Historian's Resource Page

Yes, it can be legal to make a silencer. For everything Form-1, from silencer designs that are easily made, to filing forms with the BATF, to 3D modeling. Remember, you must have an approved BATF Form-1 to make a silencer. All NFA laws apply.

Moderators: mpallett, bakerjw

User avatar
L1A1Rocker
Silent But Deadly
Posts: 3578
Joined: Wed Feb 21, 2007 5:40 pm
Location: Texas Hill Country

Re: Historian's Resource Page

Post by L1A1Rocker »

Historian wrote:<< http://www.hobby-machinist.com/showthre ... Made-Tools >>

The PDF "Shop-Made-Tools" is pure Metal Porn!

Any excuse "to take breaks on climbing the self imposed Nordwand Eiger."

Might even try some tools this coming Summer.

Looks like you have to be a member in order see/download it.
User avatar
doubloon
Silent But Deadly
Posts: 11897
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 2008 11:02 pm
Location: Houston-ish

Re: Historian's Resource Page

Post by doubloon »

L1A1Rocker wrote:
Historian wrote:<< http://www.hobby-machinist.com/showthre ... Made-Tools >>
The PDF "Shop-Made-Tools" is pure Metal Porn!
Any excuse "to take breaks on climbing the self imposed Nordwand Eiger."
Might even try some tools this coming Summer.
Looks like you have to be a member in order see/download it.
Try here https://www.dropbox.com/s/v2ifdmxab8lmf ... 0Tools.pdf

Heh ...
Kevin made the handle by turning the cranks on the lathe, like he was running an Etch-a-Sketch.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BDtd2jNIwAU MUSAFAR!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8CrOL-ydFMI This is Water DavidW
Complete Form 1s http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=79895
Historian
Silent But Deadly
Posts: 3503
Joined: Mon Mar 29, 2010 10:37 pm

Re: Historian's Resource Page

Post by Historian »

<< http://cartertools.blogspot.nl/2013/03/ ... shaft.html >>

When you want to give ... not get ... the shaft. :)

Easy build even for a tyro with delusions of someday being
anywhere near like the Good Captain, Doubloon, or Enfield.

In particular when you have to make a replacement pin with SS
and where a perfect fit cannot be achieved by just machining.

For example a replacement pin in a 50 year old turn table
or a bearing pin in an old clock.
joe0121
Senior Silent Operator
Posts: 136
Joined: Fri May 10, 2013 10:12 am

Home Annodizing setup

Post by joe0121 »

Doubles as a table when not is use. This will be awesome for those of us working with Ti. and Ai. for Form 1 suppressors.

Build thread:
http://madmodder.net/index.php/topic,9113.0.html

Video of it in action:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BtYHcsq7s5A

I am going to start buying PID's and solid state controllers in bulk there are at least 3 projects I have on the back burner that use them.
User avatar
Baffled
Silent But Deadly
Posts: 962
Joined: Thu May 19, 2005 3:20 pm

Re: Home Annodizing setup

Post by Baffled »

joe0121 wrote: I am going to start buying PID's and solid state controllers in bulk there are at least 3 projects I have on the back burner that use them.
Trying to keep Historian's thread cleaner, I'm editing this page and providing a link to the finished controller build

Here it is:
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=123024

Image
Last edited by Baffled on Sat Feb 08, 2014 12:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.
joe0121
Senior Silent Operator
Posts: 136
Joined: Fri May 10, 2013 10:12 am

Re: Home Annodizing setup

Post by joe0121 »

Baffled wrote:
joe0121 wrote: I am going to start buying PID's and solid state controllers in bulk there are at least 3 projects I have on the back burner that use them.
A few years back, I needed a PID temperature controller for some chemistry projects, and it has turned into one of the handiest devices in my shop that I have.

Image

What makes it so useful is that the modern (and cheap) PID controllers accept almost ANY temperature input, from PT100 probes for accurate, low-temp use, right on up to thermocouples for furnaces. And on the output side, any 120/240 device can be connected. I've used PTFE-coated immersion heaters, SS hot water heaters for parkerizing tanks, it'll even power an $8 single burner electric "bachelor" stove.

