Yes, it can be legal to make a silencer. For everything Form-1, from silencer designs that are easily made, to filing forms with the BATF, to 3D modeling. Remember, you must have an approved BATF Form-1 to make a silencer. All NFA laws apply.
Ive had this form sitting here for 2 months and its been killing me that I havent had time to build it. I finally made the time this weekend to spin this thing up. Ive spent a really really really long time planning this thing and after many many revisions to my design I came up with this;
I took a bunch of pics along the way to show how I went through this. I used 316 Stainless for the endcaps and tubes cause I need to weld them together and 416 stainless for the baffles.
Making the mount end cap.
The other endcap.
The Baffles.
[url=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/McLarenross/media/Facebook/Mobile%20Uploads-2/20140823_160218_zpsdqznyyc6.jpg.html]
I didnt have a small enough boring bar to finish out the last bit of the ID there so I had to resort to the cheating way. lol.
Put it all together and heres what ya get.
There are no "ex-Marines", just Marines who arent active anymore.
Ive gotta wait till the week to swing by my guy and get it all welded up. Then Ill throw it on my blackout with some subs and see how she sounds. Gotta make another brake for the 308 and run some real rounds through it then.
There are no "ex-Marines", just Marines who arent active anymore.
Very very nice! I'm curious about your muzzle devise if you don't mind. What are the threads screwing on the silencer, and what is the degree of the matting shoulder?
I used 7/8x20 60* threads for this and the lockup shoulder behind them is 30*. I was gonna use a coarser ACME or Stub ACME but I just said screw it and went with a standard thread. The 30* mating surfaces lock up very solid and Im excited to try it out once its all welded.
There are no "ex-Marines", just Marines who arent active anymore.
McLarenross wrote:I used 7/8x20 60* threads for this and the lockup shoulder behind them is 30*. I was gonna use a coarser ACME or Stub ACME but I just said screw it and went with a standard thread. The 30* mating surfaces lock up very solid and Im excited to try it out once its all welded.
I'm looking to do a two start stub ACME on mine. I'm even contemplating some sort of interrupted thread. You wouldn't happen to have any photos of the muzzle devise being made would you?
Unfortunately I didnt take any pics of the brake being made. Ive cut plenty of multi-start acme threads but I always had servos to help me with them. lol. Never done multi-start on my manual and dont get to play on the CNCs anymore so I just ruld that out. Consider that the threads on my brake are only 3/8" long and 1/2" to the shoulder so regular 8tpi acme thread would only require 4 full turns to lock up fully. Is it really worth the headache to cut those 2 start acme ID threads in stainless or Ti for just 2 more turns?
There are no "ex-Marines", just Marines who arent active anymore.
Oh, another question (I know, i'm just full of them). That 60* cheat you used. Six flute?, and what size and material? Thanks again.
BTW, I have Form 1s in hand for two silencers. One is going to be all titanium to be used mostly with 300blk. The other will be all 416 stainless to be used mostly with my 308 stuff. BUT, I plan on the same muzzle device specs all around so that the silencers can be used on any of the rifles. Heck, I've even got one 556 AR that I'll put a muzzle device on too.
I've done a LOT of thinking on this, but not much cutting. . .
No problem at all. Its a 7/8" HSS countersink I found on eBay for $25. It worked fine but a carbide would have been better. It was slow going with the HSS and the SS galled a little on the edges cause I could only go so fast.
You were paying attention in class!!! Superb
The reward will be when you pull the trigger.
The only reason after 243 years the government now wants to disarm you is they intend to do something you would shoot them for!
http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=79895
I'm thinking that making my muzzle device is going to be a three step process. I'll do the internal part first. Then I'll remove the peace and put it on a mandrel between centers driven by a dog. At that point I'll do all the outside stuff. Then I'll move over to the little horizontal milling machine I have to mill out the ports.
Was your process similar? I'm just wondering if I'm over complicating the process.
