New .308 can to be built / Pictures now added of progess

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Hangman15
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New .308 can to be built / Pictures now added of progess

Post by Hangman15 »

Good day group,

A new can to be built for a 308 F-class rifle. So I am really going for accuracy with the can. So the Round I am going to be using is a BTHP 175 grain with 42 grains of powder. will be going for a design to handle supersonic round. Going to use 316 SS for the tube 1.5 od. was wondering what is the thought on .063 wall vers .083 walled. The spacers will be 304 SS along with the baffles and end caps. Going to go with a threaded design. I am still a little undecided to either do a 60 degree cone or a step cone. Does anyone know of some results from each design? Length is still up in the air as I would like to keep it light but want is quiet. I was figuring on either a 8.5"-10" can. Any other ideas and input would be great.
Last edited by Hangman15 on Wed Sep 11, 2013 2:32 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Dr.K
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Re: New .308 can to be built

Post by Dr.K »

Were it my silencer I'd go 10", smooth cones, 0.063" wall.

For accuracy keep baffles concentric. Don't clip them, or do any kind of cross jetting.
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Re: New .308 can to be built

Post by zevdogs »

Dr.K wrote:Were it my silencer I'd go 10", smooth cones, 0.063" wall.

For accuracy keep baffles concentric. Don't clip them, or do any kind of cross jetting.

I don't think steped cones ore any kind of cutting on them make any differance on accuracy because the bullet is out of the suppressor before any of the gas starts being diverted
My .223 with iron sights can hold a three inch group at two hundred yards useing steped and ported cones
Hangman15
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Re: New .308 can to be built

Post by Hangman15 »

zevdogs wrote:
Dr.K wrote:Were it my silencer I'd go 10", smooth cones, 0.063" wall.

For accuracy keep baffles concentric. Don't clip them, or do any kind of cross jetting.

I don't think steped cones ore any kind of cutting on them make any differance on accuracy because the bullet is out of the suppressor before any of the gas starts being diverted
My .223 with iron sights can hold a three inch group at two hundred yards useing steped and ported cones

This can will be used to try and hold tight groups out to 1000 yards and beyond. At 10" there would be room for an expansion chamber and close to 6-7 baffles depending how make them. Anyone have an idea around what the weight would be with 10" can SS, round about?
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Re: New .308 can to be built

Post by zevdogs »

Hangman15 wrote:
zevdogs wrote:
Dr.K wrote:Were it my silencer I'd go 10", smooth cones, 0.063" wall.

For accuracy keep baffles concentric. Don't clip them, or do any kind of cross jetting.

I don't think steped cones ore any kind of cutting on them make any differance on accuracy because the bullet is out of the suppressor before any of the gas starts being diverted
My .223 with iron sights can hold a three inch group at two hundred yards useing steped and ported cones

This can will be used to try and hold tight groups out to 1000 yards and beyond. At 10" there would be room for an expansion chamber and close to 6-7 baffles depending how make them. Anyone have an idea around what the weight would be with 10" can SS, round about?

Well if I had a high power scope I'm sure I could hold good groups farther than I do ,
As far as weight goes my latest can is. 1 lb. 10 oz. At eight inches long so devide the weight by leanth and you can get a ruff estimate of weight by inch
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Re: New .308 can to be built

Post by Hangman15 »

zevdogs wrote:
Well if I had a high power scope I'm sure I could hold good groups farther than I do ,
As far as weight goes my latest can is. 1 lb. 10 oz. At eight inches long so devide the weight by leanth and you can get a ruff estimate of weight by inch

My scope is going to be a Nightforce 8x32x56MM. will be able to reach out and touch with that scope. :D

Rifle is getting sent out next week to get built at the Gunsmith.
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My new toy that i am building. I am bored with the rest of my toys i have to shoot. Its time for something new. Time to really learn to shoot long range. I am looking forward for this new challenge.
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pnl2012
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Re: New .308 can to be built

Post by pnl2012 »

Ported Stepped Cones are really good for Suppression. Accuracy (grouping) is not related to the Baffles (or its features) but to the change in Barrel harmonics due to extra weight at the Muzzle. This phenomenon exponentially grows with Barrel length. 8 inches is enough for .308 Can and 10 inches can make it quieter (not sure how much if any) but worse in terms on grouping due to extra "hanging" weight. 28-30 ounces is the border line for long range target shooting with long barrels. Consider also an Over the Barrel Can (Reflex) design to balance harmonics while keeping the same level of suppression.
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Re: New .308 can to be built

Post by MCKNBRD »

Hangman, make sure you tell your 'smith that you're planning on suppressing the rifle; it would be ideal if you have a very good idea of the weight and length (at a minimum) to tell him, as your barrel length, bedding, and load development will be GREATLY affected by the can.

If you're going to play in F-class, I'd recommend considering integrating an adjustable weight system into the can somehow; it will allow tuning on the range, similar to Browning's BOSS system. How? I have no idea. Doesn't mean it can't be done, though.

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Re: New .308 can to be built

Post by Hangman15 »

So the new can is underway finally. The tube is 316 seamless and the end caps are 304. One question I am wondering is should I put some sort of small crown on the end of the can?
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Re: New .308 can to be built

Post by StalkerBoy »

Hangman15, a slight crown is a very good idea, but I really mean slight! As in a touch :shock: I've found that crowning my two BR Ladies' silencers improved their accuracy(might have corrected an overtight bore) but caused the end cap to wear significantly. So very slightly and not steep as you want a smooth dissipation of the gases behind the round as it exits.

