rust

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rust

Post by sub-sonic » Tue Jan 01, 2013 5:00 pm

so I used my sealed 30 cal can on my SKS and used cheap surplus ammo. It was fun. I fired around 300 shots. I put the can in the safe and left it for around 4 months. I get it out today and its totally rusty on the inside.
with out opening it up whats my options if any?
I have it in a bucket of oil now
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Re: rust

Post by Bendersquint » Tue Jan 01, 2013 5:19 pm

sub-sonic wrote:so I used my sealed 30 cal can on my SKS and used cheap surplus ammo. It was fun. I fired around 300 shots. I put the can in the safe and left it for around 4 months. I get it out today and its totally rusty on the inside.
with out opening it up whats my options if any?
I have it in a bucket of oil now
You are doing the only remedy to dealing with rust in a sealed can.

What can?

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Re: rust

Post by Capt. Link. » Tue Jan 01, 2013 5:34 pm

If its carbon steel you do have options other than oil.
The only reason after 243 years the government now wants to disarm you is they intend to do something you would shoot them for!

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Re: rust

Post by MV10 » Tue Jan 01, 2013 5:50 pm

Capt. Link. wrote:If its carbon steel you do have options other than oil.
CLR? Or is that too harsh?
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Re: rust

Post by CMV » Tue Jan 01, 2013 5:58 pm

I have some stuff in a gray bottle that comes from Harbor Freight (& probably elsewhere). It's called EvapoRust. You just dunk the rusty stuff in it for 30 min to overnight depending on how bad it is. I haven't tried it on anything pitted/really bad, but it makes quick work of surface rust. That & a bottle brush would probably do wonders for you.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lsyAg77ljKE Here's a video of some in use. The guy didn't seem too impressed with it but it looks like it did a good job to me considering how little effort was involved.

Also wondered about using it in a US cleaner - that might be a good method to get the insides where a bottle brush won't reach.
Last edited by CMV on Tue Jan 01, 2013 6:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: rust

Post by Capt. Link. » Tue Jan 01, 2013 6:02 pm

MV10 wrote:
Capt. Link. wrote:If its carbon steel you do have options other than oil.
CLR? Or is that too harsh?
No you can chemically change iron oxide (red rust) to ferric oxide (black rust) and that can be passivated into a neutral state.
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Re: rust

Post by Bendersquint » Tue Jan 01, 2013 7:33 pm

Capt. Link. wrote:
MV10 wrote:
Capt. Link. wrote:If its carbon steel you do have options other than oil.
CLR? Or is that too harsh?
No you can chemically change iron oxide (red rust) to ferric oxide (black rust) and that can be passivated into a neutral state.
go on.......

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Re: rust

Post by chrismartin » Tue Jan 01, 2013 8:06 pm

Couldn't you also remove the rust with electrolysis?

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Re: rust

Post by vz58 » Tue Jan 01, 2013 8:43 pm

There is a rust converter type solution you use on old cars to turn the rust into a hard black coating.... It might be the same stuff you are mentioning.

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Re: rust

Post by Bendersquint » Tue Jan 01, 2013 8:53 pm

vz58 wrote:There is a rust converter type solution you use on old cars to turn the rust into a hard black coating.... It might be the same stuff you are mentioning.
You could always soak it in CocaCola, I have been told that it dissolves rust!

As far as preventing more there are some very costly solutions IF you can 100% remove the rust prior to the processing.

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Re: rust

Post by Capt. Link. » Tue Jan 01, 2013 9:23 pm

Sorry for long delay cutting threads 8) tonight.
You are right chrismartin give that man a +1
But after wards the metal must be sealed or rust will continue.
All oil must be removed dawn dish soap is best.You must scour the metal of rust scale.If you plug the holes with dowel pins and use a lathe or rock tumbler sand or another abrasive could be used.
A mild acid or iodine will etch the metal and bring out fresh mild rust.Boiling water will change the red rust to Black ferric oxide. Ammonia will halt the rusting.
You must have a even coat of fine rust as that will protect the metal.Boiling times between acid treatments is 5 to 10 minutes.followed by a hour long boil in fresh water then the ammonia and flush with clear water add a little oil and your done.Or clean the hell out of it remove all the oil and drop it in a pot of caustic bluing salts.PM me I have bluing pots :D
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Re: rust

Post by fastfire » Wed Jan 02, 2013 12:52 am

vz58 wrote:There is a rust converter type solution you use on old cars to turn the rust into a hard black coating.... It might be the same stuff you are mentioning.
The stuff they use in body shops is called Rust Mort, stops rust and turns it black.

