Hello Everyone,
First off, thank you all for posting your knowledge on this board. Greatly helped getting this off the ground. I posted this up over at Sniper Hide, here is the link. Lots of pics and models to look at. Let me know what you think.
http://forum.snipershide.com/snipers-hi ... oject.html
Thanks for looking,
Jason
Form 1 Complete - Details Inside
- STL/N.E.R.D.S.
- Silent But Deadly
- Posts: 246
- Joined: Sun Jan 03, 2010 1:36 pm
- Location: Endless Mountains PA.
Re: Form 1 Complete - Details Inside
Really nice work.. congrats
Re: Form 1 Complete - Details Inside
Wow!
Add my congratulations on masterful planning, dies, machining, execution, design,
and final glistening product. Thoroughly enjoyed your post.
You fall into the class of the best tool and die makers I had the
honor to know and admire over the years.
Best.
Add my congratulations on masterful planning, dies, machining, execution, design,
and final glistening product. Thoroughly enjoyed your post.
You fall into the class of the best tool and die makers I had the
honor to know and admire over the years.
Best.
Re: Form 1 Complete - Details Inside
Thanks guys for the kind words. Coming from the die cast & plastic injection design side of the trade, it was fun to work on something a little different. Glad you guys enjoyed.
Jason
Jason
Re: Form 1 Complete - Details Inside
Most excellent work. I like the design a LOT.
https://www.facebook.com/wickedweapons
- BeerWolf
- Silent Operator
- Posts: 69
- Joined: Sun Jun 24, 2007 3:40 pm
- Location: In the mountains of north-west Arkansas.
Re: Form 1 Complete - Details Inside
Gorgeous tooling and jigs there.
"Tool and Die" men are at the peak of the machining world for a reason.
And your CAD work is pretty nice too.
Thanks for sharing.
(edited for clumsy button mashing error)
"Tool and Die" men are at the peak of the machining world for a reason.
And your CAD work is pretty nice too.
Thanks for sharing.
(edited for clumsy button mashing error)
Don't it always seem to go, that you don't know what you got 'til it's gone?
Re: Form 1 Complete - Details Inside
Love the tube! more people should do this.
which baffles did you use? Awsome jigs.
which baffles did you use? Awsome jigs.
Re: Form 1 Complete - Details Inside
GET OUT OF MY HEAD!!!!!
I was thinking exactly along the lines of what you did with the fluted cones, but worried about how thin it would draw out the metal. I'd love to hear what your buddy suggested about keeping the thickness consistent...and then I'd like to see if he had any ideas about adding a small 'lip' at the outer edge of the cone, essentially a short sleeve, to match up to holes in the tube, so the baffles could be plug-welded in place. It would keep the weight down and should be just as durable.
Excellent work, to say the least!
Byrdman
I was thinking exactly along the lines of what you did with the fluted cones, but worried about how thin it would draw out the metal. I'd love to hear what your buddy suggested about keeping the thickness consistent...and then I'd like to see if he had any ideas about adding a small 'lip' at the outer edge of the cone, essentially a short sleeve, to match up to holes in the tube, so the baffles could be plug-welded in place. It would keep the weight down and should be just as durable.
Excellent work, to say the least!
Byrdman
Re: Form 1 Complete - Details Inside
SRM,
Thanks, I went with the domed baffles because of the thinning of the cones in the stamp press. I'm with you on the tube design, randomly popped in my head one day after I saw an outside image of an old AAC model. I can't remember which one, but this beats making spacers and saves weight. For a robust design, it still only weighs in at 19.5 oz!
My only concern is why did companies go away from this type of "plug" welding? Is it because the tube is harder to make and not as quick to manufacture? Or was it unreliable? I hope not!
Byrdman,
Basically he said to start with a thicker material as you're always going to have center thinning with a stamped cone. Keep in mind, I'm only showing images of the final stamp. There are two more stamps to draw the material in the center first. I still have to send him my updated models for him to make sure I'm doing it correctly. If I ever make another suppressor and develop the stamps, I'll make sure to post up the models. Don't want to put anything out there that doesn't work.