All the juice runs through an inexpensive solid state relay. The controller will nail a temp to within a degree, and hold it there. It's perfect for parkerizing, anodizing, and I'm thinking of using it for both the mash and the still when I get my ethanol rig going.

If anyone needs help on making something similar, I'd be happy to do a "build" thread.
That would be awesome.

My current projects are a cerkote oven, annealing machine, cleaning tank. The list goes on. Only thing missing is time and money.
User avatar
gunny50
Silent But Deadly
Posts: 782
Joined: Wed Jan 23, 2008 5:11 am
Location: EU

Re: Home Annodizing setup

Post by gunny50 »

Baffled wrote:[
If anyone needs help on making something similar, I'd be happy to do a "build" thread.

Yes, that would be great. This would come in handy for many projects.

Gunny
Historian
Silent But Deadly
Posts: 3503
Joined: Mon Mar 29, 2010 10:37 pm

Re: Historian's Resource Page

Post by Historian »

Thin Part Holding:

Discussion on another post reminded me of a technique for holding
washers in lathe chuck for reducing their diameter .

<< http://www.xrv.org.uk/forums/bodgers-co ... ative.html >>
User avatar
Capt. Link.
Silent But Deadly
Posts: 2829
Joined: Wed Oct 17, 2007 9:05 pm
Location: USA.

Re: Historian's Resource Page

Post by Capt. Link. »

This is a tool review of: http://www.arwarnerco.com/
This is the very first insert tooling I have ever bought for my home workshop.The following is why I have put it off for 3 decades.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
High Speed Steel
HIGH SPEED STEEL — WHY USE IT?

High Speed Steel is a cutting tool material used in drilling, milling, turning, threading, boring, broaching, gear cutting and many other machining operations. High Speed Steel is used for form tools, slitter knives, guillotine knives, parting tools and many other types of cutting tools. High Speed Steel cutting tools are used in all phases of production and are widely used in both machine tools and in portable machine tools.

High Speed Steel is noted for its ability to perform at slow surface speeds, while providing a good surface finish, without chipping or breakage.

High Speed Steel offers reliable toughness. It is commonly used in applications with interrupted cuts and it is notably tougher than carbide and ceramic materials. It also resists chipping in cutting applications.

The toughness allows for Steep Positive Cutting Configurations to be generated. The positive cutting tool configurations demand less horsepower and will lower the level of heat generated during the operation when work hardening is a concern.

High Speed Steel retains good wear resistance in both metal working and wood working applications.

High Speed Steel cutting tools have a sharper cutting edge than carbide cutting tools. The work piece is cut rather than fractured which results in an improved surface finish.

High Speed Steel is used in applications where contamination of scrap is a concern.

We offer both conventional and PM (Particle Metallurgy) in certain grades.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Image

Kit #16 35 Degree Profile (V) Right Hand Left Hand

Contents:
1 Right Hand bar 3/8 inch shank 6.0 inches overall length
Side angle: 3 degree
1 Left Hand bar 3/8 inch shank 6.0 inches overall length
Side angle: 3 degree
3 Inserts T-15 High Speed Steel VCMW 221
Relief : 7 degree
IC: .250 inch
Thickness: .125 inch
Hole: .110 inch Top opening: .146 inch
Radius: .015 inch
1 Insert Carbide VCMT 221
Relief : 7 degree
IC: .250 inch
Thickness: .125 inch
Hole: .110 inch Top opening: .146 inch
Radius: .015 inch

Screws: (3) MS-1153

Wrench: T-7

SKU:
Weight: 1.00
Price: $110.00
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I have used them on my G4003G and my Rockwell 10" lathe neither of which is ideal for carbide tooling.
The T-15 inserts are as tough as the come and will cut titanium alloys and SS without complaint.I bought kit #16 just for carving baffles and will buy threading holders and cut off tools next.Best of all the same holders will accept carbide if you have a machine that can use them effectively.They have a large number of kits & insert styles available so you can get the benefits of insert tooling for any sized lathe.All this and made in America.
The only reason after 243 years the government now wants to disarm you is they intend to do something you would shoot them for!
http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=79895
Historian
Silent But Deadly
Posts: 3503
Joined: Mon Mar 29, 2010 10:37 pm

Re: Historian's Resource Page

Post by Historian »

Lost Wax Casting:

Ray Brandes, the illustrious maker of the famed Smith & Wesson M41
Bully Barrel*, has an interesting article on his site.