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Re: rust

Post by MV10 » Wed Jan 02, 2013 8:11 am

I sometimes do the same thing on parts for my '55 Buick with citric acid powder. I bought a big old bag of it on ebay (something like 15 pounds of the stuff) for about $20, and a few teaspoons of it mixed with a gallon of water will clean up old bolts and other small parts in a few hours. However, that black layer has to be scrubbed clean afterwards, which is why I didn't suggest it.

On the other hand, rusted parts that I've cleaned with CLR (which is considerably more expensive, relatively speaking) will come clean with a simple rinse-off.

Citric acid is the reason Coke and certain other food products will remove rust.
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Re: rust

Post by Historian » Wed Jan 02, 2013 9:27 am

MV10 wrote:I sometimes do the same thing on parts for my '55 Buick with citric acid powder. I bought a big old bag of it on ebay (something like 15 pounds of the stuff) for about $20, and a few teaspoons of it mixed with a gallon of water will clean up old bolts and other small parts in a few hours. However, that black layer has to be scrubbed clean afterwards, which is why I didn't suggest it.

On the other hand, rusted parts that I've cleaned with CLR (which is considerably more expensive, relatively speaking) will come clean with a simple rinse-off.

Citric acid is the reason Coke and certain other food products will remove rust.
Compliments on your good taste in having a '55 Buick. A gem of the CENTURY.
Around 3K if I remember.
The two front 'Dolly Partons' were on our 1956 Sedan de Ville. Made applying Blue Coral
fun for a young man. :)

Back to the more mundane, rust. I have successfully, as posted here sometime ago,
use white vinegar in a plastic pan over night. Then washed with baking soda and water.
I then take quadruple zero steel wool ( XXXX ) to shine the metal. Finish with a wipe of
30W motor oil.

Still having developing chemicals such as a gallon of glacial acetic acid I occasionally mix
10cc's into a quart of water ... N.B. order, please, acid poured slowly into the water, else
reverse order produces a dangerous splash.

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Re: rust

Post by sub-sonic » Wed Jan 02, 2013 6:19 pm

this is my 30cal freeze plug silencer
I have it in oil but I will wash it out and try CLR then try to find a way to prevent it rusting again
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Re: rust

Post by CMV » Wed Jan 02, 2013 7:14 pm

I'd try the Evapo-Rust first just because it is less aggressive & harmless to the base metal. And CLR sucks - even for basic household use like getting the white chalky buildup (calcium) off a faucet or showerhead or getting a rust stain off porcelain it just doesn't do a good job.

Whatever you use, as prevention maybe blow it out real good with compressed air after the final rinse & use a fogging oil like what you'd use for putting an engine in storage? Or just dunk in oil & let the excess drip out
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Re: rust

Post by mollinst » Wed Jan 02, 2013 8:28 pm

OXY-CLEAN!!! I'll spare you the commercial parody but, imagine Billy Mazing in your minds... :D

Seriously, there's no reason why you shouldn't take as good a care of your suppressors as you do your guns. After every shoot, I do the bottle brush routine with break-free, blow out the can, and shoot a little Rem-oil or WD-40 in there. Then they're put back in the box with a silica gel packet. The bottle brush doesn't get everywhere in there but, I figure it can't hurt and, probably helps somewhat.

It may only be a "feel good" measure on my part but, it's cheap insurance and, I've never had rust... Anywhere.
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Re: rust

Post by sub-sonic » Wed Jan 02, 2013 9:29 pm

mollinst wrote:OXY-CLEAN!!! I'll spare you the commercial parody but, imagine Billy Mazing in your minds... :D

Seriously, there's no reason why you shouldn't take as good a care of your suppressors as you do your guns. After every shoot, I do the bottle brush routine with break-free, blow out the can, and shoot a little Rem-oil or WD-40 in there. Then they're put back in the box with a silica gel packet. The bottle brush doesn't get everywhere in there but, I figure it can't hurt and, probably helps somewhat.

It may only be a "feel good" measure on my part but, it's cheap insurance and, I've never had rust... Anywhere.

