Form 1 Baffle Criticism?

[Historian]

Super!!

Looking forward to your sculpture.


Best.

[BlwnGazkit]

Here we go.


Assembled can:


The core is stainless, I've forgotten if it's 304 or 316. The outer tube is 0.070" gr9 Titanium, it's much thicker than needed but minimized the machining required.

Core:


Mostly wire EDM was used to make this shape, the threading & detailing was done on a manual lathe and CNC mill.

Rear view:


The internal threads are a bastard 12tpi ACME I made to match some QD brakes I've made.

Front:


The pattern cut in here was to remove weight while the holes are for a pin wrench. In hindsight, the pin wrench isn't as useful as I thought. I should have made a way to lock the tube from rotating on the core and skipped the pin wrench feature. As it is, I'll be adding a key or alignment pin to the core and broaching a keyway into the tube to accomplish this.

Seems I didn't take a full photo of the brake, but here's part of it:

[mr fixit]

Is it just me? I dont see any pics

[BlwnGazkit]

Hrm...

They're showing up for me. What are you seeing?

[T-Rex]

It was nice to see the concept go from paper to material. Pics are definitely up

I should have made a way to lock the tube from rotating on the core and skipped the pin wrench feature. As it is, I'll be adding a key or alignment pin to the core and broaching a keyway into the tube to accomplish this.

You could put your nut and tube in the milling machine and profile them to look almost like this



You wouldn't need more than .06" and that could be faced off the end of the core.

The business end is very aggressive looking.
Just don't loose your car keys in there

[BlwnGazkit]

It was nice to see the concept go from paper to material. Pics are definitely up

I should have made a way to lock the tube from rotating on the core and skipped the pin wrench feature. As it is, I'll be adding a key or alignment pin to the core and broaching a keyway into the tube to accomplish this.

You could put your nut and tube in the milling machine and profile them to look almost like this



You wouldn't need more than .06" and that could be faced off the end of the core.

The business end is very aggressive looking.
Just don't loose your car keys in there

Thanks for the idea!

I that would've worked perfectly if I'd thought to make the nut a LH thread. Oops.

The main issue I have, is tightening the suppressor onto the rifle. When I grip the tube and twist, the tube will grab the nut and since it's RH threaded the nut begins to unscrew from the core exacerbating the problem.

I need some way to keep the tube from trying to unscrew the nut. The simplest method I can imagine, is to lock the tube to the core. That's where the idea for a pin or a key like a woodruff key came from.

[BlwnGazkit]

I suppose I could reverse your suggestion and make the changes to the front end of the tube/core...

It's going to require some thought for me since I don't do this stuff very often!

[T-Rex]

I suppose I could reverse your suggestion and make the changes to the front end of the tube/core...

Yes, exactly.

What is the thickness of the flat at the end of the core?
Doesn't look to be .1", or so. Should be plenty to get a castle nut profile.

Could you sacrifice a 1/16" from the muzzle attachment end?
It looks like you index on the angled shoulder and have plenty of meat to spare.

[mr fixit]

All I see where there should be a photo is the word "image".

Must be because I'm at work or something.

[BlwnGazkit]

I suppose I could reverse your suggestion and make the changes to the front end of the tube/core...

Yes, exactly.

What is the thickness of the flat at the end of the core?
Doesn't look to be .1", or so. Should be plenty to get a castle nut profile.

Could you sacrifice a 1/16" from the muzzle attachment end?
It looks like you index on the angled shoulder and have plenty of meat to spare.

The flat at the front is 0.10" thick so I can potentially modify that, I'll probably have to extend the threads for the nut further on the core.

You're correct that the core indexes on the angled shoulder, plus I put a ~.1" overhang on the back end. I can't remember why I have the overhang, I think it may have been to hide the muzzle brake; either way it's a cosmetic feature.


I take it you think the key/keyway is a bad idea?

[T-Rex]

You can either extend the threads or just trim the first thread off the nut.

I think it might look a bit cooler with 4, or so, tabs that fit together.
Plus, a key belongs on a shaft and is another thing to lose.

[Historian]

Here we go.


Assembled can:


The core is stainless, I've forgotten if it's 304 or 316. The outer tube is 0.070" gr9 Titanium, it's much thicker than needed but minimized the machining required.

Core:


Mostly wire EDM was used to make this shape, the threading & detailing was done on a manual lathe and CNC mill.

