. On that note, the print that is often posted for those is wrong. The 1"-20 threads are correct, but that's it. The correct included taper is 16°, and th...

I am hoping to stick with 1.5" x 8" at this point. I am a little concerned about the tubing wall thickness around the threaded section of the tube.. If I thread it to 1.4375-24 there is only going to be about .030" of Wall thickness remaining, which is pretty thin for the amount of p...

bna5017 wrote: ↑Fri Dec 27, 2019 6:13 am Thanks guys. I've changed the tube to .054" wall grade 9 titanium. Anything jump out at you as far as the general design goes that you think I should be concerned about?

Since you're making all your own parts, a couple things do, but first:

What length and diameter did you settle on?

I was not planning on it, I have a call in with a material supplier who is working on a quote for 17-4 tubing for me. I would rather use titanium, but had not come across a decent source yet. That looks like a good place to start! Thank you! They're gonna come back with a price you won't want to pa...