I also believe you should be careful of the baffles you use as the air preceding the bullet in the barrel could mess with your round as it exits the barrel. For most this would be unnoticible, but at 1,600m you miss the whole damn target.

If I may ask, how is your barrel crowned? Is it recessed?
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Re: New .308 can to be built

Post by Hangman15 »

what are the thoughts on stepped cones over 60 degree cones for the 308 can? baffles are next and I am still throwing around those designs.
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Re: New .308 can to be built

Post by Shift1 »

Hangman15 wrote:what are the thoughts on stepped cones over 60 degree cones for the 308 can? baffles are next and I am still throwing around those designs.
Many projects here using smooth cones.
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Re: New .308 can to be built

Post by Enfield577 »

I made a can for a girl with an AR10 in 308, it had smooth cones, she is winning competitions with it up to 1000 yards

That said I have not tried stepped cones but doubt they could be better, but might be worse
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Re: New .308 can to be built

Post by StalkerBoy »

I'd stay clear of the stepped cones. Its not that they're not effective, its just to be safe. Remember, stepped cones increase turbulence and might cause havok with the cold air preceding the bullet. For the ammo you're going to use combined with the target distance, I'd say you could sacrifice a decibel or two (in the case that they were perfectly machined and worked better) for the sake of accuracy. Besides, you'd save a bit of weight too. 60deg cones are tried and trusted without a doubt, so when in doubt, go back to them ;)
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Re: New .308 can to be built

Post by StalkerBoy »

I think you'd find this interresting: By ed1380

http://i.imgur.com/qO09EkP.jpg
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Re: New .308 can to be built

Post by Capt. Link. »

Hangman15 wrote:what are the thoughts on stepped cones over 60 degree cones for the 308 can? baffles are next and I am still throwing around those designs.
Stick with 60* smooth cones with a .308 no need to crown any part of the can as long as the machine work is clean.Who is building your rifle if you don't mind me asking?
The only reason after 243 years the government now wants to disarm you is they intend to do something you would shoot them for!
http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=79895
Hangman15
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Re: New .308 can to be built

Post by Hangman15 »

StalkerBoy wrote:I think you'd find this interresting: By ed1380

http://i.imgur.com/qO09EkP.jpg
That is very cool. nice to see the cones angle the blast as it moves through the can. Green as it is about to exit.

Capt. Link. wrote:
Hangman15 wrote:what are the thoughts on stepped cones over 60 degree cones for the 308 can? baffles are next and I am still throwing around those designs.
Stick with 60* smooth cones with a .308 no need to crown any part of the can as long as the machine work is clean.Who is building your rifle if you don't mind me asking?

http://www.accurateordnance.com/ is building my rifle. The barrel does have a crown on it. I am going with the 60 degree baffles. I am cutting them today.
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Capt. Link.
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Re: New .308 can to be built

Post by Capt. Link. »

I can't argue with your choice but you have many quality smiths local to you including me!I'm just yanking your chain.
The only reason after 243 years the government now wants to disarm you is they intend to do something you would shoot them for!
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Hangman15
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Re: New .308 can to be built

Post by Hangman15 »

Capt. Link. wrote:I can't argue with your choice but you have many quality smiths local to you including me!I'm just yanking your chain.
LOL I do have a local smith that builds amazing rifles just 15 mins from me. My only problem with using him is he has a 8-9 month backlog and I am a very impatient person..lol
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Hangman15
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Re: New .308 can to be built

Post by Hangman15 »

Well while cutting the first baffle taper it grabbed and pulled it out of the chuck, sighs. :( good thing I am a fast learner and I will not let this happen again. Only 6 more baffles to go.

But :D I was able to get it cleaned up and get it concentric again to be able to finish up the taper. Just did a test fit and is great. the baffle has a couple battle scars on the outside of the built in spacer.

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Last edited by Hangman15 on Wed Sep 11, 2013 2:34 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Hangman15
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Re: New .308 can to be built

Post by Hangman15 »

here are some more pictures of the rest of the can as I have done to date. from the data I have now the can should weigh in around 1lb 14 oz. I am trying to see where else I can shave some weight off if possible.

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Re: New .308 can to be built / Pictures now added of proge

Post by McLarenross »

You have way too much meat on the end caps there. Those could be reduced to half their length and still be just fine.
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Hangman15
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Re: New .308 can to be built / Pictures now added of proge

Post by Hangman15 »

McLarenross wrote:You have way too much meat on the end caps there. Those could be reduced to half their length and still be just fine.

only one concern I have with that is when I cut the threads in the tube I went and put an undercut in and I am worried that it is to much as it may have made the tube to thin. so I made the end caps long enough to act as a spacer and cover the undercuts on both ends. I will be able to tell if the can is ok with a round through it once its done.
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Hangman15
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Re: New .308 can to be built / Pictures now added of proge

Post by Hangman15 »

Ok, I have been moving pretty quickly on this now. I went and pre drilled all the baffle from the .368 to a .5 to a 3/4 and finally to a 1 1/8. Made it real easy to bore out the back spacer then it was even easier cut the 60 degree taper in the back. One last baffle to cut in the back then flip and undercut for the final front taper and done. Should be done today if all goes well. I will post more pics as they progress.

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Re: New .308 can to be built / Pictures now added of proge

Post by ed1380 »

Pictures don't work. Could you host them at www.imgur.com?

Thanks
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