Ever seen this type of can before?

[Brewertoo]

Hi all I am new here. I have been building cans for while and doing some research. my current project is an intra barrel unit that is concealed under the forearm of a Ruger tactical 22. I have never seen anything like this done before and was just wondering if you had. I will post some pictures tomorrow when I have them with me. I forgot them today.

[Brewertoo]

Having a hard time getting a pic on, can someone help me??

[doubloon]

Having a hard time getting a pic on, can someone help me??

Upload your pic(s) to some publicly accessible location like photo bucket, image shack or some other site maybe even a machine you own directly on the interwebs.

Embed a link to the publicly accessible pic

Code: Select all

[img]http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa221/toobmonkey/thread_fodder/5292.jpg[/img]

Disclaimer: I haven't seen or handled these cans.

[Brewertoo]

Hope this works. where'd ya get the avatar?

[MCKNBRD]

Interesting. Never seen anything like that before; I'd imagine its an SBR 10/22 with a can, then a hollow tube out the front to look like a barrel. Only way I could see it being anything else is if the barrel is just heavily ported, then the can somehow goes over the ports.

No practical way to have the bullet go through a suppressor then re-enter a threaded barrel that I know of.

Personally, I'd just SBR the rifle and put about a 3 or 4" barrel in there, build a can that would just stick out of the front of the handguard, and call it good.

Byrdman

PS: Doubloon, I think you're confusing the cans that he is asking about. Of course, the cans you posted a pic of are rather...ummm...distracting. Ahem.

[a_canadian]

Seems it might be worthwhile, if the porting in the barrel is VERY heavy, as in something over 30% of the barrel being Swiss cheese inside the can. If the porting were clean, as in no burrs inside whatsoever (EDM, or maybe finish and rifle the bore after porting it) then that last portion of plain barrel might serve to re-establish the bullet's accuracy after all those vent holes and deliver decent group sizes. Then again with the dramatic drop in velocity you might not have enough push left to get the bullet out of the barrel. Or it might just sort of flop out onto the ground in front of you. Okay, maybe not, but it does seem like a lot of friction for what would plainly become a severely subsonic projectile if there were adequate porting in the suppressor area to significantly drop sound level. You'd want to do a fair bit of math I think before drilling anything, and be willing to cut that front portion of barrel down an inch at a time to find the magic length.

[doubloon]

...
PS: Doubloon, I think you're confusing the cans that he is asking about. Of course, the cans you posted a pic of are rather...ummm...distracting. Ahem.

I live confused and I'm still not sure what I'm looking at ... stealth can?

@brewertoo made the avatar after the first one I made was borrowed. made one for Russian too ... "Cthulhu ... so life like!"

[Brewertoo]

Ya, its kind of a stealth can. so I was going to wait for a few more comments to see what everybody thought, but I guess I'll just spill the beans. this is a fully functioning suppressed ruger SR-22. the barrel you see it the factory barrel. I drilled (didn't even mill them) 1/8" holes in in the barrel about 8" from the chamber. then fit the can over this porition of the barrel so it was oncealed in the forearm. make for lots less questions. if you shoot supersonic ammo, it sounds like a gunshot. if you shoot subsonic ammo, it sounds like a pellet gun. drawing to come.

[Brewertoo]

OK, here it is. I haven't chronoed the Bullets yet, but if you shoot supersonic ammo, you hear a crack so I don't think I am really losing much velocity. Haven't really checked accuracy yet either, but it has like 8" of barrel after going by the 12, 1/8" holes drilled in the barrel. I started out with one hole and kept adding until I got to where I wanted to be. 9 was just a little bit noisier than 12 but you could hardly tell the difference. of course, you hear the action more than you hear the gas escaping. I don't have any type of liquid or material in the tube, its just empty. it cycles every kind of ammo I have tried, even the 60 grain SSS. so I built this for raccoon hunting in semi-urban area's which is why I wanted to 'hide' the can. the fewer questions you get the less time you get detained. I don't have to get my paperwork out and I don't have to explain myself.

[a_canadian]

Sorry, but I'm not really understanding the part of the drawing with the holes in the barrel. Looks like you're saying you drilled 12 holes 1/8" diameter in about 1" of barrel, is that right? What's the reduced area of the barrel? Did you turn the barrel diameter down to really narrow just there? And again, did you de-burr at all? A 3/32" ball carver in a Dremel worked around the inside edge of each hole would take off most or all of any burrs left over from drilling and leave your bullet much less damaged on the way through.

[twodollarbill]

you hear a crack so I don't think I am really losing much velocity.

Putting your Ports closer to the chamber would of helped in decreasing the velocity.
You have established your velocity with 12" of barrel, kind of hard to slow a bullet down after that.
You best use sub-sonics with that setup.

[a_canadian]

You have established your velocity with 12" of barrel, kind of hard to slow a bullet down after that.

He said he'd bored the holes about 8" after the chamber, not 12". Still, I'm guessing even 6" would be would still keep super-sonics fast enough for a crack. Better to drop it to 4" or so if you want to go sub-sonic with fast rounds, from what I've been reading around here on integral .22" successes.

