Yes, it can be legal to make a silencer. For everything Form-1, from silencer designs that are easily made, to filing forms with the BATF, to 3D modeling. Remember, you must have an approved BATF Form-1 to make a silencer. All NFA laws apply.
Thanks to Capt. Link for sharing this design with me a while back, I finally got to make it and have to say it works very well.
As you can see it is easy to make, I used a lathe and mill but I think you could do this with a lathe and drill with a bit of care
This one is for a guy with 17 HMR and he wants it robust and simple, so yes it could be a little lighter but that was not the brief in this case
I drilled from each end in the lathe as I know my chuck is good, the webs between the first four chambers are drilled 1/4" and the last one and end are 7mm (0.276"). We will try this 17HMR but I have put a few High Velocity 22 through it and performance is good and no baffle strikes.
Of all the things I've lost it's my mind I miss the most
The only reason after 243 years the government now wants to disarm you is they intend to do something you would shoot them for!
http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=79895
Historian wrote:Again you inspire as well as excite with your
talent.
Will you be able to give us a live comparative demonstration
of this against another one of your cans?
Say a stack of washers v. this gem?
Out of curiosity could you report on first firing the can empty
and then with the monocore? I have not seen abase level measurement
comparison before.
Thank you for this visual lagniappe on a Saturday night.
Best.
Thanks H
Afraid I can't try it with an empty can as it is a bit loud for the neighbours, however I can say that I tried it with one shot yesterday and it was very loud and likely not hearing safe however with this can and high velocity you get a very quiet report, no doubt hearing safe and sounded no different between subs and High velocity (apart from the sonic crack when down range)
I have now anodised the core an it looks great, I intend just painting the tube and leaving the ends silver anodised.
I might see if it could video it with the can on for you, there would lots of reference noises, loading etc.
Cheers
Last edited by Enfield577 on Sun Jul 28, 2013 3:15 am, edited 1 time in total.
Of all the things I've lost it's my mind I miss the most
Would love to see a heads up comparison with your last cone baffle can for the HMR using the same host and ammo. It looks to be close in length and width. Great work and clean looking as usual.
Tomorrow I send it down to the guy, now he is an ex Firearms instructor with the Police so does a great job of testing. He has been trying the cone can (see photo) that I made for the 17 and it seems to work well, he will try this one out against that and see how it goes.
You can see I have now finished this can and the home anodising is going great.
Cheers
Of all the things I've lost it's my mind I miss the most
Sweet what dye did you use for the tube looks outstanding!
The only reason after 243 years the government now wants to disarm you is they intend to do something you would shoot them for!
http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=79895
que1234 wrote:please post up measurements and materials used. great looking work for sure.
Hi
as mentioned above material is just commercial Al, as for measurements I might get round to drawing it up some time but I put the rule there so you can get a rough idea. You could have ago at drawing it up, post it and we can give a bit of advice
Cheers
Of all the things I've lost it's my mind I miss the most
First class machining. Could you say a bit about how you did such precise fine grooves on your end caps? It would seem tedious in the extreme to do that manually with a rotary table.
Ah you told the secret now, I was going to say a needle file and 5 hours later
To be honest it is a bit of a cheat I had problems diamond knurling (could not even cut) so I got a straight knurling wheel and I think it looks just right
Of all the things I've lost it's my mind I miss the most
Now you have me curious, is there perhaps a similar way to do such knurling on the face? (As one sees on barrel nuts that spring ratchet lock, like the UZI, etc.)
Now you have me curious, is there perhaps a similar way to do such knurling on the face? (As one sees on barrel nuts that spring ratchet lock, like the UZI, etc.)
That is an interesting question, I would suggest that it might only work on a relatively narrow face (like the edge of a tube), I will give it a try sometime
Of all the things I've lost it's my mind I miss the most
When it's on the end like I think you mean, either one direction(parallel lines) or cross hatched, it's traditionally done
with a checkering file. They are available in several spacings (Lines Per Inch)
Capt. Link. wrote:Sweet what dye did you use for the tube looks outstanding!
The tube was painted, it was anodised, then sandblasted, then etch primed, then top coat of acrylic
This paint seem to be really tough, I have had a test can bouncing around the workshop foe w couple years no and the paint is still good
Cheers
Thought of your design last night viewing a Science Channel series on Design. In particular
the episode on the indestructible EMECO all aluminum WWII US Navy chair 1006.
The 77-step process that the aluminum was put through made the final result have
a warrantee of 150 years. Stronger than steel and indestructible. I wonder if
aluminum suppressors could be made that tough and indestructible if similar steps
were to be incorporated.
There are knurling setups that allow the face of things to be knurled. Checkering files are a thing of the past!
This is true, but, I too, am a thing of the past or product of it at the very least. But checkering files was how I was taught. They
weren't expensive, don't require machinery setup and are quick and easy for a "one off" piece. I suppose I'm just a dinosaur, but
I like some "hands on" projects once in a while.
That said, Bender is right there are other ways of doing it.
what dye did you use for the tube looks outstanding!
