Yes, it can be legal to make a silencer. For everything Form-1, from silencer designs that are easily made, to filing forms with the BATF, to 3D modeling. Remember, you must have an approved BATF Form-1 to make a silencer. All NFA laws apply.
My Form 1 should be back in hand by the time I return from a deployment and I am going to build a 30 caliber QD can. This will primarily be used for my 308 but will see use on some ARs and on a possible 300 Blackout with subs. That is secondary though. My question is about baffle design. I know 60 degree cones work well for supersonic rounds but what about the back of the baffle? Ive drawn up 2 CADs with different baffles to show you what my ideas are. Both will mount to a custom muzzle brake with 9tpi threads on the OD and a 30* taper to center and also lock the can from backing off the threads. Can will be made completely from stainless, 304 for the tube and either 304 or 303 for the baffles. Input on that would be appreciated as well. The can will be TiG welded once complete.
OD is 1.5" with 1.37" ID and 8.5" Overall length.
First, traditional 60* cones with a 2.5" blast chamber to accommodate room for the brake. Since the brake will take the brunt of the initial pressure and heat is it still necessary to thicken the first baffle? Baffle spacing is 1" for the second from the first, and 0.75" for the next few except for the last one which is 0.6" to fit.
Second, kinda a tsudo omega baffle still with 60* cones. Baffles are all spaced at 1".
And here is the brake.
There are no "ex-Marines", just Marines who arent active anymore.
The 300BLK has been reported to have "issues" with silencers that are not symmetrical; go with the first 60* cones. Question, how do you plan on keeping the silencer from unscrewing while in use? Do you have it sketched out?
Thanks for the input guys. Ive been leaning toward the first design myself as I think it will be more efficient (and much easier to machine)
The taper at the back side of the mount and the mating taper in the can should meet and prevent unscrewing. Same principal used by a number of companies such as SAS, Thunderbeast, and some others too.
There are no "ex-Marines", just Marines who arent active anymore.
what are the three wholes in the OD in the blast baffle area? do they just vent out into the atmosphere? if so wouldn't that kinda hurt performance? Or are the drawings for the inside portion of the can and will all of that be in cased in an outer tube?
zakk wrote:what are the three wholes in the OD in the blast baffle area? do they just vent out into the atmosphere? if so wouldn't that kinda hurt performance? Or are the drawings for the inside portion of the can and will all of that be in cased in an outer tube?
You can see the steps in the end caps, I guess an outer tube goes between them
I would also go with the 60 deg cones, I made a can for a 308 with 60's and it worked great
Of all the things I've lost it's my mind I miss the most
it does look that way, but the lack of threads, or any way for an outer tube to attach left me wondering. and just the two mating tapers keep it from unscrewing? how is that?
I finally got my lathe up and running, i need to get a trust set up so i can play too. in the mean time i might piss around with some muzzle breaks and flash hiders. maybe ill try and come up with my own fast attach set up or mounting solution of some sort
There is an outer tube that will hold everything in alignment and the end caps will be welded to the tube. I hide the tube in the model cause makes the baffles easier to visualize. The holes in the blast baffle spacer are just for weight reduction, and I honestly probably wont do them cause its not needed.
There are no "ex-Marines", just Marines who arent active anymore.
Ok so after yalls input here is my revision. Lengthened the blast chamber a bit. Shortened the baffle spacing a little and turned the baffle clips all the same way. What is the reasoning for that? Seems like having the clips 180* off from each other would cause jets of pressure to cross from opposite sides and slow down the gasses.
There are no "ex-Marines", just Marines who arent active anymore.
McLarenross wrote:Ok so after yalls input here is my revision. Lengthened the blast chamber a bit. Shortened the baffle spacing a little and turned the baffle clips all the same way. What is the reasoning for that? Seems like having the clips 180* off from each other would cause jets of pressure to cross from opposite sides and slow down the gasses.
Not sure why, but that's how the Saker is done. I'm just a few weeks away from having my Form 1 in hand for a 300BLK can. The reading I've done said that there are "issues" with accuracy when using a non-symmetrical baffle stack. For that reason I'm going with a straight 60* cone - no clipping.
I'm thinking about sending off another Form 1 to do a can almost exactly like yours for use in my 308 rifles. I was planning on a regular screw on can though. Now that I see how your muzzle devise is, I'm leaning that way. I'm just skeptical that meeting tapers like that would prevent loosening. AAC, and the Saker use some sort of ratcheting system. Hummm. . . .
delta9mda wrote:thin the front cap there is no reason for all that meat. everything else looks good.
Yea the front end cap has been a source of frustration for me. I could just make a flat end cap but that just seems like a waste to me. I could bore the front of the end cap out to thin it but then I worry about warping it when welding. Any suggestions on that, Im all ears.
There are no "ex-Marines", just Marines who arent active anymore.
L1A1Rocker wrote:Not sure why, but that's how the Saker is done. I'm just a few weeks away from having my Form 1 in hand for a 300BLK can. The reading I've done said that there are "issues" with accuracy when using a non-symmetrical baffle stack. For that reason I'm going with a straight 60* cone - no clipping.
I'm thinking about sending off another Form 1 to do a can almost exactly like yours for use in my 308 rifles. I was planning on a regular screw on can though. Now that I see how your muzzle devise is, I'm leaning that way. I'm just skeptical that meeting tapers like that would prevent loosening. AAC, and the Saker use some sort of ratcheting system. Hummm. . . .
By non-symetrical are you sure they are not talking about slant baffles or offset mono-cores?
There are no "ex-Marines", just Marines who arent active anymore.
L1A1Rocker wrote:Not sure why, but that's how the Saker is done. I'm just a few weeks away from having my Form 1 in hand for a 300BLK can. The reading I've done said that there are "issues" with accuracy when using a non-symmetrical baffle stack. For that reason I'm going with a straight 60* cone - no clipping.
I'm thinking about sending off another Form 1 to do a can almost exactly like yours for use in my 308 rifles. I was planning on a regular screw on can though. Now that I see how your muzzle devise is, I'm leaning that way. I'm just skeptical that meeting tapers like that would prevent loosening. AAC, and the Saker use some sort of ratcheting system. Hummm. . . .
By non-symetrical are you sure they are not talking about slant baffles or offset mono-cores?
I'm talking about any design that creates counter turbulence within the can. That can be done with offset mono cores, K-baffles (with the mouse hole) or "clipped" cones.
L1A1Rocker wrote:I'm just skeptical that meeting tapers like that would prevent loosening. AAC, and the Saker use some sort of ratcheting system. Hummm. . . .
Depending on the angle it will work . . . down around 10-15* included it will be a pain to get off actually.
