1.5" grade 9 titanium tube .070" wall thickness with 28 pitch threads cut.
Sorry for crappy photos, phone camera is all I have at this time.
I'll be cutting the end caps next and checking runout.
Kyle's 7.62mm, titanium/stainless, clipped cone baffle can.
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Re: Kyle's 7.62mm, titanium/stainless, clipped cone baffle c
I'll be watching. . .
Re: Kyle's 7.62mm, titanium/stainless, clipped cone baffle c
Dr.K wrote:1.5" grade 9 titanium tube .070" wall thickness with 28 pitch threads cut.
Sorry for crappy photos, phone camera is all I have at this time.
I'll be cutting the end caps next and checking runout.
I respectfully disagree, the photos are informative and well presented.
Opinion based on 50+ years hobby printing, Leicas, Nikons, Sinar-P ... and now 'shamefully'
using mega-megapixel digital cameras. Gasp.
Minor White, Edward Weston, and Cartier-Bresson a turning over in their Amidol Print Developer.
Your meticulous avocational work speaks volumes on the quality you must exhibit in
your announced vocation with your patients.
Impressive work, please take us along as you continue.
What lathe, etc., are you using?
Best.
Re: Kyle's 7.62mm, titanium/stainless, clipped cone baffle c
Thanks for the kind words Historian. The trick to not screwing up, is one thing at a time.
Nor worries Delta, baffles are coming soon. I don't want to get the cart in front of the horse!
This is where the magic happens. Please don't judge my chinky eyes lathe, it works well for me!
The rear cap. Please excuse the mess of a hole there. Drilling small holes into grade 5 titanium is NO JOKE! The holes are strictly for weight savings, and are on the inside of the blast chamber, so they will not easily be seen.
The rear of it is much more visually appealing.
Nor worries Delta, baffles are coming soon. I don't want to get the cart in front of the horse!
This is where the magic happens. Please don't judge my chinky eyes lathe, it works well for me!
The rear cap. Please excuse the mess of a hole there. Drilling small holes into grade 5 titanium is NO JOKE! The holes are strictly for weight savings, and are on the inside of the blast chamber, so they will not easily be seen.
The rear of it is much more visually appealing.
Kyle O.
Re: Kyle's 7.62mm, titanium/stainless, clipped cone baffle c
Curse our internet filtering at work......I can see threads but no pics. Have to wait until I get home
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Re: Kyle's 7.62mm, titanium/stainless, clipped cone baffle c
I hope Kyle has better days in the shop but s##T happens.I find it good to lay out stuff like I did as an apprentice because it still happens.
Last edited by Capt. Link. on Tue Aug 13, 2013 4:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.
The only reason after 243 years the government now wants to disarm you is they intend to do something you would shoot them for!
http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=79895
http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=79895
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Re: Kyle's 7.62mm, titanium/stainless, clipped cone baffle c
Very interested on how this progresses. I'm expecting my Form 1 back any day now for a titanium build 300BLK so my interest is very high. I'm planning on 1.625 O.D. though.
That peace you called a blast baffle looks more like the rear end cap to me. I'm assuming that the I.D. on it is support on the mounting point?
How are you planning on attaching. I'm thinking about makeing a custom Break with quick attach threads and a 15* mating shoulder from stainless. I plan on a post asking about input on the quick detach threads. I'm thinking 8 or 9 TPI with multiple threads. I just don't know how many threads - two, three or four but want others input on it.
Regarding your lathe: If by "chinky" you mean made overseas. . . don't worry about it. At least youve got a big enough machine to do the job right. Too many people start something like this with a mini hobbiest lathe that really won't do the job. I have read that sometimes the forign lathes have issues in their dial markings being off a bit. They cut accuratly - but don't read the actual correct diminsions. If you run into this issue and feel it needs to be corrected there is an easy fix. Just get a nice accurate digital readout set from MSC that mounts to your existing lathe. And that's that.
Please keep us posted.
OH, one more question. This is a screw togther can right? How much pressure are you planning on putting through this and how fast? My plan is for a screw together also but I'm conserened about heat buildup causing thread failure. Titanium has a huge expansion rate when it gets hot. My concern in my build is that the tube will expand under heat causing a bit of seperation of thread contact and blow out the endcap. I've considered an endcap that screws onto the outside of the tube to try and keep this expansion in check. But that makes the silencer look like a pipe bomb. . .
That peace you called a blast baffle looks more like the rear end cap to me. I'm assuming that the I.D. on it is support on the mounting point?
How are you planning on attaching. I'm thinking about makeing a custom Break with quick attach threads and a 15* mating shoulder from stainless. I plan on a post asking about input on the quick detach threads. I'm thinking 8 or 9 TPI with multiple threads. I just don't know how many threads - two, three or four but want others input on it.
