My first suppressor build. Done! .22lr 100% titanium

[gtpsrock]

Hey fellas,

Well, it's been a very long time coming, but it's complete! Been waiting years, and it only took a couple nights to design and build. I was the first to have our sheriff sign off on 2 Form 1's for me when Michigan's AG clarified the law and allowed them about and year and a half ago. Then I waited to send them in for a while (ie: saved my $400 up). Anyway, got them back last week after waiting 2 days shy of 6-months.

So, I designed this one up. I'm sure that it could have been better, but I think it works pretty well for my first go at it. I've been making adapters for P22's, GSG1911's, GSG5's, Sig Mosquito's and others for years now through my company and it has drove me crazy to not be able to have a real suppressor... until now

Enough yacking so here it is:

The first shots in this video:
http://youtu.be/s5f7f9D0pd4

















This little falla puked his guts out from spinning for 22 minutes!




Drilling solid bar with 1" drill for tube:


I was always taught that a lubed tool is a happy tool!




Next up will be spending some time researching and designing one for my other Form 1 that I have on hand for a .223/5.56

Cheers!
Paul

[delta9mda]

freaking awesome

i would have left the cones solid but otherwise that is sick

[John4045]

NICE!!!! Congrats on a great looking .22 can.

[CThomas]

Now that looks like some first rate metal fabricating.
That is a new twist on a baffle design for a form 1 for sure.

[L1A1Rocker]

Very interesting on the "twisted cone" design. I like the look of it.

[Enfield577]

Excellent work well done - if I only had CNC to play with

[nutshot]

Thats awesome Love the spiral cones , very very cool

Worth anodising the threads on the caps and tube , Ti is very prone to galling on threads if you don`t .

[57fairlane]

Thats awesome Love the spiral cones , very very cool

Worth anodising the threads on the caps and tube , Ti is very prone to galling on threads if you don`t .

That would be my only concern . . . titainum to titanium threading will gall.

But otherwise looks great.

whats the weight?

[Fulmen]

Outstanding work!

[twodollarbill]

Somebody's been holding out on us......Very Nice!!!

[Historian]

Your name is appropriate ... you Rock!

Your machining skills, design sense, and execution are overwhelming.

I personally feel like the grade school kid who showed up at Foxboro with his
football to see the New England Patriots practice and sat riveted as Tom
Brady threw his passes.

Verbal compliments cannot express my admiration.

Many thanks for showing.

"And how should I hold my football, Tom?"

[joe0121]

Dude bad ass to say the least. Did you design that in cad? what Cad software did you use and can you post them up so we can R&D (ripoff and duplicate)

[1rosta]

Beautiful workmanship. What is its total weight?
Thanks for showing, can't wait for the other build.
Will it be based on this design or something different?

[Dr.K]

I like it.

So, does it suppress well?

[gunningbadger]

Absolutely beautiful work. Looks like a piece of art.

[rogerme]

Very sexy design..

[gtpsrock]

Thanks so much for all of your generous compliments. I've been on here occasionally since I registered here back 7 years ago. There is some serious talent and engineering skills of the members here so that means a lot!

As a few of you mentioned, I am also a bit concerned about the ti to ti threads. I learned this the hard way when I was 14 (almost 20 years ago) and machined some titanium tie rods for my 250r 4-wheeler and they seized up and that sucked (I never did get them apart). Anyway, hopefully a little anti-seize and the o-rings will help.

Dr.K: I think it does as good or better than I had hoped for. I have really only shot one suppressor on a .22 before and it was inside at a range so I honestly don't have much to compare it to. And like always, the video I put on YouTube doesn't really do it justice.

1rosta: I'll add a few more pictures. One of which is on a very accurate scale and shows 191.04g which converts to 6.74oz. Obviously heavier than any aluminum one, but less than a quarter oz heavier than the SS Sparrow though mine is .92" longer.

As far as the .223 can coming... I'm really not sure what I am going to do. If a modified version of this idea would work well I might look at doing that. I put 8" for the length on that one. When I start doing some design work on it I'll probably start a new thread as I'd love to have input from you guys on that one.

Joe0121: I designed it using Autodesk's Inventor, which is very similar to Solidworks but just so happens to be what we use at work. Which I only use maybe once or twice a month.

Historian: Thanks again for the comments. That's funny about the "Swarf"works. Not too many people catch that.

Parting off 1.25 bar between spindles. Drilled out 1/2 finished tube in right spindle.












