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PostPosted: Sat Jan 06, 2018 4:33 am 
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Silent But Deadly
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Hi Guys,
Thought you might want to see and to pass on ideas, here is a drill jig that I made for drilling off the barrels on the suppressed 410s'. I have a few to do so instead of hours on the mill indexing for the holes, I made a drill jig, complete with different bore bushes for locating on the taper of the barrel (as it gets smaller). I can get all the porting holes now quickly drilled off by hand and save hours but also achieve repeatable accuracy.

Easy for me a with a toolmaking background but always a good idea if doing multiples to spend a few mins and think " can I make this easier"

I am always happy to make suggestions if you have anything you are struggling with.

Cheers

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 06, 2018 9:39 am 
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Are all the ports antipodal to another?

I can't drill anything by hand without hitting whatever is on the other side. :(

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 06, 2018 1:57 pm 
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doubloon wrote:
Are all the ports antipodal to another?

I can't drill anything by hand without hitting whatever is on the other side. :(


After looking up Antipoidal ha ha, yes they are but I just drill off one side at a time, that siad your issue with going through is easy to fix, just work out the depth you need to go to and wrap a lod of tape around the drill bit to act as a depth indicator. if you need a physical stop use a bit of wooden dowel cut to length on the drill bit.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 06, 2018 7:45 pm 
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I slide a piece of wooden dowel rod down the barrel when drilling out gas ports. Keeps me from hitting the other side when I break through.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 06, 2018 7:49 pm 
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cdakers wrote:
I slide a piece of wooden dowel rod down the barrel when drilling out gas ports. Keeps me from hitting the other side when I break through.


Great idea

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 06, 2018 11:45 pm 
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cdakers wrote:
I slide a piece of wooden dowel rod down the barrel when drilling out gas ports. Keeps me from hitting the other side when I break through.

Yes it is.

Used backers before but it didn't occur to me to insert a backer into the tube.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 10, 2018 4:03 pm 
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If you wish to increase the velocity drop better try porting like H&K.Lots of ports over a short distance causes a gas dump not a slow bleed like a long string of ports.This has been proven to work best according to history .So your first row of ports would be starting at 3.500" if you use 3.00" shells.This allows for the pedals of the shell to open and not block the ports.Study this picture and allow 1 or more diameters between holes.I would start w/ .500 length of ports and test if you hear the sonic boom.Add or subtract to find the best number of ports.I would take some time to debur and polish to eliminate the plastic shavings.A bonus to porting very close to the chamber is less ports are needed and the pressure and heat help clear the ports.

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PS: Most drill presses have a drill depth stop.I use mine for drilling and tapping when depth is critical.A drill bit of known diameter can be used to set the depth.

I wish everyone health and prosperity in this new year.

-CL

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2018 9:04 pm 
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Capt. Link. wrote:
So your first row of ports would be starting at 3.500" if you use 3.00" shells.This allows for the pedals of the shell to open and not block the ports.

A fired 3 inch shell is 3 inches long. The ports dont need to start 3.5" down.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 12, 2018 7:24 pm 
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fishman wrote:
Capt. Link. wrote:
So your first row of ports would be starting at 3.500" if you use 3.00" shells.This allows for posting.php?mode=quote&f=10&t=139022&p=949673#the pedals of the shell to open and not block the ports.

A fired 3 inch shell is 3 inches long. The ports dont need to start 3.5" down.

I've honestly have never measured a spent or live .410 shell. I prefer the shorter shells and would need to allow for the shell to open if I was porting for it........The idea being don't block the ports.......

-CL

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 13, 2018 1:42 am 
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Capt. Link. wrote:
...
I've honestly have never measured a spent or live .410 shell. I prefer the shorter shells and would need to allow for the shell to open if I was porting for it........The idea being don't block the ports.......

-CL

I believe all shell lengths as quoted are the length of the un-crimped shell.

It's the length of the unfolded hull that is important for chamber clearance, you don't want the hull unfolding into the bore.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 13, 2018 3:46 am 
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Well done.
I used a Shotgun barrel porting jig. Like the "U port it."

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tool ... 15478.aspx

Came with bushings. Used it for customer work on shortbarrel Shotgun and was great on porting 12 ga for integrals. Spacing on it was great to. Shortstory the chamber I skipped every other hole. A spare dril in a bushing allowed you to stay on track for the remainder of the barrel for longer series.

Gunny


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 13, 2018 5:14 pm 
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I drill the first set of holes about 2 inches past the end of the chamber so no issues there. I am on the third gun now and the jig is working just great, using it to just drill all holes at a pilot size of 2.8mm then easy enough to open up by hand as required and finish with a reamer thus getting a small burr in the bore that can be honed out.

Update on the design, I took the first production gun to a shoot yesterday and have to say the performance is just fantastic, it is that quiet a few though they were duds, with a report like a VERY well suppressed 22 and I actually hit more clays with this than my 12G ha ha.

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