Rear view:


The internal threads are a bastard 12tpi ACME I made to match some QD brakes I've made.

Front:


The pattern cut in here was to remove weight while the holes are for a pin wrench. In hindsight, the pin wrench isn't as useful as I thought. I should have made a way to lock the tube from rotating on the core and skipped the pin wrench feature. As it is, I'll be adding a key or alignment pin to the core and broaching a keyway into the tube to accomplish this.

Seems I didn't take a full photo of the brake, but here's part of it:

Masterful, Sir, masterful! Thank your showing the compelling architecture
of you monocore. A visual treat.

Best.

[whiterussian1974]

How did you determine the placement and angles of your baffles? Was there a specific Gas Law Theory or Fluid Mechanics scheme that guided you?

Looks great and great use of space/low weight/differing volume compartments w angles that should deflect gas stream well.

Why didn't you scallop and texture the baffle faces? I'm not sure if they would even help, since your angled compartments probably do the same job.

Just curious.

[Enfield577]

Great job, thanks for showing, now you must tell us how well does it work ?

[whiterussian1974]

Finally finished my core & can.
As for performance? I'm extremely pleased!
Compared to a Liberty Mystic X, it's on-par or just a touch louder according to several observers and the owner of the Liberty! The general consensus was the tone is different between the 2, but a volume difference is too difficult to claim.

Enfield, I missed this performance eval during my 1st read through also.

BlwnGazkit, your 1st idea reminded me of the Gemtech G-series. Claws and Talon capturing, deflecting, and adding turbulent flow to the stream.

Your final product is probably even better though. Added retention and deflection. The main benefit of your 1st might be lowered weight. I'm not sure of the savings. Probably not much.

I just wish that you had added ridges and bumps to you baffle faces. R Silvers uses them in many of his cans. Car Mnfrs also use bumps to break up road and cabin noise. Fish and aircraft also use scaled dentation, but these actually reduce friction by limiting surface contact. Angled differently they could increase turbulence and create suction behind the projections.

Just some thoughts.

[fastfire]

I like it.
Does it have a first round pop?

[BlwnGazkit]

Enfield, I missed this performance eval during my 1st read through also.

BlwnGazkit, your 1st idea reminded me of the Gemtech G-series. Claws and Talon capturing, deflecting, and adding turbulent flow to the stream.

Your final product is probably even better though. Added retention and deflection. The main benefit of your 1st might be lowered weight. I'm not sure of the savings. Probably not much.

I just wish that you had added ridges and bumps to you baffle faces. R Silvers uses them in many of his cans. Car Mnfrs also use bumps to break up road and cabin noise. Fish and aircraft also use scaled dentation, but these actually reduce friction by limiting surface contact. Angled differently they could increase turbulence and create suction behind the projections.

Just some thoughts.

I didn't think about the ridges or bumps at the time. When I get enough spare cash to supplement my personal lathe with a personal mill, I may try another monocore and incorporate those ideas. As is, even if I earn some more favors on machine time, I don't think we're allowed to borrow machines any longer according to the ATF.

I'm pretty impressed so far; total weight is 17.2oz not including the mount.

[BlwnGazkit]

I like it.
Does it have a first round pop?

It depends...

If you're in an open field and shooting, I don't notice any FRP. However, when I was shooting at a different location on a much colder & drier day, the 1st shot WAS a tiny bit louder than the 2nd.

I wouldn't say it's significant, but it was enough to make me wonder if that was the FRP.

[Donut]

I didn't think about the ridges or bumps at the time. When I get enough spare cash to supplement my personal lathe with a personal mill, I may try another monocore and incorporate those ideas. As is, even if I earn some more favors on machine time, I don't think we're allowed to borrow machines any longer according to the ATF.

I'm pretty impressed so far; total weight is 17.2oz not including the mount.

No clue how current this is, but it's active on ATF's site so...

https://www.atf.gov/files/publications/ ... pter-6.pdf

Section 6.4 Approval of Form 1, paragraph three reads, in part:

If the applicant on the Form 1 lacks the skill, ability, and/or equipment to manufacture the NFA firearm,
the applicant, after receipt of the approved Form 1, can have the firearm created or modified at a
premises other than shown on the approved Form 1 as long as the creation or modification was done
under the direct oversight of the applicant, thus having the applicant retain custody and control of the
firearm.

FWIW