5 gallons 'o titanium!

[Wicked]

Very nice. Most excellent lathe work. Interesting design too.

[joe0121]

I have inventor 2014 Pro and I feel like a kid who just got his drivers license trying to drive a Formula 1 car. I still haven't figured out the most efficient way to create a baffle cone.

[delta9mda]

my mistake i thought the spirals were all the way through the cone (looking on an iphone vs lap top).

beautiful work man, jedi status achieved

[JacksonBrowne]

Very nice work indeed

[nutshot]

As a few of you mentioned, I am also a bit concerned about the ti to ti threads. I learned this the hard way when I was 14 (almost 20 years ago) and machined some titanium tie rods for my 250r 4-wheeler and they seized up and that sucked (I never did get them apart). Anyway, hopefully a little anti-seize and the o-rings will help.

I wouldn`t take the gamble Fella. All the time and materials put into that silencer would be a dam shame if it got ruined for something as quick and easy as anodising it .

All you need is a low voltage dc power supply. For small parts like just the caps and tube threads you won`t need 1 amp so any bench top power supply will be adequate, to do the whole tube 5 amp should be plenty. You can just use a car battery to power it up if you have no power supply.
Get a plastic tub, mix a weak solution of distilled water and bicarbonate of soda (don`t make the solution look milky, just enough bicarb so it just looks like not pure water) . A small strip of lead or Ti foil as the cathode and a piece of Ti wire or thin Ti rod to attach your part to be anodised.
If you only wanted to anodise the threads and keep the end cap and tube nice shiny silver just mask of the area you want to stay silver. One of the easiest ways to mask off shapes like your end cap is to paint it with nail varnish as that`s easily removed with acetone and goes round any shapes. Any part that doesn`t enter the solution will not anodise so just paint the ends of the tube past the depth of your threads .
Negative terminal to the lead sheet , positive to your ti wire and part and just dip it in the bicarb solution . Its done in seconds . 12 volt will give you a bronze / gold colour anodise, higher voltage purples and blues. Most colours come under 30 volt

[paul463]

As a few of you mentioned, I am also a bit concerned about the ti to ti threads. I learned this the hard way when I was 14 (almost 20 years ago) and machined some titanium tie rods for my 250r 4-wheeler and they seized up and that sucked (I never did get them apart). Anyway, hopefully a little anti-seize and the o-rings will help.

I wouldn`t take the gamble Fella. All the time and materials put into that silencer would be a dam shame if it got ruined for something as quick and easy as anodising it .

All you need is a low voltage dc power supply. For small parts like just the caps and tube threads you won`t need 1 amp so any bench top power supply will be adequate, to do the whole tube 5 amp should be plenty. You can just use a car battery to power it up if you have no power supply.
Get a plastic tub, mix a weak solution of distilled water and bicarbonate of soda (don`t make the solution look milky, just enough bicarb so it just looks like not pure water) . A small strip of lead or Ti foil as the cathode and a piece of Ti wire or thin Ti rod to attach your part to be anodised.
If you only wanted to anodise the threads and keep the end cap and tube nice shiny silver just mask of the area you want to stay silver. One of the easiest ways to mask off shapes like your end cap is to paint it with nail varnish as that`s easily removed with acetone and goes round any shapes. Any part that doesn`t enter the solution will not anodise so just paint the ends of the tube past the depth of your threads .
Negative terminal to the lead sheet , positive to your ti wire and part and just dip it in the bicarb solution . Its done in seconds . 12 volt will give you a bronze / gold colour anodise, higher voltage purples and blues. Most colours come under 30 volt

Awesome. I was just going to search this info for my next F1 project.
Thanks.

[nutshot]

No prob Paul

A bit more info just in case your anodising for cosmetics make sure you clean the part thoroughly and dont touch it with your fingers before anodising . I attach the part to a piece of ti rod then wash with washing up liquid then give it good rinse off under the tap or it will show finger marks in the finish . If I`m just anodizing threads I just degrease with a bit of brake cleaner and don`t overly worry about touching it with my hands.
If you buy a bench top power supply colours are easy to control and very repeatable. I use a 0-120v 1 amp supply for small stuff like end caps or bolt handles as you have a bigger variety of colours. For bigger parts like tubes I have a 0-30v 10 amp supply but bronzey/gold , purple and blue are all you can get sub 30 volt.

[nice shot]

Im speechless. Thats a work of art.