Rifle Flashlight suppressor end cap analysis (observation)

[cpy911]

Just out of curiosity, not planning on building one, but this guy is selling maglite flashlight suppressor platform parts.

The example below is for a full house rifle can (.308). I was wondering what people thought about the aluminum end caps? (with a carbon steel body). My concern is the barrel side end cap thread engagement looks on the small side. Seems like .5" or .6" of thread engagement on the barrel side end cap would be better. It is hard to tell the actual thread engagement of the end cap, but it looks on the small side.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YlpSOLcmHEQ

Thoughts?

[Historian]

Just out of curiosity, not planning on building one, but this guy is selling maglite flashlight suppressor platform parts.

The example below is for a full house rifle can (.308). I was wondering what people thought about the aluminum end caps? (with a carbon steel body). My concern is the barrel side end cap thread engagement looks on the small side. Seems like .5" or .6" of thread engagement on the barrel side end cap would be better. It is hard to tell the actual thread engagement of the end cap, but it looks on the small side.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YlpSOLcmHEQ

Thoughts?

This YouTube was discussed in a past post and again, as I observed then,
drilling on a drill press 'free hand' can, if the drill and metal bind, free a few
fingers or send shrapnel into you eye. Please practice safety. Use a vise* ( some
misspell it 'vice' which in itself should not be avoided )

Be safe.


* << http://image.made-in-china.com/4f0j00re ... -Vises.jpg >>

<< http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=33Yr5fllRXM >>

<< http://vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/ ... x?id=14237 >>

[c5_nc]

Seems like .5" or .6" of thread engagement on the barrel side end cap would be better.
Thoughts?

There video is outdated product wise, there are aftermarket flashlight tubes in steel and aluminum that are ID threaded on both ends without holes (made for end cap button switches). If putting together centerfire can you would probably put rockset on these threads.

[samson7x]

My concern would be the aluminum construction material. Why wouldn't they make that out of steel? Is it strong enough with full power rounds?

[cpy911]

My concern would be the aluminum construction material. Why wouldn't they make that out of steel? Is it strong enough with full power rounds?

That was another thought I had. He is shooting a .308 through a steel tube and aluminum end caps that might have an engagement of .5". I wonder how many rounds until the can blows off at the end cap?

[sickasssig]

My first post here great forum here love it it inspired me to build a form 1 suppressor for 223 and 22lr from a maglight tube and I used the original end cap with a monocore baffle that slides through the opposite side I hacked off right behind the button its a d cell light it dont see much use on the ar but it hasn't had any problems just slow fire semi auto but I shoot the hell out of it on 22 lr I will post pics as soon as I figure out how

[doubloon]

My concern would be the aluminum construction material. Why wouldn't they make that out of steel? Is it strong enough with full power rounds?

He calls it "high power" but the comments specify subsonic loads. For full power round durability maybe only Mr. Owl knows.

[IslandTimes]

I emailed them two weeks ago asking about steel or SS end caps. They said these were planned and only a couple weeks out.

[cboger]

I emailed them two weeks ago asking about steel or SS end caps. They said these were planned and only a couple weeks out.

Glad im not the only one who did this.

[cpy911]

I would think that this would work ok, with steel end caps and steel tube should be strong enough. So long as there is .5" or so of thread engagement. Can't tell from the pictures, but it looks less than .5" thread engagement.

I emailed them two weeks ago asking about steel or SS end caps. They said these were planned and only a couple weeks out.

Glad im not the only one who did this.

[tripntx]

The SDTA brake is made out of SS http://www.sdtacticalarms.com/SDTA-Muzz ... _p_65.html
The SDTA carbon tube is now offered in 6" length http://www.sdtacticalarms.com/SPECIAL_p_47.html
I read on another site that SDTA will have steel end pieces available by the end of this week.

This is making me want to Form 1 a 6" carbon steel! Five store bought Form 4's, but I like the novelty of building my own. I do not weld, nor do I have access to lathe or mills. I could contract having ends welded with approved Form 1 in hand, but trying to explain to local businesses that it's legal is just something I'd rather not waste a lot of time trying to do. Threaded is the best way for "me" to make one. The carbon steel tube was enticing at 8.3" long, but 6" would be perfect for 300 BLK and 277 WLV SBR's. I'd rather use homebuilt Form 1 on them than a high dollar Form 4.