As far as the lip, this would be a little tricky. Remember, the draw of the dome/cone has to be a certain % of the blank diameter. I'd imagine that if you tried to do it all in one draw, that you puncture the center with the dome. The reason being, is that you wouldn't be drawing the material over the "draw radius". The span would be too far. So my guess is that you'd have to make a seperate stamp just for the lip. The same applies here though, the draw ratio would be too large for the OD of the baffle in relation to the initial draw diameter of the dome/cone.
Furthermore, you'd need to make a different stamp for each baffle to match the steps in the tube. Plus you'd have to take into account how much thicker the material would be to fit inside the tube. Remember, the steel gets thicker as you draw in the material from the outside. Whew, this stamping stuff isn't always fun!
"Plug" welding the outside of these 0.06" baffle seemed work out well. I'll have to put it through some hard use to verify though!
Jason
Thanks, I went with the domed baffles because of the thinning of the cones in the stamp press. I'm with you on the tube design, randomly popped in my head one day after I saw an outside image of an old AAC model. I can't remember which one, but this beats making spacers and saves weight. For a robust design, it still only weighs in at 19.5 oz!
My only concern is why did companies go away from this type of "plug" welding? Is it because the tube is harder to make and not as quick to manufacture? Or was it unreliable? I hope not!
Byrdman,
Basically he said to start with a thicker material as you're always going to have center thinning with a stamped cone. Keep in mind, I'm only showing images of the final stamp. There are two more stamps to draw the material in the center first. I still have to send him my updated models for him to make sure I'm doing it correctly. If I ever make another suppressor and develop the stamps, I'll make sure to post up the models. Don't want to put anything out there that doesn't work.
As far as the lip, this would be a little tricky. Remember, the draw of the dome/cone has to be a certain % of the blank diameter. I'd imagine that if you tried to do it all in one draw, that you puncture the center with the dome. The reason being, is that you wouldn't be drawing the material over the "draw radius". The span would be too far. So my guess is that you'd have to make a seperate stamp just for the lip. The same applies here though, the draw ratio would be too large for the OD of the baffle in relation to the initial draw diameter of the dome/cone.
Furthermore, you'd need to make a different stamp for each baffle to match the steps in the tube. Plus you'd have to take into account how much thicker the material would be to fit inside the tube. Remember, the steel gets thicker as you draw in the material from the outside. Whew, this stamping stuff isn't always fun!
"Plug" welding the outside of these 0.06" baffle seemed work out well. I'll have to put it through some hard use to verify though!
Jason
Re: Form 1 Complete - Details Inside
this design is something like i have on paper, except mine has a different approach to handling the gases. my idea is to make the exit path of the gases as long as possible and have a port for water injection. the red lines show gas flow from left to right. the long path allows the gases to cool and slow down. any thoughts on this design?vvillium3 wrote:Hello Everyone,
First off, thank you all for posting your knowledge on this board. Greatly helped getting this off the ground. I posted this up over at Sniper Hide, here is the link. Lots of pics and models to look at. Let me know what you think.
http://forum.snipershide.com/snipers-hi ... oject.html
Thanks for looking,
Jason
i missed a spot, the exit of bullet from last cone should be isolated from the end chamber so that the gases are forced through the long path, etc.
Re: Form 1 Complete - Details Inside
The 'port' for adding water will vent gasses instantly; you're going to blow that out. Adding water (or any ablative medium, as I understand it) to a can working at the pressures you'll experience in a centerfire suppressor is a recipe for disaster. Someone smarter will chime in shortly, I'm sure.1911_kid wrote: this design is something like i have on paper, except mine has a different approach to handling the gases. my idea is to make the exit path of the gases as long as possible and have a port for water injection. the red lines show gas flow from left to right. the long path allows the gases to cool and slow down. any thoughts on this design?
i missed a spot, the exit of bullet from last cone should be isolated from the end chamber so that the gases are forced through the long path, etc.
Regarding the gas flow changing direction, good luck with that. The hole out the end is the easiest way out, and pressure follows the easiest route. Not to mention the added weight of 2 sleeves on the outside of the core. You're looking at a can that will have the same performance at 2 1/2x the weight.
Try it if you want, but don't be surprised if it doesn't turn out too good.
Byrdman
Re: Form 1 Complete - Details Inside
vvillium, how much did you change your diameter in the tube when you stepped down to space the cones? Also, how much clearance did you do between the ID of the tube and the OD of the baffles?
Thx-
Byrdman
Thx-
Byrdman