I clean mine one time a year even if they dont need it
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Re: rust

Post by mollinst » Thu Jan 03, 2013 8:56 am

Yeah - every 1000 rnds whether it needs it or not! :lol:
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Re: rust

Post by Historian » Thu Jan 03, 2013 9:02 am

sub-sonic wrote:
mollinst wrote:OXY-CLEAN!!! I'll spare you the commercial parody but, imagine Billy Mazing in your minds... :D

Seriously, there's no reason why you shouldn't take as good a care of your suppressors as you do your guns. After every shoot, I do the bottle brush routine with break-free, blow out the can, and shoot a little Rem-oil or WD-40 in there. Then they're put back in the box with a silica gel packet. The bottle brush doesn't get everywhere in there but, I figure it can't hurt and, probably helps somewhat.

It may only be a "feel good" measure on my part but, it's cheap insurance and, I've never had rust... Anywhere.

I clean mine one time a year even if they dont need it
Dang nab it, is this not what Harry Reid says about his personal hygiene? :)

Speaking about Dingy Harry, heard yesterday that John Boehner who has been continually lambasted on the Senate
floor by Harry "for running the Congress like a dictator", ran across the Ichabod Crane of the Senate
in the White House lobby. Boehner was reported to have walked up to Harry and said "Go F--K yourself".

The shriveled snake was startled and taken aback. Again Boehner said "Go F--K yourself", and then walked away.
Can we hope that Boehner, who controls the Government's purse strings, shows the same testicular fortitude
for future dealings with the DemonRats? Including .....

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Re: rust

Post by mollinst » Thu Jan 03, 2013 7:10 pm

No Historian, I don't think Harry uses a bottle brush. :wink:
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Re: rust

Post by fastfire » Thu Jan 03, 2013 9:34 pm

sub-sonic wrote:so I used my sealed 30 cal can on my SKS and used cheap surplus ammo. It was fun. I fired around 300 shots. I put the can in the safe and left it for around 4 months. I get it out today and its totally rusty on the inside.
with out opening it up whats my options if any?
I have it in a bucket of oil now

Just wondering as to the condition of the rifle bore?
I always clean my bore the same day as it is fired, except one time, Few years back I forgot and cleaned my 10/22 5 days after I’d used it.
The barrel bore was PITTED :oops: I now use SS barrels when going suppressed.
I have read that ss barrels can rust but haven't experenced that yet.

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Re: rust

Post by sub-sonic » Fri Jan 04, 2013 1:29 am

mollinst wrote:Yeah - every 1000 rnds whether it needs it or not! :lol:
actually I have only cleaned this one (30cal) twice before and the 5.56 one has been cleaned 2 times in 4 years or 1 time for every 10K (guestimated)

fastfire wrote:
sub-sonic wrote:so I used my sealed 30 cal can on my SKS and used cheap surplus ammo. It was fun. I fired around 300 shots. I put the can in the safe and left it for around 4 months. I get it out today and its totally rusty on the inside.
with out opening it up whats my options if any?
I have it in a bucket of oil now

Just wondering as to the condition of the rifle bore?
I always clean my bore the same day as it is fired, except one time, Few years back I forgot and cleaned my 10/22 5 days after I’d used it.
The barrel bore was PITTED :oops: I now use SS barrels when going suppressed.
I have read that ss barrels can rust but haven't experenced that yet.

The rifle bore on the SKS is fine.The silencer was stored seperatlly. Yes I did clean the SKS
I am not big on cleaning. I have guns that have not been cleaned since last year. My AR has been used alot and I dont remember when it last got cleaned its got to be 6 months ago and I used it today and it still put in .25" at 100. Cleaning is over rated
I only clean my .22's when they start to malfunction. I would guess that half the guns I own need to be cleaned. Thats because I have not used the others since they were last cleaned

so back to my rust problem. I took it out of the oil and washed it in some degreaser and will take it to work tomorrow and run it in the parts cleaner a few times and see how it looks and then decide on whats the next step.
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Re: rust

Post by Capt. Link. » Fri Jan 04, 2013 5:55 am

If you ship it east I can drop it in the salt bath.
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Re: rust

Post by Historian » Fri Jan 04, 2013 9:27 am

mollinst wrote:No Historian, I don't think Harry uses a bottle brush. :wink:
+1!

Hey, many of us would gladly pay Rot-O-Rooter to loan him a 'brush' ...
clean out his tonsils at the same time. :)

Please, Bruce Tinsely, draw this up for us.

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