Kyle's 7.62mm, titanium/stainless, clipped cone baffle can.

[Dr.K]

Baffle coming to life.

[L1A1Rocker]

Baffle coming to life.

Like those pics. Please keep em coming.

[Capt. Link.]

Grade 99 is "the good stuff". Only available to us hobbyists. You 02/07's can't get it

We only use it for paper weights.

Nice clean work Kyle.
You have the lathe I wanted until the house is modified for the one I need.

[Dr.K]

Nice looking machines.

I went as big as I dared having never touched a lathe before, but had some good help from several of you when picking it out.

I want to do a time lapse video with my go-pro camera on a baffle from start to finish. I might try that out tonight, but I've never used the time lapse function. We'll see how that goes!

[cpy911]

Kyle,
Looking good. Thanks for sharing the progress. Fascinating.

On your cap, what thread pitch are you using for the barrel mount? 5/8"-24? Are you screwing right into the barrel, or using mount?

If it is threading right on the barrel, how deep is the threaded portion on your cap? In other words, how much thread engagement onto the barrel do you have?

Thanks.

[Dr.K]

5/8x24, 0.65" engagement

[Dr.K]

Baffle carving video. Part 2 will come later.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sGXIomcxPFo

[L1A1Rocker]

Baffle carving video. Part 2 will come later.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sGXIomcxPFo

Excellent!!! I've got a couple of questions if you don't mind.

First: I see you are cutting your 60 degrees on the back side. Is there a reason for that?

Second: Are you cutting chips on the 60 degrees both directions? Or are you cutting on the forward stroke into the head stock and backing up and resetting?

Again, thanks for posting!

[Dr.K]

If I cut the angle on the front of the stock, then my controls are pointed away from me, and more difficult to manipulate.

There is some flex in the tool, so I take a reall beefy cut then shave off the flex on the way back. The final passes are much lighter to account for that.

[L1A1Rocker]

If I cut the angle on the front of the stock, then my controls are pointed away from me, and more difficult to manipulate.

There is some flex in the tool, so I take a reall beefy cut then shave off the flex on the way back. The final passes are much lighter to account for that.

That makes a lot of sense. I'm running an old Atlas 12 x 36 myself. I wonder if I could find a good reversible switch for it.

[cpy911]

5/8x24, 0.65" engagement

Most barrels are .6 to the shoulder. So the barrel only goes in .6".
Would the extra .05" cause erosion on the threads of your end cap?

[Dr.K]

5/8x24, 0.65" engagement

Most barrels are .6 to the shoulder. So the barrel only goes in .6".
Would the extra .05" cause erosion on the threads of your end cap?

It's only a single thread hanging out, so it shouldn't matter if it erodes or not.

[cpy911]

5/8x24, 0.65" engagement

Most barrels are .6 to the shoulder. So the barrel only goes in .6".
Would the extra .05" cause erosion on the threads of your end cap?

It's only a single thread hanging out, so it shouldn't matter if it erodes or not.

Roger that. Sounds good.

[helomech]

Looks great. Gives me hope that I can do the same,,, when my forms finally get back. Still waiting on them, so my build is on the back burner for now while I wait on the ATF . Did you run into any issues turning the Ti versus SS? I'm planning for my first two builds to be out of Ti, but have no experience with cutting it and was wondering what problems, tips, hints, you may have run into or wisdom you may have picked up to pass along?

[Dr.K]

Looks great. Gives me hope that I can do the same,,, when my forms finally get back. Still waiting on them, so my build is on the back burner for now while I wait on the ATF . Did you run into any issues turning the Ti versus SS? I'm planning for my first two builds to be out of Ti, but have no experience with cutting it and was wondering what problems, tips, hints, you may have run into or wisdom you may have picked up to pass along?

It feels different than steel. I'm new to machining, but different materials "feel" different if you get my drift. Ti wants to really push back on the tool, so make sure your setup is very ridged and very sharp. I use carbide, and HSS, and flood coolant. Run slow speeds.

Sacrifice a small piece to practice on. I used a half inch or so, and knurled, turned, faced, threaded, drilled, bored, and sanded. After that, nothing was really a surprise, and the silencer parts came out just right. All I have right now is a lathe, so I can't give you any nuggets on milling Ti, but I heard it was hard.....then again, I heard it was hell on the lathe also, but I've had no trouble at all.

Except tapping. Tapping grade 5 titanium is like raping a porcupine, possible, but you will hate yourself for doing it, and likely not try it again.

[mollinst]

"Tapping grade 5 titanium is like raping a porcupine, possible, but you ..."

Man... There's got to be a "prick" joke in there somewhere... I got nothin'.

Bill

[jonesturf]

Need more pics! Looking great. Been thinking about doing one almost identical. Didn't have time to read every post in case you mentioned but where did you acquire the titanium?

[Dr.K]

Titanium joe, and tigermetals.

It's been far too hot to work in my shop 120ish degrees. So, until later. I've got 3 more baffles, then moly resin, then engraving. All coming guys, no worries.

[daleper]

At those temps you almost don't need to bake the molly resin. Just leave it in the shop for the afternoon.

[Hard_ware]

Nice video

I have much more understanding for the price of Ti suppressors now.

[WarbirdsCustomGuns]

The rear cap. Please excuse the mess of a hole there. Drilling small holes into grade 5 titanium is NO JOKE!

Here's a rear cap I made for a Titanium 300 Win. Mag. can.
The cap is grade 5.
The tool is an Iscar face grooving tool.



Another trick that works is using a 4 flute carbide ball endmill in the tool holder.
You can still clean it up & if you're interested is seeing how the ball end mill is set up let me know & I'll get some pics.

[Dr.K]

Here's a rear cap I made for a Titanium 300 Win. Mag. can.
The cap is grade 5.
The tool is an Iscar face grooving tool.


Another trick that works is using a 4 flute carbide ball endmill in the tool holder.
You can still clean it up & if you're interested is seeing how the ball end mill is set up let me know & I'll get some pics.

I see one of these in my future! I might give a go at shaping some HSS to one of those.

I'd love to see the endmill trick also! BTW, Good looking cap! Makes mine look like I whittled it out with a pocket knife.

[Dr.K]

I battled the heat last night, and completed the video of carving out the inside.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d8-_3FQ2 ... e=youtu.be

[WarbirdsCustomGuns]

Been busy in my shop getting work done for customers & finally have a few minutes to post the pics for the modified endmill.
It's actually a 2 flute center cutting endmill not a ball endmill.
The last pic shows how it's modified to work as it should.
It's a bit tedius but works well.
You need to switch sides of the hole so you need reverse gear as well.
The endmill needs a weldon flat so you can hold it place.

[L1A1Rocker]

I'm curious about the internal milling of the cones. Are you using some sort of 60* counter sink to cheat, or are you milling it like the outside?