Yuasa vertical mill anyone?

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Dr.K
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Yuasa vertical mill anyone?

Post by Dr.K »

Found this just a few miles from my house. It turns on, and has a little rust, but seems to be in order.

The widow is asking $3000, and I can have any tooling that is there. I found a cigar sized box filled with endmills, and center drills. But I've never heard of this machine before. It seems very similar to the bridgeport that I used at a friends house.

Here are some pics. Let me know what you think.

Best,
Kyle O.

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Kyle O.
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Re: Yuasa vertical mill anyone?

Post by Historian »

I personally could never buy this ripe-for-punning old milling machine.

Especially if one were to discover that the city in Formosa where it was made
was UPA. :) :)

And for its age the price seems steep. I was offered a perfect old Bridgeport from
a modeling shop for $500.00 if I removed it out ASAP.

Check around the net to see what old mills of this class are being offered for first.

Good luck.
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Re: Yuasa vertical mill anyone?

Post by wp6529 »

$1,200 tops. Not in pristine shape, can't really tell the condition of the ways from the pics, no DRO, does have a power feed on the X axis. There would have to be a lot of quality tooling to make $3k remotely reasonable.
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Dr.K
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Re: Yuasa vertical mill anyone?

Post by Dr.K »

I was pretty sure the price was out of sight, but she had absolutely no clue and was likely throwing a wild $$$$ out there. I told her I would investigate, and get back with her in a week or so.

The ways had some rust and we're dirty, but everything moved. I'm certain there is not another machine closer than this one for at least 60 miles in any direction, so proximity is a huge selling point for me.

As far as the machine, is there something I should look for specifically that tends to be an issue? I'm just not up to speed on mills like I am lathes.
Kyle O.
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Re: Yuasa vertical mill anyone?

Post by wp6529 »

Dr.K wrote:I was pretty sure the price was out of sight, but she had absolutely no clue and was likely throwing a wild $$$$ out there. I told her I would investigate, and get back with her in a week or so.

The ways had some rust and we're dirty, but everything moved. I'm certain there is not another machine closer than this one for at least 60 miles in any direction, so proximity is a huge selling point for me.

As far as the machine, is there something I should look for specifically that tends to be an issue? I'm just not up to speed on mills like I am lathes.
The reality is that other than ease of personal inspection, the distance isn't really that important. It's the same amount of work to get a mill on and off a trailer whether you're going 5 miles or 500 miles. I've picked up machines more than 900 miles away when I found a good deal.

A Bridgeport in good condition typically sells for $1,500-$2,000 depending on details like hard chromed ways, power feeds and DROs. A new Chinese DRO will run you $750, power feeds $250. The idea is not to pay more than a given feature is worth if you had to add it yourself. Hard chromed ways aren't something you can add, but they are a definite plus and increase the value of the machine.

I'm sure the Yuasa branded Taiwan clone of a Bridgeport is a decent machine when new, but the key things to look for in any mill are:

- Condition of spindle brearings. Turn the spindle by hand and listen for roughness. Run the spindle under power and listen for any odd noises. If you don't find a container of suitable spindle oil there and an oil can filled with it, there is a good chance it hasn't been lubed regularly.

- Condition of the ways. Move the axes from end to end and examine the ways closely with a flashlight if needed to check wear. If you see a regular scrape pattern from when the ways were scraped perfectly flat when new across the full length of each way then there is little wear. If the ways don't show such a pattern there is a decent chance the mill has a lot of wear. If you have a precision straight edge you can hold it along the ways with a flashlight behind it to get an idea of any grossly low spots. There are different types / grades of ways, some are hard chromed, some are ground rather than hand scraped, etc. so there are subtleties to assessing the ways.

- Backlash. You can coarsely check backlash by running the table some distance in a given direction, zeroing or noteing the reading on the dial, then reversing and noting the distance the dial turns before you feel the load of the table moving as well. There is always some backlash, but it should be small, and equally important it should be consistent across the length of the axis travel. Often a mill gets used mostly within a smaller area in the center of the travel and ends up with significant wear in that area while further out from that area there is a lot less wear. This type of uneven wear is the most difficult to correct, as you can tighten the leadscrew nuts to reduce backlash if the wear is even, but if it's uneven you can't tighten it enough to correct for the worn area without making the unworn areas too tight.

- Gibs. There are tapered gibs that are used to take play out of the dovetail slides on the axes, they are adjustable to correct for wear. You can get an idea of their adjustment state from how easily the axes move, but it takes some experience to judge. There are also lock levers for each axis, and when engaged they should hold the table in position when you try to move it. If the lock don't work that is a good inidcation of a lot of wear and gibs out of adjustment.

For these checks, you can tell a lot without tools if you have experience using a mill in good condition, but to properly check you need to use a dial / test indicator to get actual measurements.

I do see the mill has a central lube pump for the ways, which is a plus both operationally and also by increasing the probability the ways have been kept properly lubed. Again check for the presence of a container of proper way lube nearby and that the central lube pump has been kept full.
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Capt. Link.
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Re: Yuasa vertical mill anyone?

Post by Capt. Link. »

I looks like a Katrina machine.Its worth the scrap price but would need lots of work.If it runs $750 with all the tools and that wooden chair.
Point out that new machines can be had for 5K delivered.
You have to hire a rigging crew to move it @ 500-1000$
Labor and paint is going cost lots of your time.
You will need to ship it if it needs other repairs.
Its a off brand.
Its a gamble for you!
$600.00 to replace the drill press vice alone.
Its most likely three phase see if a converter is present for sale.
This weighs about 2300lbs its no joke to move it!