Depends on the design of your brake but I was able to do mine without the between centers. I did the bore and ID first obviously. Next I put a 5/8x24 mandrel in the chuck and indicated it in and screwed the brake on the mandrel. From here I did faced to length and did the OD profile as well as threading. Im not a fan of turning between centers just cause I seem to always let the part slip somehow and mess it up. Between centers should work though. Im going to have to make a second brake soon so ill take pics of that as I go.
There are no "ex-Marines", just Marines who arent active anymore.
Sorry if this is off the mark but it seems no one's mentioned clipping the cones yet and that's something I've come to expect with baffles like this. Isn't partially clipping the entry point of each cone desirable for increased turbulence/suppression? Be a shame to weld it up without taking advantage of every feature which might improve efficiency first. But if it's not relevant for this design... well, it looks good, nice work, especially on the brake.
I am gonna clip the middle cones actually. If you look at the CAD at the top of the first post youll see the clipping. I took the pics fresh off the lathe so the mill work hasn't been completed.
Thanks for the complements.
There are no "ex-Marines", just Marines who arent active anymore.
McLarenross wrote:I am gonna clip the middle cones actually. If you look at the CAD at the top of the first post youll see the clipping. I took the pics fresh off the lathe so the mill work hasn't been completed.
Thanks for the complements.
Nice job, looks to me that you are making a great silencer.
3 questions
1 are you going to port the stabilizing ring that is in the front of your brake in your silencer?
2 why do you want to have the clipping of the baffles 180 degree from each other as in the drawing?
3 is the welding going to be done between centers on a welding lathe? ( heat buildup - warping etc.)
1. No I am leaving the stabilizing ring sold so that it forms a separate blast chamber with the muzzle brake being the initial baffles.
2. Ive seen it done both ways but I think that having them 180* opposing will cause some cross jetting of the gasses and hopefully help suppression. Ive seen this concept in use with K-Baffles in 22 cans and pistol cans but there just isn't many examples of people clipping cones on 60* smooth cones. I did see that the 7.62SD-SDN6 (iirc) uses 180* opposing clips.
3. I actually made a jig to hold the endcaps in compression while welding and my guy is gonna tack it at 4 places around the circumference before seam welding it.
There are no "ex-Marines", just Marines who arent active anymore.
McLarenross wrote:1. No I am leaving the stabilizing ring sold so that it forms a separate blast chamber with the muzzle brake being the initial baffles.
2. Ive seen it done both ways but I think that having them 180* opposing will cause some cross jetting of the gasses and hopefully help suppression. Ive seen this concept in use with K-Baffles in 22 cans and pistol cans but there just isn't many examples of people clipping cones on 60* smooth cones. I did see that the 7.62SD-SDN6 (iirc) uses 180* opposing clips.
3. I actually made a jig to hold the endcaps in compression while welding and my guy is gonna tack it at 4 places around the circumference before seam welding it.
No, incorrect on 180° clipping on any AAC product. M42000, sdn6, sd etc all "clips" are lined up same oriantation. Fwiw, remember they spent 100s of thousands on r&d to arrive at this.
After double checking you are correct sir. I put the baffles all in the tube today after marking it and had it welded up. Threw it on my 300 Blackout and put a few rounds through it. Defiantly hearing safe I think. I'll post some pics shortly. Thanks a million for everyones input and help. I've already got more planned.
There are no "ex-Marines", just Marines who arent active anymore.
Very nice. I plan to do a brake mount very similar to yours, using the brake as the first real baffles, with the brake supported on the end by fitting into the first baffle plate. I still haven't started turning anything up yet, but plan to as soon as I get back to the States and my shop. It's killing me to get started. Sigh. One question for you, how does your brake perform without the suppressor attached? I'm hoping to have a multi-gun mount, like yours, that also performs well as a stand alone brake. If yours works well,,,, no need for me to reinvent the wheel. Semper Fi
I havent actually shot this brake without the can so I cant speak to how effective it is. Brakes really arent rocket science though so you should be able to figure something out. If you wanna use this design, by all means be my guest. I like it.
Here are some pics of the can all welded up and attachedto my SBR Blackout.
There are no "ex-Marines", just Marines who arent active anymore.
