stainless 223 Build

yamaha17 · Post by **yamaha17** » Tue Nov 18, 2014 3:42 pm

I finally finished up my stainless 223 form 1 build this past week. Built entirely out of 303 stainless. It weighs about 1.7 lbs, so yea I know its a bit heavy and overkill, but it works well. The past weekend I ran it on my 16" ar15, as well as my 7.5" SBR and both were hearing safe. Im extremely happy with the build. I will post a few photos from the build below. I will post more once i get them uploaded.

sickasssig · Post by **sickasssig** » Tue Nov 18, 2014 5:07 pm

Very nice build keep up the great work and let us here it pls

yamaha17 · Post by **yamaha17** » Tue Nov 18, 2014 5:09 pm

sickasssig wrote:Very nice build keep up the great work and let us here it pls

Thanks, yea I'm hoping next weekend I will get some video.

silence_is_yellowish · Mon Dec 01, 2014 10:49 pm

Wow, that's purdy! One question, though... How was welding the 303? I've heard it's considered un-weldable.

cpy911 · Post by **cpy911** » Mon Dec 01, 2014 11:54 pm

Care to share some specs?

OAL
Baffle system
OD/ID
Blast chamber size
Aperature

Thanks.

Ws7z · Post by **Ws7z** » Wed Dec 03, 2014 4:37 pm

What wall thickness was used for the tube? What thickness as used for the spacers between the baffles?

T-Rex · Post by **T-Rex** » Wed Dec 03, 2014 5:39 pm

silence_is_yellowish wrote:Wow, that's purdy! One question, though... How was welding the 303? I've heard it's considered un-weldable.

Even to those experienced with welding SS, 303 can be tricky, but definitely not unweldable.
Use 308l rod with just enough amperage to get it done.
Add a bit more filler than you're used to and keep your arc tight.
Make sure to taper off or you will surely crater.

I would weld 303 if it needed to be machined first rather than have to machine 316.

yamaha17 · Post by **yamaha17** » Fri Dec 12, 2014 9:10 pm

The 303 ss actually welded up pretty nice. I had no issues. Proper prep work helps out a lot. I will get some action videos up soon guys, I promise, I've just been super busy.

yamaha17 · Post by **yamaha17** » Fri Dec 12, 2014 9:19 pm

threaded on my 16"......

T-Rex · Post by **T-Rex** » Fri Dec 12, 2014 9:53 pm

I don't know if you purposely made the edges out of focus but that pic looks pretty badass.

That muzzle device is quite intimidating.

Nice

yamaha17 · Post by **yamaha17** » Sat Dec 13, 2014 8:39 am

T-Rex wrote:I don't know if you purposely made the edges out of focus but that pic looks pretty badass.

That muzzle device is quite intimidating.

Nice

Thanks. Yea it was a photo filter i have on my phone. I thought it gave it a nice effect. oh and yea its one intimidating looking muzzle device!

yamaha17 · Post by **yamaha17** » Wed Jan 21, 2015 9:37 am

yamaha17 · Post by **yamaha17** » Wed Jan 21, 2015 10:03 am

So since this can does get pretty hot, I got a griffon industries suppressor cover. I will give it a try this weekend, and get some video for you guys.....

greenhornet-1 · Post by **greenhornet-1** » Thu Jan 22, 2015 12:19 am

Very nice! Can't wait for the video!

Dlob · Post by **Dlob** » Fri Jan 30, 2015 7:58 pm

Regarding the welding of 303 - I'm a metallurgical engineer with previous experience in the aerospace industry. We were usually banned from using 303 in anything because of a) bad welds and b) bad corrosion resistance.

The way 303 is made into 303 is by taking something similar to 304 and then adding a pretty significant amount of sulfur to it. The sulfur doesn't really dissolve in the steel matrix, it's present as little "stringers" or "plates" in the metal. The reason that 303 machines so much better than 304 or similar is that as the cutting tool is cutting through the metal, it flakes off at those sulfur stringers. Makes it a ton easier to machine but a) the sulfur acts as corrosion initiation sites and b) it can crack welds.
(You'll note the OP said "just enough current to get it done" - this is going to prevent cracking by using the least heat possible. Good call!)

All told, when I get around to my own Form 1 builds I'm not planning on using 303, but that's because I'm am admittedly a stickler/OCD about anything corrosion related. I fully expect 303 to be just fine, especially given the quality welds I see in the pictures. Just don't be surprised if you really get it hot on a humid day and you start seeing touches of red surface corrosion...especially with that cover on it to hold in moisture.

Samson104 · Post by **Samson104** » Fri Jan 30, 2015 11:40 pm

Why not use 316 L , better corrosion resistance and weldability , doesn't machine ass easily as 303 but definitely better everywhere else

Dlob · Post by **Dlob** » Sat Jan 31, 2015 12:48 am

Samson104 wrote:Why not use 316 L , better corrosion resistance and weldability , doesn't machine ass easily as 303 but definitely better everywhere else

It'd be my pick for the majority of things, but it is remarkable how much better 303 machines (I can't fault Yamaha17 there).

I'm looking right now at putting some designs together for when I can get a machine shop started, and the materials I'd picked were a 316L for the blast chamber and all of the baffles from #2 back, 6061-T6 tube, and a Nitronic 60 blast baffle (something I want to try, it's very wear/cavitation resistant and has excellent high temp properties...wondering if it'd have better erosion properties than 316L).

Sorry for the threadjack Yamaha...

Rich V · Post by **Rich V** » Sat Jan 31, 2015 6:37 am

Instead of welding I have used high temp silver brazing to attach the front and rear caps. This avoids much of the distortion associated with welding and provides a very strong joint when the solder overlap is ~4x the thickness of the joint.

The only drawback is a temperature ceiling of ~900F so no getting the can red hot at the solder joints. Since the ends of a can, where the solder joints are, are cooler than the center of the tube you can still do mag dumps with no worries of melting the silver solder (~1100F).

Realistically how many people do full auto dumps thru their cans until the ends are glowing?

Silver brazing is very easy to do with a propane or MAPP torch. Use the right flux for stainless steel and a good 50% silver alloy for the solder and it is as easy as sweating a copper water pipe.

One limitation on silver brazing, you can't braze titanium. Steel and SS work great.

yamaha17 · Post by **yamaha17** » Fri Feb 06, 2015 9:08 pm

Yea, I chose the 303 because of the easy machining capability of the material. I am not a professional machinist in any way. This was my first silencer build, and took it as a great learning experience. Its a bit heavy, but i learned a lot! The next one will be even better, and lighter!

yamaha17 · Post by **yamaha17** » Fri Feb 06, 2015 9:10 pm

Dlob wrote:
Samson104 wrote:Why not use 316 L , better corrosion resistance and weldability , doesn't machine ass easily as 303 but definitely better everywhere else
It'd be my pick for the majority of things, but it is remarkable how much better 303 machines (I can't fault Yamaha17 there).

I'm looking right now at putting some designs together for when I can get a machine shop started, and the materials I'd picked were a 316L for the blast chamber and all of the baffles from #2 back, 6061-T6 tube, and a Nitronic 60 blast baffle (something I want to try, it's very wear/cavitation resistant and has excellent high temp properties...wondering if it'd have better erosion properties than 316L).

Sorry for the threadjack Yamaha...

No worries Dlob, thats why were all on here buddy.....

stainless 223 Build

stainless 223 Build

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