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First time suppressor design

Posted: Thu Oct 02, 2014 7:51 am
by harley_rkc
Form 1's will be mailed out Monday. I'd get them out quicker but life has been interrupted by deer season here.

I'm looking to design or copy a known design for a .223 on an AR platform, but I'm wondering if I can build this to also be used on a 22-250 bolt gun as well? If so, should I be focusing on the 22-250 or the .223 for the best results?

Re: First time suppressor design

Posted: Fri Oct 03, 2014 12:29 pm
by harley_rkc
After lots of reading it sounds like I'd be better off putting the next suppressor i plan on building on the 22-250 due to difference in pressures.. Which leads to a different question. If I build a .308 suppressor with a removeable end cap, can I legally posess a spare end cap with a smaller bore for the 22-250? I'm asking because I read about a .556 end cap being used on a Saker 7.62 with better results then the Saker .556.

Re: First time suppressor design

Posted: Fri Oct 03, 2014 12:48 pm
by Capt. Link.
harley_rkc wrote:After lots of reading it sounds like I'd be better off putting the next suppressor i plan on building on the 22-250 due to difference in pressures.. Which leads to a different question. If I build a .308 suppressor with a removeable end cap, can I legally posess a spare end cap with a smaller bore for the 22-250? I'm asking because I read about a .556 end cap being used on a Saker 7.62 with better results then the Saker .556.
No you can't to find out why https://www.atf.gov/content/firearms (F-1)
A larger suppressor is more effective in most cases the more restrictive end cap enhances the reduction.

Re: First time suppressor design

Posted: Fri Oct 03, 2014 1:59 pm
by harley_rkc
Capt. Link. wrote:
harley_rkc wrote:After lots of reading it sounds like I'd be better off putting the next suppressor i plan on building on the 22-250 due to difference in pressures.. Which leads to a different question. If I build a .308 suppressor with a removeable end cap, can I legally posess a spare end cap with a smaller bore for the 22-250? I'm asking because I read about a .556 end cap being used on a Saker 7.62 with better results then the Saker .556.
No you can't to find out why https://www.atf.gov/content/firearms (F-1)
A larger suppressor is more effective in most cases the more restrictive end cap enhances the reduction.
I assumed the spare cap would be considered another part making it illegal. I just don't understand how anyone can posess the spare cap for the Saker.
Oh well, I already have a commercial .308 can pending so maybe ill build one of these specifically for the 22-250.

Re: First time suppressor design

Posted: Fri Oct 03, 2014 4:09 pm
by Capt. Link.
harley_rkc wrote: I assumed the spare cap would be considered another part making it illegal. I just don't understand how anyone can posess the spare cap for the Saker.
Oh well, I already have a commercial .308 can pending so maybe ill build one of these specifically for the 22-250.
Outstanding I get tired of people that don't know the basics.
Most likely the individual either has a 02/07 or owns both suppressors and is committing a felony by switching end caps.

Building for the 22-250 is special in my opinion if you are a varmint shooter in particular. A 30 caliber can will do good service on the 22-250 in most cases without a .224 sized exit aperture so changing the front cap is sort of pointless. You could then either build a duel caliber 22-250/5.56 or just build the smaller lighter 5.56 suppressor.

Do you bring a skill-set and tools into this hobby or are you starting new.

Re: First time suppressor design

Posted: Fri Oct 03, 2014 5:22 pm
by harley_rkc
For starters I already have a growing NFA collection so I have the basics down already on the laws, though I'm always willing to learn if it keeps me on the legal side. I've been into suppressors for only short time due to them only more recently becoming legal here. I have few already and few more pending, but thought I'd build this time.

I've been a pipefitter for 21 years specializing in the service and repair end of the industry. Theres not much I can't weld on though I'm not currently set up for aluminum, the largest machine in my home shop is an 18 x 76 engine lathe, welding is second nature my Miller CST 280 which does TIG fairly well. My home shop is a strange conglomeration of part wood shop and part machine shop. I've built everything from a rock crawler out of a 1976 CJ Jeep to an entire stainless all grain home brew setup for making beer. Fabrication doesn't scare me and I'm always trying to learn a new skill set.

However , for this little adventure I have access to a complete cnc lab and the lab instructor will also be applying for a Form 1. Right now I'm just doing my homework and gathering information so that he can work up a drawing in solidworks.

Currently were looking at using 304 ss, 1.625 diameter .065 wall thickness. A welded endcap on one end and threaded on the other. Looking at a 2.5" blast chamber, a flat .125 first baffle with a .264 bore, followed by 8 cone baffles with a .284 bore. The baffles will be 60 degree .060 thick with a .030 spacer. Still looking at smooth vs. stepped cones.

But everything we've put on paper right now is up for debate and I'm really hoping for some good input.

Re: First time suppressor design

Posted: Sun Oct 05, 2014 10:23 pm
by theserxtremedays
I have questioned that too as to how Silencerco has been able to legally do a few things, the extra endcaps on the Saker and the variable length setup on the salvo.

Re: First time suppressor design

Posted: Sun Oct 05, 2014 10:49 pm
by Scared_of_zombies
harley_rkc wrote:For starters I already have a growing NFA collection so I have the basics down already on the laws, though I'm always willing to learn if it keeps me on the legal side. I've been into suppressors for only short time due to them only more recently becoming legal here. I have few already and few more pending, but thought I'd build this time.

I've been a pipefitter for 21 years specializing in the service and repair end of the industry. Theres not much I can't weld on though I'm not currently set up for aluminum, the largest machine in my home shop is an 18 x 76 engine lathe, welding is second nature my Miller CST 280 which does TIG fairly well. My home shop is a strange conglomeration of part wood shop and part machine shop. I've built everything from a rock crawler out of a 1976 CJ Jeep to an entire stainless all grain home brew setup for making beer. Fabrication doesn't scare me and I'm always trying to learn a new skill set.

However , for this little adventure I have access to a complete cnc lab and the lab instructor will also be applying for a Form 1. Right now I'm just doing my homework and gathering information so that he can work up a drawing in solidworks.

Currently were looking at using 304 ss, 1.625 diameter .065 wall thickness. A welded endcap on one end and threaded on the other. Looking at a 2.5" blast chamber, a flat .125 first baffle with a .264 bore, followed by 8 cone baffles with a .284 bore. The baffles will be 60 degree .060 thick with a .030 spacer. Still looking at smooth vs. stepped cones.

But everything we've put on paper right now is up for debate and I'm really hoping for some good input.
Go .100 on the first cone, skip the flat blast baffle with smaller hole. Go smooth cones and .5 spacers.

Most people go 1.5"x10" for the general size.

Re: First time suppressor design

Posted: Wed Oct 08, 2014 10:43 pm
by nhoj_yelbom
silencerco saker endcaps do not hold the baffle stack in, so it can be swapped as a accessory. i think also the suppressor can always be shorter than whats stated but not longer