Regarding your lathe: If by "chinky" you mean made overseas. . . don't worry about it. At least youve got a big enough machine to do the job right. Too many people start something like this with a mini hobbiest lathe that really won't do the job. I have read that sometimes the forign lathes have issues in their dial markings being off a bit. They cut accuratly - but don't read the actual correct diminsions. If you run into this issue and feel it needs to be corrected there is an easy fix. Just get a nice accurate digital readout set from MSC that mounts to your existing lathe. And that's that.
Please keep us posted.
OH, one more question. This is a screw togther can right? How much pressure are you planning on putting through this and how fast? My plan is for a screw together also but I'm conserened about heat buildup causing thread failure. Titanium has a huge expansion rate when it gets hot. My concern in my build is that the tube will expand under heat causing a bit of seperation of thread contact and blow out the endcap. I've considered an endcap that screws onto the outside of the tube to try and keep this expansion in check. But that makes the silencer look like a pipe bomb. . .
Re: Kyle's 7.62mm, titanium/stainless, clipped cone baffle c
L1A1Rocker wrote:Very interested on how this progresses. I'm expecting my Form 1 back any day now for a titanium build 300BLK so my interest is very high. I'm planning on 1.625 O.D. though.
That peace you called a blast baffle looks more like the rear end cap to me. I'm assuming that the I.D. on it is support on the mounting point?
The only thing made at this juncture is the rear end cap, and the tube. Blast baffle comes 5th.
1. tube, 2. rear cap, 3. front cap, 4. blast chamber spacer, 5. blast baffle, 6. baffles and spacers.
That is how I plan on progressing the build
How are you planning on attaching. I'm thinking about makeing a custom Break with quick attach threads and a 15* mating shoulder from stainless. I plan on a post asking about input on the quick detach threads. I'm thinking 8 or 9 TPI with multiple threads. I just don't know how many threads - two, three or four but want others input on it.
This one will be a simple screw on can, 5/8x24 threads for barrel, and 28 pitch for can to cap attach. Maybe I'll play with QD in the future, but I have a 762SDN6 so if QD is needed, I'd just grab that one.
Regarding your lathe: If by "chinky" you mean made overseas. . . don't worry about it. At least youve got a big enough machine to do the job right. Too many people start something like this with a mini hobbiest lathe that really won't do the job. I have read that sometimes the forign lathes have issues in their dial markings being off a bit. They cut accuratly - but don't read the actual correct diminsions. If you run into this issue and feel it needs to be corrected there is an easy fix. Just get a nice accurate digital readout set from MSC that mounts to your existing lathe. And that's that.
The lathe dials seem to be right on (or at the very least it's an exact match to my chinky dial caliper ). It is within 0.001" over an 11 inch span while turning something. I'm a novice machinist, but have learned a lot with this machine....notice the swarf box to the right
Please keep us posted.
OH, one more question. This is a screw togther can right? How much pressure are you planning on putting through this and how fast? My plan is for a screw together also but I'm conserened about heat buildup causing thread failure. Titanium has a huge expansion rate when it gets hot. My concern in my build is that the tube will expand under heat causing a bit of seperation of thread contact and blow out the endcap. I've considered an endcap that screws onto the outside of the tube to try and keep this expansion in check. But that makes the silencer look like a pipe bomb. . .
This can will be used for slow fire, and hunting only, mainly in 300blk supers. I've got more substantial stuff for range abuse, or heaven forbid a battle situation (like N. Korea invades "go wolverines") being the endcaps and the blast spacer will be titanium also, there should be substantial "beef" there of the same type that would expand at similar rates. It is a good point though, and I'm glad you brought it up.
Anyone else feel free to make light of this "new to me" information on differential expansion rates of grade 5 and grade 9 titanium, and whether or not it is a huge concern, or an afterthought.
Kyle O.
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Re: Kyle's 7.62mm, titanium/stainless, clipped cone baffle c
You REALLY gotta run a can to cause enough expansion to worry about thread separation.L1A1Rocker wrote: OH, one more question. This is a screw togther can right? How much pressure are you planning on putting through this and how fast? My plan is for a screw together also but I'm conserened about heat buildup causing thread failure. Titanium has a huge expansion rate when it gets hot. My concern in my build is that the tube will expand under heat causing a bit of seperation of thread contact and blow out the endcap. I've considered an endcap that screws onto the outside of the tube to try and keep this expansion in check. But that makes the silencer look like a pipe bomb. . .
If you are running the can THAT hard you have plenty of money to have it repaired or replaced!
