The hazards of loaning out a beater can

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ranb
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The hazards of loaning out a beater can

Post by ranb »

I've put about 8000 rounds through my 5.56 can over the years putting it on the rifle of anyone who was interested. It is 4130 tube, end caps and blast baffle, everything else is 6061 aluminum. It was my first steel/welded can, so that's why I did it that way. I plan on making an all stainless welded core can in a few years after I get 10k rounds through the beater can. I figure I can make due with this one unless I damage the blast baffle, ruin the threads or bulge the tube.

Last week I let a guy use it on his AR. This week I had it on my new SBR AR-15 and noticed I was a few feet off the target at 25 yards. I had checked alignment when installing the can and while there was the usual severe gas cutting I guess I didn't notice the additional baffle strikes which were more visible after taking another look.

I drilled out the last few baffles with a drill bit and cleaned up the end with a reamer. Good for another 2000 rounds I hope.

Image

The arrow indicates the larger defect that was touching the bullets and making them yaw.

Ranb
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RPM509
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Re: The hazards of loaning out a beater can

Post by RPM509 »

Ouch.
SBR - un-stabilized bullets?
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ranb
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Re: The hazards of loaning out a beater can

Post by ranb »

Going to say no to yawing bullets, they were fine without the can. The SBR shoots fine suppressed since the repair. I think the gas cut baffles are slowing deforming and touching the bullets as they pass through.

Ranb
Last edited by ranb on Sat Sep 06, 2014 3:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.
SilencerTalk was a place I could disccuss making registered silencers without being told I was a criminal. That is no longer true. http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=132&t=99273
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Capt. Link.
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Re: The hazards of loaning out a beater can

Post by Capt. Link. »

Ranb The damage to the baffles is obvious but in light of number of rounds fired on untold host weapons I think the suppressor has to be considered a great success.I would have never thought that 6061 would hold up as well as it has in 5.56 nato.I for one would like more technical information on the can itself the baffles and erosion growth caused by gas cutting and the baffle collapse.
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ranb
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Re: The hazards of loaning out a beater can

Post by ranb »

The baffles are all about .070" thick. The blast baffle is a 4130 cone, the rest are aluminum K's. The tube and end caps are 4130. The 1.5" tube started out with .065" walls but I turned them down to about .045", it is 7.5" long.

None of the baffles actually collapsed, the silencer still works. I was able to eliminate the obstructions in the bore so I can use it a while longer until I replace it with an all stainless can.

Ranb
SilencerTalk was a place I could disccuss making registered silencers without being told I was a criminal. That is no longer true. http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=132&t=99273
desertland
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Re: The hazards of loaning out a beater can

Post by desertland »

8K on 6061 guts? I'm impressed. I've got 3 form 1's back and need to get past the "thinking" part and start machining. Am stuck with a pretty small lathe and was not looking forward to cutting K baffles but aluminum would make life easier on me.

Suppose the same design concept would work on a .308?

You TIG weld the caps?
ranb
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Re: The hazards of loaning out a beater can

Post by ranb »

Yes, about 8k on aluminum guts. Keep in mind the blast baffle is 4130 steel and it rarely got heated enough to damage the cheap Krylon paint I put on it. I'm sure the blast baffle would be mostly gone by now if it was also made from aluminum. I used to use a wire feed welder, but now I use TiG. I tried to use MiG on a stainless 308 can, but the penetration on the front end cap was poor and I blew the guts out. After finding them all I bought a TiG machine and welded it up properly.

I really don't recommend aluminum for anything now, even rim fire. Over the years all of my rim fire cans have stuck together and can't be taken apart. This includes my 22lr, 9mm, 458 Socom, 300 Whisper and 510 Whisper cans. I'm done with aluminum, period. I want something I can chemically or ultrasonically clean and never have to take apart unless it is to repair baffle strikes. I know how to cut a weld.

I guess aluminum will work on a 308, but I'm not going to find out.

All of my future cans will be welded stainless baffle stacks with a thin tube covering it. Unless I learn how to work titanium or inconel. :)

Ranb
SilencerTalk was a place I could disccuss making registered silencers without being told I was a criminal. That is no longer true. http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=132&t=99273
desertland
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Re: The hazards of loaning out a beater can

Post by desertland »

So did you thread first and weld it in the tube or weld first and then thread? I'm stuck with a little lathe so on a 10" tube I could not face it of and then thread it.
ranb
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Re: The hazards of loaning out a beater can

Post by ranb »

I square off the tube ends, then make the rear end cap as square as possible. The hole is drilled then cut with a tool bit to ensure it is centered and the right diameter prior to cutting threads in it. I ran a 13/16-20 tap through the end cap then welded it to the tube. The baffle stack and end caps are pressed tightly together for the tacks, then I put the can in my lathe and turned it under the torch to get a straight consistent bead.

For the 223 can shown, it mounted on a muzzle brake I made, but that brake is stuck for good in the end cap now.

For my 308 can (direct threaded on), I mounted the completed can in the lathe with a steady rest then cut about .002" off the back of the cap to ensure it mated squarely with the barrel shoulder. The end cap mating surface is recessed into the cap.

Ranb
SilencerTalk was a place I could disccuss making registered silencers without being told I was a criminal. That is no longer true. http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=132&t=99273
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