This maybe seems too simple, but here are my questions...
My thought is to buy an 16" AR .22 LR (probably a TacSol) complete upper with a solid, unvented handguard.
Remove handguard and drill a few holes in the barrel starting at 4.5" (to keep everything subsonic).
Seal up the hand guard (to the barrel) on each end w/ aluminum caps, fill void inside the handguard around bbl. with SS wool. (I know this will need to be changed out occasionally.)
Questions...
1. The 8" or so of rifled barrel AFTER the suppressor holes should really seal up the bullet and give the gases time to bleed off, how many holes would be needed to allow this...and what size?
2. What will the holes do to accuracy?
3. How will this work for suppression?
4. On the Form one application, since it would be an integral supressor, would I mark the forend tube with the info, as it would be the outer tube or is the whole upper registered together as a unit...ie.,would I list TacSol or just myself as manufacturer?
Question on ported barrel integral .22 LR suppressor for AR
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- Bendersquint
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Re: Question on ported barrel integral .22 LR suppressor for
You can not use steel wool as it is not allowed to be replaced by individuals, see the ruling on Chore Boy from the NFA Branch. The only user replaceable parts of a silencer are disc wipes.Hellbender wrote:This maybe seems too simple, but here are my questions...
My thought is to buy an 16" AR .22 LR (probably a TacSol) complete upper with a solid, unvented handguard.
Remove handguard and drill a few holes in the barrel starting at 4.5" (to keep everything subsonic).
Seal up the hand guard (to the barrel) on each end w/ aluminum caps, fill void inside the handguard around bbl. with SS wool. (I know this will need to be changed out occasionally.)
Questions...
1. The 8" or so of rifled barrel AFTER the suppressor holes should really seal up the bullet and give the gases time to bleed off, how many holes would be needed to allow this...and what size?
2. What will the holes do to accuracy?
3. How will this work for suppression?
4. On the Form one application, since it would be an integral supressor, would I mark the forend tube with the info, as it would be the outer tube or is the whole upper registered together as a unit...ie.,would I list TacSol or just myself as manufacturer?
If you go this route also realize that you are creating an SBR/pistol length upper, so be sure not to put it on a rifle unless its registered as an SBR.
1 - There is nothing publicly posted about sizes you are looking for. Always remember with silencers you can remove material, just can't add it back....start small and minimal holes and increase till you get the results you desire.
2 - Depending on how you make the ports it can vary from no impact on accuracy or incredible impact on accuracy. How are you planning on making the ports?
3 - It will not give you much suppression, you need baffles to get decent suppression.
4 - Yes on the Form1 you would mark the tube. YOU are the manufacturer of the silencer if you file a Form1.
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Re: Question on ported barrel integral .22 LR suppressor for
Thank you for the fast reply!
Since I would be the manufacturer (form 1) wouldn't I be able to replace the wool, as it would be not be the tube, it would be just a replacement part, just like a damaged baffle? I would be careful to thoroughly destroy the old wool first so it would never be a danger to the public again.
I would be leaving the barrel length at 16.25" (even though I also have stamps for 2 SBR AR's).
I have a mill and just planned on drilling some holes as needed, then lapping w/ a lead slug.
Just the idea of the 8" of rifled barrel AFTER the suppressor holes would seem to be the best bullet wipe you could get, and keep the accuracy.
I hoped the very large internal volume (8" long x 2" dia.) of the forend would keep the sound levels very low.
That's what I thought on the registration, but I have never done an integral before.
Thanks again.
Since I would be the manufacturer (form 1) wouldn't I be able to replace the wool, as it would be not be the tube, it would be just a replacement part, just like a damaged baffle? I would be careful to thoroughly destroy the old wool first so it would never be a danger to the public again.
I would be leaving the barrel length at 16.25" (even though I also have stamps for 2 SBR AR's).
I have a mill and just planned on drilling some holes as needed, then lapping w/ a lead slug.
Just the idea of the 8" of rifled barrel AFTER the suppressor holes would seem to be the best bullet wipe you could get, and keep the accuracy.
I hoped the very large internal volume (8" long x 2" dia.) of the forend would keep the sound levels very low.
That's what I thought on the registration, but I have never done an integral before.
Thanks again.
- Bendersquint
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Re: Question on ported barrel integral .22 LR suppressor for
You are the manufacturer for NFA MARKING purposes, for all other purposes you are just a MAKER.
Only LICENSED MANUFACTURERS(07/02's) can replace chore boy, steel wool, chicken wire , baffles, endcaps, mounts, spacers etc...
You as the maker can not replace ANYTHING on your can.
I think you are in for a disappointment with just ports in a barrel, IMHO its a waste of a stamp. Sounds levels would drop but not as much as you think.
Only LICENSED MANUFACTURERS(07/02's) can replace chore boy, steel wool, chicken wire , baffles, endcaps, mounts, spacers etc...
You as the maker can not replace ANYTHING on your can.
I think you are in for a disappointment with just ports in a barrel, IMHO its a waste of a stamp. Sounds levels would drop but not as much as you think.
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Re: Question on ported barrel integral .22 LR suppressor for
I'll rethink my direction, I don't want to waste a stamp!
Re: Question on ported barrel integral .22 LR suppressor for
Bender
I have a question about adding metal. If say had a slight baffle strike could it be repaired buy the form 1 person by welding hole closed and then drilling new hole?
I have a question about adding metal. If say had a slight baffle strike could it be repaired buy the form 1 person by welding hole closed and then drilling new hole?
- Bendersquint
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Re: Question on ported barrel integral .22 LR suppressor for
You can not add metal to the silencer without a stamp as it is considered to be making a new part.grrifles wrote:Bender
I have a question about adding metal. If say had a slight baffle strike could it be repaired buy the form 1 person by welding hole closed and then drilling new hole?
Re: Question on ported barrel integral .22 LR suppressor for
If you want to go as planned first, go with Wire mesh as it can be bought in stainless or brass. it can be welded / soldered in a roll and can be cleaned by soaking and rinsing.Bendersquint wrote: You can not use steel wool as it is not allowed to be replaced by individuals, see the ruling on Chore Boy from the NFA Branch. The only user replaceable parts of a silencer are disc wipes.
One could also go with rolls like donuts with dividing rings / baffles in between them, so one has sections of wire mesh rolls.
This was done in the past on several models in 22 and bigger pistol calibers
Gunny.