If that is your concern go with a smaller thread pitch and that will eliminate it. 28tpi is far more prone to this than say 20tpi.
With a .07 tube I would have gone with 20 or 24tpi personally.
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Re: Kyle's 7.62mm, titanium/stainless, clipped cone baffle c
Keep up the great work K, looks like you are doing well
Oh by the way I have exactly the same lathe, nothing you can't do with it
All the best
Oh by the way I have exactly the same lathe, nothing you can't do with it
All the best
Of all the things I've lost it's my mind I miss the most
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Re: Kyle's 7.62mm, titanium/stainless, clipped cone baffle c
For S&Gs lets look at 24tpi. Would you go with .031 or .036 depth?Bendersquint wrote:
With a .07 tube I would have gone with 20 or 24tpi personally.
Re: Kyle's 7.62mm, titanium/stainless, clipped cone baffle c
YAY - can see pics now.
Do you have a mill & rotary table? That's one way to fix that end cap with the drilled holes and remove more material.
I'd have tried to do that on the lathe with a parting tool ground with a steep bottom relief angle & just hollowed that area out as much as possible. Now that it would be an interrupted cut I don't know if I'd want to mess with it that way.
Do you have a mill & rotary table? That's one way to fix that end cap with the drilled holes and remove more material.
I'd have tried to do that on the lathe with a parting tool ground with a steep bottom relief angle & just hollowed that area out as much as possible. Now that it would be an interrupted cut I don't know if I'd want to mess with it that way.
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Re: Kyle's 7.62mm, titanium/stainless, clipped cone baffle c
No mill yet, but I can see it coming.CMV wrote:YAY - can see pics now.
Do you have a mill & rotary table? That's one way to fix that end cap with the drilled holes and remove more material.
I'd have tried to do that on the lathe with a parting tool ground with a steep bottom relief angle & just hollowed that area out as much as possible. Now that it would be an interrupted cut I don't know if I'd want to mess with it that way.
Honestly, if it were something that would be seen when assembled, I would not have taken a drill press to it.
It bothers me none in the least.
However, if it makes any of you more at ease, after the endcap is cut tonight, and if the runout if it is ridiculously crooked, I shall scrap it and start over.
I was just messing around.....now I know.
I found a quote I was looking for earlier, that I thought of when that happened.
“Good judgment comes from experience, and experience comes from bad judgment.”
Kyle O.
Re: Kyle's 7.62mm, titanium/stainless, clipped cone baffle c
Every thing lines up perfectly! Runout is just a few thou! I put a test round thru it and no strike on the endcap. Exit hole is 0.325" so I know I can make my baffle apertures at least that size. All titanium at this point the weight with both caps is 11.6oz. Not sure if that's good or bad, but I'm satisfied. Tomorrow will be the blast chamber spacer out of titanium and the blast baffle out of 316L stainless.
Kyle O.
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Re: Kyle's 7.62mm, titanium/stainless, clipped cone baffle c
Ain't that purdy. Nice job!Dr.K wrote:Front cap. Done.
You know, I was thinking about the other endcap with the lightnening holes drilled in it. You could take the old stand by of gun bench hackery to it if you like. I speak of course, of the all powerful, and despised, dremel. I'd post the laughing smiley but I'm actually serious.
Re: Kyle's 7.62mm, titanium/stainless, clipped cone baffle c
Dremel vs 6al4v would be interesting
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Re: Kyle's 7.62mm, titanium/stainless, clipped cone baffle c
That is very nice work. Looking forward to seeing how the baffle will look as I am about to order the material for my can.
I Live in Fear and Danger Everyday but Occasionally I Leave Her and Go SHOOTING.
Re: Kyle's 7.62mm, titanium/stainless, clipped cone baffle c
Blast spacer, grade 9 titanium, 2" long.
Last edited by Dr.K on Wed Aug 14, 2013 3:08 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Kyle O.
Re: Kyle's 7.62mm, titanium/stainless, clipped cone baffle c
How long is your blast spacer?
Dr.K wrote:Blast spacer
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Re: Kyle's 7.62mm, titanium/stainless, clipped cone baffle c
Grade 99?Dr.K wrote:Blast spacer, grade 9 titanium, 2" long.
Re: Kyle's 7.62mm, titanium/stainless, clipped cone baffle c
Typing on my phone again......grade nine.Bendersquint wrote:Grade 99?Dr.K wrote:Blast spacer, grade 9 titanium, 2" long.
Kyle O.
Re: Kyle's 7.62mm, titanium/stainless, clipped cone baffle c
Grade 99 is "the good stuff". Only available to us hobbyists. You 02/07's can't get it
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