This is a can for a 338 edge mainly for range use. I have focused on a durable and solid design rather than light weight.
300mm long, 42mm diameter and ca. 1200g.

Baffles of impax steel:



First baffle is 3mm thick, the rest are 2mm. Angle are 60 degrees from the center axis.

Outer tube of 304L 42mm




TIG-weld. (not a pro welder)


Clean up:




threading on rear, impax steel and M39,7x0,75mm threads




Everything:







Different thread inserts. (one blank because im not sure what the thread is on the 338 im getting in a couple of weeks. Probably its 5/8"-26 or 5/8"-28, but I only had a 5/8"-26 tap, so I have a blank ready for threading if the threads are different.




Here its mounted on a Blaser R93 with 6,5x55 or 30-06 sprg.


My first silencer for a high powered rifle... have only made muzzle brakes and 22lr silencers before.

Looks really great! My two questions though are 1.Why did you use welded seam tube instead of DOM and 2. Why didn't you go with 60 degree cones?

IAC533 wrote:Looks really great! My two questions though are 1.Why did you use welded seam tube instead of DOM and 2. Why didn't you go with 60 degree cones?

1: I went with the tube I had available. Paid nothing for the materials, and I think it'll work ok... The baffles seems to be aligned well.
2: to save material. didnt have that much of the good steel, and i'd rather have more 30 deg baffles than 60 degree cones.

DOM= drawn over mandrel, seamless

yea, I just found out I didn't want to spend time and money on a tube when I have one that probably will work fine (im a student )

Looks like a good job - well done

You must tell us how is sounds, when you get to try it

Your machining looks very nice.

Looks nice. My .338 is getting built now. Cool little (big) cartridge. Makes a .308 look like a .22 LR

looks good but performance will not be as great as with 60 degree cones. just saying

thanks guys, i'll post a video when ive got to try it.


a 300gr scenar next to a 223

@delta9mda, I know that 60 deg is optimal, but i believe that if you have a certain amount of material, many more blunt baffles might be more efficient than few sharp ones, just a guess...

Welcome.

Excellent machining.

Thank you for showing.


Best.

sirhitalot wrote:thanks guys, i'll post a video when ive got to try it.


a 300gr scenar next to a 223

@delta9mda, I know that 60 deg is optimal, but i believe that if you have a certain amount of material, many more blunt baffles might be more efficient than few sharp ones, just a guess...

.308 on left, 300 WM center 338 edge right. Makes a big boom

sirhitalot wrote:

IAC533 wrote:Looks really great! My two questions though are 1.Why did you use welded seam tube instead of DOM and 2. Why didn't you go with 60 degree cones?

1: I went with the tube I had available. Paid nothing for the materials, and I think it'll work ok... The baffles seems to be aligned well.
2: to save material. didnt have that much of the good steel, and i'd rather have more 30 deg baffles than 60 degree cones.

Great work man, that machining is top notch.

Happy hunting.

Great job

based on the measurements of the previous owner i thought the threads were 5/8"-26 tpi, but it was 5/8"-24 UNEF tpi
Therefore i will have to thread up the silencer inner thread insert blank to this thread before im able to test it. It does however go on a couple of turns so i can take some pictures for you





Rem 700, fully blueprinted, mcmillan and border barrel. Whyatts extended box mag (COL up to 100mm).

WOW, That thing looks great!!

thanks!
Its finally done with the correct threads. I also have made an internal muzzle brake to stop the gasses more efficiently:





Will probably be able to test it tomorrow. Will post video then.

Sweet!!! design on your break and placement.
Your plan is for it to act like a diffusser with-in the blast chamber...interesting design.
I would spot weld it in place so that it doesn't unscrew forward and
start rattling around inside

Outstanding, Sirhitalot. You have earned the Cellini Metal Master
Award for execution and a round of cheers for a powerful
and satisfying picture essay.

Inspiring.

Your talent and experience is easily inferred.

Thank you.

Thanks for the kind words!
Ive put together a short movie most of which is the pictures you've already seen, but at the end there are a couple of clips of me shooting it.
First clip a friend is using it with the defensive edge brake (note his lack of bipod pressure lets the rifle hop)
(and pardon the slight douchy music watching pictures without any music tends to get lame)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=28sv8bqKml8



Im very pleased with the results although i havent tested the accuracy yet. The recoil is a tiny bit more noticeable, but the shooting experience is generally better. I burn 94gr of N570 powering the 300gr scenars at 880m/s, so the silencer has a tough life ahead. I think it'll hold up great.

Here's another clip from this summer (with muzzle brake) where i shoot it at 950 ish meter / 1040 yards.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ks62JnlAGW0

thinking of slicing off a bit on the outer tube. What do you guys suggest as wall thickness? Im burning almost 100gr slow burning powder in this bad boy...
Im thinking of 2mm thick at the blast chamber and 1,5mm at the rest? What kind of pressures or loads do you use if you'd do FEM analysis? I was thinking of using quickload muzzle pressure. it will drop very fast, but the pressure buildup is also very quick.

Your threading looks very nice, why did you decide to weld one end and thread the other?

I'm just thinking that with one fixed end, it will be nearly impossible to get the baffles and spacers out after being shot for a while.

Very nice!

WhisperFan wrote:Your threading looks very nice, why did you decide to weld one end and thread the other?

Thank you.
Yes, one end is welded to save time. I dont care that much if i cant get it apart, because the pressure and flow is so high that i doubt there will be much buildup. I have taken it apart once, and it needed a couple of knocks with a plastic hammer to come lose. If there is a problem i can always cut of the front and thread it up...

Cones not stepped ... bender is proud.