The other thing holding me back was the aluminum mag thread protectors. They have too much material, appeared to add 1/2" inch external length to each end (1" overall external additional length). Also, the center marked end seems to be too solid. I want it dished/hollowed out some. I sent them an email last night asking about steel end pieces being flush fit. If they cut down on excess material, then I'd like to use 6" tube with SDTA brake, and form plugs into baffles with vice/socket/ball bearing. Hmm, 8 plugs take up approx. 3", and the end pieces take up 1" internal, which only leaves 2" unused space at muzzle end. I'd like to use a SS fender washer as blast baffle. Wonder how far into the blast chamber the SDTA brake would protrude? It would be nice if it would lightly touch the fender washer, and hold all the plugs in place without having to add additional metal spacer which adds more weight.

I wouldn't want to be threading aluminum onto direct 5/8's barrel or onto brake threads much, but I believe the downrange end piece in aluminum would hold up just fine. Take the aluminum end piece, shave off all but 1/16" exposed, then remove a lot of excess material from center of what remains. The next problem I see, how do you (home form 1 builder) threat the remaining bare aluminum?

Honing inside the tube would allow the plugs to fit more "loosely" to allow easier disassembly for inspection. Just need a way for all the plugs to be pushed towards downrange end when assembled. This product is priced right for honing inside tube http://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.com/Ec ... 8C156.aspx

[c5_nc]

Just a couple observations since I have one in process:

The thread area is .026".

There are other companies that make them out of 7075 Aluminum, which is approaches some Steel variations strength, and some that are hollowed out more, and some that have longer thread lengths. SD will not clarify the aluminum they use, I assume it is 6061.

SD has already made carbon steel ID end caps, you can call in a order or wait for them to be added to the website. I get the impression they are solid but I should know for sure in a day or two. Not too easy to drill steel out with a hand drill, so they are not really suitable for those throwing these together at home. They would be really heavy without removing material.

If SD did make a hollow steel end cap the ID of the cap would be smaller than the ID of the tube. This is because of the threads, so that leaves you several options. If your doing the press fit you would have to have the last 34.3mm baffle rest agaist the end cap and use the end cap as a larger than typical final baffle, or you would have to figure out a baffle and spacer system for whatever ID the end cap is. If they made it a common diameter for plugs and tubing that would make things a lot easier.

The aluminum ends are solid metal, like a about a 1" in depth, these should take some abuse. On the barrel end with a QD mount only a very small part of aluminum would be exposed and it would be anodized and about 1" of depth here. On the muzzle end that would be shielded with a Steel baffle.

[c5_nc]

Here is the deal, I spoke with them today and their current plan is to in a couple weeks to produce carbon steel end caps and thread adapters (in 1/2, 5/8, Griffin QD) but these are going to be exactly like the aluminum ones, which is going to make them really really heavy and pretty much unusable. The guy is doing all the machine work and is going 18hrs a day, so they don't really have much reason to change things, except they are tired of me and others annoying them.

I could use some help with schematics that could be used for solvent trap parts that would be easier to use for form 1 builders. I'm not good with the CAD/blueprint type figures that a lot of users here post. Can anyone illustrate a design that would save weight for me to pass along? I have their personal cell phone, etc I can get them the info. There is nothing in it for us, other than a chance to influence the design.

1- A center marked ID end cap that has appropriate thread length but is hopefully shorter and steel is thick enough to be sufficient but not to heavy (.065"?) on the end, thicker at the threaded area?
2- ID Adapters that would be of a shorter length than they are doing with aluminum and maybe lightened if possible.

[tripntx]

This is directed towards the aluminum end caps which has 1/2" material on outside of tube.

Would mill bits and sliding vice work on a drill press to take the external portion down from 1/2" to 1/8"?

I would use a freeze plug butted up flush against barrel end cap to protect internal aluminum from blast.

How's this for a blast baffle before first formed freeze plug? http://www.cvproducts.com/ProdDet.aspx?PN=XRE526-LTW

[friendlysniper]

Is there a thread that has information/a guide on what to use (socket, ball bearing) and how to press the baffles? I haven't been able to find that by searching. Ideally I need a step by step guide with links to which sockets and ball bearings work best with the dorman 555-104 freeze plugs that fit the d cell size tube.

[c5_nc]

Is there a thread that has information/a guide on what to use (socket, ball bearing) and how to press the baffles? I haven't been able to find that by searching. Ideally I need a step by step guide with links to which sockets and ball bearings work best with the dorman 555-104 freeze plugs that fit the d cell size tube.