Some might find this informative.

<< http://www.foundry.ray-vin.com/lostwax/lostwax.htm >>



* << http://www.ar15.com/archive/topic.html?b=5&f=16&t=63953 >>
<< http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/sh ... %2B+barrel >>
User avatar
whiterussian1974
Silent But Deadly
Posts: 2857
Joined: Sat Sep 28, 2013 11:37 pm
Location: On 8th line of eye chart.

Re: Historian's Resource Page

Post by whiterussian1974 »

Historian wrote:Lost Wax Casting:
<< http://www.foundry.ray-vin.com/lostwax/lostwax.htm >>
Excellent resource!!!
Thanks :D
The Darkest Corners of Hell are reserved for those who remain Neutral!-Dante
The Death of One is a Tragedy, a million only a statistic.-Stalin
silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=135314
Historian
Silent But Deadly
Posts: 3503
Joined: Mon Mar 29, 2010 10:37 pm

Casting Metal Parts for Tools, etc.

Post by Historian »

<< http://madmodder.net/index.php/topic,8485.200.html >>

is an enjoyable instructional article and accompanying
video of how Mr. Raphael, a most ingenious tool builder, casts miniature parts.

Some might find this interesting.
Historian
Silent But Deadly
Posts: 3503
Joined: Mon Mar 29, 2010 10:37 pm

Re: Historian's Resource Page

Post by Historian »

Reducing Thickness Of Small Parts on Lathe:

Ran across a most informative YouTube that solved
a problem of making a non-standard special brass washer and other
parts for a 44 year old Kohler shower mixing valve.

Unlimited extrapolations.

<< http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nIoaK5Dsvas >>
Historian
Silent But Deadly
Posts: 3503
Joined: Mon Mar 29, 2010 10:37 pm

Re: Historian's Resource Page

Post by Historian »

Dialing In Steady Rest for Long Tube:

Impressive tutorial on a technique I vaguely remember seeing in 1955 Institute's Machine
shop by master tool & die maker but unfortunately did not stick to a Freshman's
'head full of mush'. It was a joy to run across this generously explained
technique.

One might find this method of set up sometime in the future.

Happy watching.

<< http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a3V4_qFbQ-Q >>
Historian
Silent But Deadly
Posts: 3503
Joined: Mon Mar 29, 2010 10:37 pm

Re: Historian's Resource Page

Post by Historian »

Threading a Barrel:

<< http://accurateordnance.com/cgi-bin/imc ... d=16&sub=4 >>

Interesting set up to have in files.

What, no free-hand threading like some TV fun, I mean gunsmiths. :)
Historian
Silent But Deadly
Posts: 3503
Joined: Mon Mar 29, 2010 10:37 pm

Re: Historian's Resource Page

Post by Historian »

Recently I had to make some replacement screws for a 1920's piece
and of course there are none to be found. By sheer good fortune
I ran across this interesting post on adding mini-jaws to a lathe
for holding screws. It took no time for me to see how to use them
once made:

Get larger screws; turn them down to size; tap.
Voilà.

I hope that the gods of metal turning do not put a HEX on you. :)

Could be useful addition to mini-lathe.

<< http://madmodder.net/index.php/topic,9489.0.html >>
User avatar
Baffled
Silent But Deadly
Posts: 962
Joined: Thu May 19, 2005 3:20 pm

Re: Historian's Resource Page

Post by Baffled »

Historian wrote:Recently I had to make some replacement screws for a 1920's piece...
I hope that the gods of metal turning do not put a HEX on you. :)

Could be useful addition to mini-lathe.