It could be a pearl see if your Milling friend will check it out.
The only reason after 243 years the government now wants to disarm you is they intend to do something you would shoot them for!
http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=79895
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Re: Yuasa vertical mill anyone?

Post by wp6529 »

Capt. Link. wrote:I looks like a Katrina machine.Its worth the scrap price but would need lots of work.If it runs $750 with all the tools and that wooden chair.
Point out that new machines can be had for 5K delivered.
You have to hire a rigging crew to move it @ 500-1000$
Labor and paint is going cost lots of your time.
You will need to ship it if it needs other repairs.
Its a off brand.
Its a gamble for you!
$600.00 to replace the drill press vice alone.
Its most likely three phase see if a converter is present for sale.
This weighs about 2300lbs its no joke to move it!

It could be a pearl see if your Milling friend will check it out.
A standard Bridgeport mill (or clone) is quite easy to move by yourself, I've don't it a number of times. All you need is an engine hoist and some slings. Take the entire head / ram assembly off (four bolts at the turret) and you've removed a good chunk of the weight as well as lowered the CG considerably. You can move the upper and lower sections with the engine hoist as well, just lower it onto a couple 2Xs across the hoist legs while you roll it and it will keep it stable.

Yes, it will most likely have a three phase motor. If it doesn't come with a converter, a VFD is the way to go and will cost you $200-$250. A VFD will also give you soft start, braking on stop and variable speed.
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Capt. Link.
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Re: Yuasa vertical mill anyone?

Post by Capt. Link. »

It far cheaper to hire help than to be injured trying to save a dollar.You may know how to do it safely while he is just starting out.I have moved many machines but I can't send my experience through the mail.The cost of the equipment alone warrants consideration of hiring help.
The only reason after 243 years the government now wants to disarm you is they intend to do something you would shoot them for!
http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=79895
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Re: Yuasa vertical mill anyone?

Post by wp6529 »

Capt. Link. wrote:It far cheaper to hire help than to be injured trying to save a dollar.You may know how to do it safely while he is just starting out.I have moved many machines but I can't send my experience through the mail.The cost of the equipment alone warrants consideration of hiring help.
Bridgeport moves are common and there are many example videos on youtube ("moving a bridgeport mill" gets numerous examples), as well as slideshows and details on various web sites, the knowledge is readily available to do the job safely. It also appears from the pics posted that this is an easy access "real shop" location vs. in someone's basement. Certainly if the OP isn't confident in the move after reviewing the available information he shouldn't try it solo.
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Dr.K
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Re: Yuasa vertical mill anyone?

Post by Dr.K »

This was exactly the type of information I was looking for. BIG THANKS.

I checked the power supply, it's strait out of the breaker box, and doesn't have a converter anywhere in between, so I believe it is only direct 220V. For speed changes there are belt pulleys.

I will ask her if I can do another more thorough inspection of the machine, and if it all satisfies my taste, then I'll throw a price out there.

If the machine just has some surface rust, and everything else checks out would $900 be an insult? I have a shop crane, and am not uncomfortable moving big stuff.
Kyle O.
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Re: Yuasa vertical mill anyone?

Post by Capt. Link. »

Mills in this condition are penny's on the pound.
The offer of 900.00$ would be charitable and no insult.
Plan on leaving a card.
Good luck!
The only reason after 243 years the government now wants to disarm you is they intend to do something you would shoot them for!
http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=79895
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Re: Yuasa vertical mill anyone?

Post by wp6529 »

Light surface rust of the kind that can be removed with a Scotchbrite pad generally isn't an issue. It's a bit odd how the paint seems to be flaking everywhere, but perhaps the OEM paint job wasn't too good. If you want a picture perfect paint job, that will be a pretty labor intensive project to strip and repaint, but if you just want a working mill you can probably just ignore it.

If you're in an area prone to rust as may be the case judging from tis mill you say is nearby, get a bottle of LPS3 rust preventative and be sure to spray and wipe down all the non painted surfaces regularly.
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Re: Yuasa vertical mill anyone?

Post by bakerjw »

As stated so eloquently by others. Overpriced.
July 5th, 2016. The day that we moved from a soft tyranny to a hard tyranny.
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Dr.K
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Re: Yuasa vertical mill anyone?

Post by Dr.K »

She said she would not take less than $2000, so I told her I'd pass.

EDIT: She called me back 30 minutes later and said she would take $1500, I told her I would have to spend some time with it, and if EVERYTHING was in order and there was no slop in the machine then I would entertain that offer.
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Re: Yuasa vertical mill anyone?

Post by Historian »

Dr.K wrote:She said she would not take less than $2000, so I told her I'd pass.

EDIT: She called me back 30 minutes later and said she would take $1500, I told her I would have to spend some time with it, and if EVERYTHING was in order and there was no slop in the machine then I would entertain that offer.
Have you entertained the idea of seeking a machinist to do a serious check out for $75.00?

Similar to buying an old sports car.

You will be surprised what a trained tech can find.

If it turns out to be OK, personally I would give it less than 50% chance, then pull out $750.00 in cash
and let that be your 'best and final offer'.

Good luck.
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Re: Yuasa vertical mill anyone?

Post by paul463 »

I'd also put an end mill in the collet, snug it up and check the runout with an indicator. On my Millrite, someone had spun a collet or two and the runout was over .003". I managed to set up a grinder and get it down to .001", which is manageable with larger cutters, but was a PITA with anything smaller than 3/16".

I recently lucked out and got a complete head for it with a perfect spindle for $165. :D
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