[twodollarbill]

He said he'd bored the holes about 8" after the chamber, not 12".

Sorry, my error....typing too fast.
and yes, around 4" to 4.5" is good, anything less you will may have cycling problems.
There was a design posted that those forward ports (like the OP's) were enlarged and
made like a muzzlbreak within the can. The rest of the barrel forward was bored out
to remove the rifling.

[Brewertoo]

Sorry, but I'm not really understanding the part of the drawing with the holes in the barrel. Looks like you're saying you drilled 12 holes 1/8" diameter in about 1" of barrel, is that right? What's the reduced area of the barrel? Did you turn the barrel diameter down to really narrow just there? And again, did you de-burr at all? A 3/32" ball carver in a Dremel worked around the inside edge of each hole would take off most or all of any burrs left over from drilling and leave your bullet much less damaged on the way through.

The smaller diameter of the barrel is just in the area that the holes are drilled in. the holes are drilled at 120 Degrees yielding 6 holes for every section. there are 4 sections so I guess that's 24 holes. my bad there. the drawing is a paint representation so you get the jist of the concept. its not really accurate.

the treaded midsection of the barrel is 3/4" X 14. because the barrel was about 3/4". so then I had to turn the muzzle end down to the size of the dimension of the trough of those threads so I could slide the can on. Then I could have left the chamber end of the barrel the same dimension but I turned it down to the same dimension as the muzzle end of the barrel for more volume. I did not de-burr with a dremel tool but that would work great. thanks for the idea. I just ran a jag through the barrel several times and re drilled the holes wallering them out, which I figured would do pretty good.

The reason I went as far out as I did on the holes is because I wanted to make sure the rifle cycled. I hadn't heard anything about 4-5 inches as a rule of thumb. the wholes are as far out as they could be and still have the can fit inside the forearm.

the main tube is stainless and the end pieces are 6160. the are simply press fit in the tube. then painted black. I had to turn the flash hider down too because it looked so big compared to the barrel when I got done turning the barrel down.

[doubloon]

That is about the most unique integral build I've ever seen ... but I'm sure that's not saying much for some around here.

[Tony M.]

A while ago I saw a Browning model 2 semi auto .22 that had an integral can (really just a large expansion chamber in conjunction with barrel ports) hidden in the hollowed out fore end. I didn't get to hear it shoot, but the concept was pretty neat, and I was told that it was quiet.

[ChimeraPrecision]

I assume since you're in CA you're an 07/02.

Care to post a vid of the can you made?

[doubloon]

...
Care to post a vid of the can you made?

Or start deleting posts like crazy.

It deserves a full write up so it can go in the Form 1 thread.

[ChimeraPrecision]

...
Care to post a vid of the can you made?

Or start deleting posts like crazy.

It deserves a full write up so it can go in the Form 1 thread.

I hope he does, we can edify the community we have here. Any knowledge we gain personally can support us collectively.

[Brewertoo]

You guys are making me feel so cool, I just might blush, even though with my skin color, its hard to do that.

So this is still in the 'research' phase.

What would you like to see in the vid? do you just want some shooting only or do you want an entire presentation of how I made it and a walk through? What were you thinking, I am happy to do one when I get some time.

[Brewertoo]

I have another design that is insanely simple as well that I am working on for an Smith and Weston M&P15-22. because the hand guard has a significantly smaller ID (1.300ish) I have decided that I will take the tube to about an inch from the muzzle. the I will make a piece that is the same OD as the pipe that will thread on to the muzzle. threading this piece on will make press the tube onto the barrel to seal it up. then I will turn the whole thing down and polish it so it looks like a bull barrel without a muzzle brake. I am going to build it from 304 Stainless since that is what I have on hand. I will have to turn the barrel down to about 0.500" to give me the same volume but I will probably not turn it down until I know I have to. that is, smaller than I have to get the pipe to slip over and press on to the barrel. I am planning to drill the same 18-24 1/8" holes and then assemble and check sound. if its not quiet enough for my liking, I will turn the barrel down and try again. then when I get it where I want, I'll turn the can down and polish.

[doubloon]

That one I might be leery of unless you planned to put the barrel under tension.

[Brewertoo]

That one I might be leery of unless you planned to put the barrel under tension.

What do you mean, in tension? do you mean make sure the tube is tight between the barrel and threaded muzzle piece?

[doubloon]

I mean that the end cap on the tube covering the barrel stretches the barrel against the receiver.

But I'm definitely no expert ... so any one of 100 people here can call bullshit on me at any moment.

I'm thinking the barrel and the tube will heat/cool, expand/contract at different rates so depending on how thin the barrel is and how the barrel binds at the muzzle you may or may not get some flex. Trapping and compressing the barrel would probably be bad for a thin barrel and I'm thinking something that slides like a trombone is maybe not the best design either. I *think* most integral designs that cover the whole barrel have an end cap that snugs the tube to the receiver using the barrel as leverage and thus naturally providing tension on the barrel.

[Baffled]

I'm a bit fuzzy on this - so all I have to do is turn a barrel skinny, port it, and surround ports with a tube, and I get effective suppression?