<< http://madmodder.net/index.php/topic,9489.0.html >>
GREAT find Historian! Damned clever. I thought I had seen just about all the hints/tricks, but this one is new to me.

I'm thinking start with mild steel hex stock, that'll give you corners to work with. Once installed, I'd bore or use a drill in the tailstock to open them up. You could even drill and tap the interface if you had a large quantity of screws to do. And to finish them off elegantly, toss them in a pot with some Kasenit and harden them right up.

I usually use 5C emergency collets for that sort of thing, but that can get expensive.

On my current project, I needed to drill a #10 cap screw end on for a 0.125" stainless rod. That doesn't leave much meat in the screw. The only way to pull it off was to drill and tap a scrap of brass or Al round, screw in the #10, reverse in the jaws, then I could face, drill, and ream for the 0.125" rod.

I love imaginative workholding solutions. As we know, it's 85% in the setup, only 15% in the cut.
Historian
Silent But Deadly
Posts: 3503
Joined: Mon Mar 29, 2010 10:37 pm

Re: Historian's Resource Page

Post by Historian »

Milling on Mini-Lathe:

Being on a continual path to beef up my Atlas 618 lathe
with its milling attachment
* I have wanted a slotted milling
table for it as with the larger lathes. This is especially useful
when holding and milling small parts for antique arms.

I have alighted on a simple yet effective solution that some might
also incorporate. On eBay I have found two items that were made for
the Swiss Unimat Lathe: their small yet most effective 'jeweler's' vise,
and the slotted iron milling table. **

To use the sturdy milling table on the Atlas Milling Attachment with its 2" wide jaw
I mounted the milling table onto a 2" x 5" x 1" block of aluminum.

Now for hard to hold parts I have more control in milling ... 5 axes of movements.
[ Please feel free to send me you cast off Grizzly Gunsmithing lathes if you
pity my very antiquated lathe. :) ]

In addition the rotating clamp of the milling attachment mounts on the Atlas's
cross slide.

To this I have added two UNIMAT WATCHMAKERS MINI LATHE SL1000 OR DB 200 # 1010 MACHINE VICE
as can be seen on eBay. They both mount perfectly in line for ultra control of a piece between them.

These small jeweler's vices are fantastic in gripping small parts for polishing on super fine grinding wheel.



* << http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/at ... _1481a.jpg >>

** << http://myplace.frontier.com/~steven.jay ... mps-01.jpg >>
Historian
Silent But Deadly
Posts: 3503
Joined: Mon Mar 29, 2010 10:37 pm

Re: Historian's Resource Page

Post by Historian »

<< http://www.emco.or.at/index.php/downloa ... sl-english >>

Interesting historical reference on Unimat. One friend in UK adapted the milling
head on his small lathe.
Historian
Silent But Deadly
Posts: 3503
Joined: Mon Mar 29, 2010 10:37 pm

Re: Historian's Resource Page

Post by Historian »

Thanks to member who sent me link to " ...
when you next upgrade your Atlas 618". :)


<< http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lcGHtI9Lql4 >>

Would the rook be considered a K-baffle in gestation?

First time I have seen such long triangular jaws on a chuck.
Historian
Silent But Deadly
Posts: 3503
Joined: Mon Mar 29, 2010 10:37 pm

Re: Historian's Resource Page

Post by Historian »

TOOL JUNKIE ALERT! INCOMING! :)

Like Odysseus having his men tie him to the ships mast
while they had wax in their ears [ first ancient Greek Silencers? ]
so he could hear the Sirens' Seductive calls but was restrained from
responding, hide your check books.

The KEATS ADJUSTABLE ANGLE PLATE.

<< http://www.google.com/search?q=KEATS+AD ... 4&bih=1001 >>

<< http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php?topic=632.0 >>

UK buddy touted me onto this, at least for me, must-have-tool holder.