I see you found the other tread. Others have said the Dorman 555-104 plugs have changed? Napa part 3813179 (which is a SEP 3813179) is what I used, $.69ea. Test fit yours in the jig and tube before you form them.

[friendlysniper]

Is there a thread that has information/a guide on what to use (socket, ball bearing) and how to press the baffles? I haven't been able to find that by searching. Ideally I need a step by step guide with links to which sockets and ball bearings work best with the dorman 555-104 freeze plugs that fit the d cell size tube.

I see you found the other tread. Others have said the Dorman 555-104 plugs have changed? Napa part 3813179 (which is a SEP 3813179) is what I used, $.69ea. Test fit yours in the jig and tube before you form them.

Are you using the maglite tube, the custom D cell size tube that SDTA offers, or the apogee tube?

On another forum someone said this:

Sealed Power SEP 381-3179 for D tube 1.350
Sealed Power SEP 381-3016 for C tube 1.000
Sealed Power SEP 381-3080 for 1.375 Custom D tube

$.69 at Napa

[HK Man]

This is directed towards the aluminum end caps which has 1/2" material on outside of tube.

Would mill bits and sliding vice work on a drill press to take the external portion down from 1/2" to 1/8"?

I would use a freeze plug butted up flush against barrel end cap to protect internal aluminum from blast.

How's this for a blast baffle before first formed freeze plug? http://www.cvproducts.com/ProdDet.aspx?PN=XRE526-LTW

Anyone used these for baffles? More expensive than freeze plugs, but maybe better quality/longer life?

[cpy911]

Wanted to post a warning based on my analysis of these end caps....

Measure the ID distance of the threaded portion of your Maglite. You should get 1.375"

The standard Maglite has additional material machined out before threading, which opens the threaded ID to 1.375" (at least on my Maglite).

Now, running the numbers: Tube OD is 1.5"-1.375" = .125"/2 sides = .0625" thick at the threaded portion. Now if you are running 20 TPI threads they cut .027" deep and you end up with .0625" - .027" = .0356" of wall thickness in the threaded portion. It is best to have .050" or more.

These walls are too thin and will eventually fail if the threading was done with a sharp root. Any little micro-crack that is in the material at that .0356" thin wall will propagate due to the heat cycles and things will break. When and in whose lifetime they might fail, who knows?

I personally think that the Maglite threading is too course and too deep and thanks to the little step they put in there of .0125" it only makes matters worse. Not the best application here for suppressors, but probably OK if you are not going crazy shooting Magnum sized stuff. Probably will hold up to subsonic rounds for a long, long time. It would not be my first choice however.

Enjoy and don't get hurt!

[BlwnGazkit]

I'm using one of the stainless tubes and was planning to turn the OD down to 1.51" giving me a 0.45" wall at the threads.

Think that's safe enough for .308 & .223 use? I can go to 1.52" OD but would rather save the weight if it's OK.

[cpy911]

Sorry, mis-measured, the Maglite body is running right at 1.55"

IF the Apogee or SD tac tubes are indeed at 1.55" then the standard 20 TPI maglite threading is OK.

Wanted to post a warning based on my analysis of these end caps....

Measure the ID distance of the threaded portion of your Maglite. You should get 1.375"

The standard Maglite has additional material machined out before threading, which opens the threaded ID to 1.375" (at least on my Maglite).

Now, running the numbers: Tube OD is 1.5"-1.375" = .125"/2 sides = .0625" thick at the threaded portion. Now if you are running 20 TPI threads they cut .027" deep and you end up with .0625" - .027" = .0356" of wall thickness in the threaded portion. It is best to have .050" or more.

These walls are too thin and will eventually fail if the threading was done with a sharp root. Any little micro-crack that is in the material at that .0356" thin wall will propagate due to the heat cycles and things will break. When and in whose lifetime they might fail, who knows?

I personally think that the Maglite threading is too course and too deep and thanks to the little step they put in there of .0125" it only makes matters worse. Not the best application here for suppressors, but probably OK if you are not going crazy shooting Magnum sized stuff. Probably will hold up to subsonic rounds for a long, long time. It would not be my first choice however.

Enjoy and don't get hurt!

[ghostdog662]

I don't trust anyone that wears lime green jeans.