If one wants to hold a large piece of round stock for say boring out it is clear that
a 3-jaw chuck will slip, necessitating using a steady which for short stubby stock interferes
with cutting. Holds up to 1.75" diameter and 3.75" grip.

For steel I have a heavy duty magnetic Vee Block jury rigged to my milling attachment. With this
unit I envision clamping to the face plate and controlling Aluminum or brass round. My friend uses
it with his drill press to keep the work perpendicular to the table.

So, place wax in your ears, hide your check book, and avert thy eyes ... "Devil get behind me". :)
User avatar
Capt. Link.
Silent But Deadly
Posts: 2829
Joined: Wed Oct 17, 2007 9:05 pm
Location: USA.

Re: Historian's Resource Page

Post by Capt. Link. »

Well that is a "dog" of a different color.
Just whats needed for chambering barrels or
threading suppressors when held in a steady rest.
Checkbook has been dusted off and the moths have been set free.

Image
De Havilland Tiger Moth
The only reason after 243 years the government now wants to disarm you is they intend to do something you would shoot them for!
http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=79895
Historian
Silent But Deadly
Posts: 3503
Joined: Mon Mar 29, 2010 10:37 pm

Re: Historian's Resource Page

Post by Historian »

Capt. Link. wrote:Well that is a "dog" of a different color.
Just whats needed for chambering barrels or
threading suppressors when held in a steady rest.
Checkbook has been dusted off and the moths have been set free.

Image
De Havilland Tiger Moth

+1

Great shot! I am covering your 6 in a Sopwith Camel*,
mon Capitain.

We can take any Fokkers** up ahead.

I have mounted a Lewis Gun*** with a suppressor on it.
Thank God that here in 1918 there is sanity and that there are no stupid regulations on getting
the suppressor and mounting it.

Meet you at Madame Arlette's in Paris this weekend,
got the rooms booked at the Ritz. Tally ho, chaps! :) :)








* << http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=htt ... CH4Q_B0wCg >>

** << http://www.antiqueairfield.com/attachme ... ?width=600 >>

*** << http://world.guns.ru/userfiles/images/m ... ewis-2.jpg >>
User avatar
L1A1Rocker
Silent But Deadly
Posts: 3578
Joined: Wed Feb 21, 2007 5:40 pm
Location: Texas Hill Country

Re: Historian's Resource Page

Post by L1A1Rocker »

Had a request to post this here.

I'm still (seems like forever) gearing up to make a titanium screw on silencer for my SBR. I'm planning on doing some sort of QA/QD muzzle brake thingy-ma-bob using a two start ACME thread with a 4 lead and 8 pitch. I could not find any pre-ground threading tools for a quick change tool post, they're all fancy insert things now. So I got some 10% cobolt blanks and realized that hand grinding was not my thing.

Here's a gate guide I made for grinding 29* ACME thread tool bits.

Image

Image

Image

The plate is tapped but I put some nuts on anyway to act as locks. I'm thinking that the guide plate should be a bit closer to the grinding wheel but I'm going to try it like this and see how it does.

Now we are on to a guide for making a 60* V threading tool.

Image

You can see in this side by side that it sits much closer to the grinding wheel than the first guide I made. I may yet move that one up a bit.

Image

Just for S & Gs, here's a pic of my tool grinder:

Image

Now I don't do the initial grinding on the tool grinder shown above. That machine is for doing the final work. Here's a photo of what the roughing out is done on.

Image

Oh, and doing the layout work on the plate aluminum was made a bit easier with this machinist protractor I found in my late fathers tool cabinet. (Would you believe that it's a Craftsman brand?)

Image

Well, that's what I've done so far. I guess I'll start grinding tool bits. . .
Historian
Silent But Deadly
Posts: 3503
Joined: Mon Mar 29, 2010 10:37 pm

Re: Historian's Resource Page

Post by Historian »

L1A1Rocker, Nice!!

I shall implement immediately.

Only thing I am missing is the tilt table.

Best
Post Reply