I'm making a integral silencer for a 10/22 for my granddaughter. It will start out with a tapered SS barrel cut down to 10" with a one inch .020" 304 SS tube blind pinned to the back of the barrel to avoid the SBR tax. The baffle stack will be welded together along with the front end cap and threaded muzzle adapter. The baffle stack will be slightly undersized to aid in removal with the front end cap a snug fit. Removing the stack is simply a matter of unscrewing from the muzzle. Comments?
Ranb
10/22 can design
10/22 can design
SilencerTalk was a place I could disccuss making registered silencers without being told I was a criminal. That is no longer true. http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=132&t=99273
- whiterussian1974
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Re: 10/22 can design
This is a 30 or more yr old design. Please at least mag-na-port some slits 2" from the chamber to bleed off pressure and control velocity.
Otherwise, not much different than the Paladin Press PVC designs from the early 1980s.
Mechanically a pretty solid design. Just not very efficient. Would really benefit from some of the cone notches, Ks, etc that other 22 designs on this Forum use.
The Bell-shaped geometry is solid and incorporates many excellent features. Just needs porting and some asymetrical cross-mouth jets. Would substantially increase dwell time and swirl.
Otherwise, not much different than the Paladin Press PVC designs from the early 1980s.
Mechanically a pretty solid design. Just not very efficient. Would really benefit from some of the cone notches, Ks, etc that other 22 designs on this Forum use.
The Bell-shaped geometry is solid and incorporates many excellent features. Just needs porting and some asymetrical cross-mouth jets. Would substantially increase dwell time and swirl.
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The Death of One is a Tragedy, a million only a statistic.-Stalin
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Re: 10/22 can design
I would like to suggest that you leave the barrel at 16" or longer and thread it. Build a 6" or longer thread mount suppressor using K baffles and give yourself the option to use it on other 22 LR firearms. A K baffle design with subsonic ammo is silly quiet, and with supersonic ammo it is certainly hearing safe.
Re: 10/22 can design
I already have a thread on 22lr can with a blast cone and K's. I want to keep the overall length short for my granddaughter.
The K's shown are what I normally use (ports are not shown). I'm not a fan of porting a barrel to make the ammo slower. Why use crappy cheap high velocity ammo that groups 3 inches at 100 yards when I can use good quality standard velocity ammo that has groups half the size?
Randy
The K's shown are what I normally use (ports are not shown). I'm not a fan of porting a barrel to make the ammo slower. Why use crappy cheap high velocity ammo that groups 3 inches at 100 yards when I can use good quality standard velocity ammo that has groups half the size?
Randy
SilencerTalk was a place I could disccuss making registered silencers without being told I was a criminal. That is no longer true. http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=132&t=99273
Re: 10/22 can design
Given that additional info, it looks like you have what is essentially an 8" K can with the tube permanently mounted on a 10" barrel. Performance should be very good with standard velocity ammo.ranb wrote:I already have a thread on 22lr can with a blast cone and K's. I want to keep the overall length short for my granddaughter.
The K's shown are what I normally use (ports are not shown). I'm not a fan of porting a barrel to make the ammo slower. Why use crappy cheap high velocity ammo that groups 3 inches at 100 yards when I can use good quality standard velocity ammo that has groups half the size?
Randy
Instead of welding the stack together, consider using tubing spacers between the K's to reduce the residue getting on the tube. That should make disassembly and cleaning easier.
Your granddaughter is very lucky to have you in her life, I'm sure she will be pleased.
Re: 10/22 can design
The baffle design is secondary to how the stack is attached to the muzzle. If I use spacers they will be used along with cone baffles. I want a combined barrel/silencer length of 16" and the ability to take it apart for cleaning. The barrel crown and tube would be cleaned every 500 rounds, the welded baffle stack will be chemically cleaned every 5000 rounds or so. If needed the unit can be dipped while attached to the barrel to ease the disassembly.
Randy
Randy
SilencerTalk was a place I could disccuss making registered silencers without being told I was a criminal. That is no longer true. http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=132&t=99273
- Capt. Link.
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Re: 10/22 can design
You could just pin the tube to the end of the barrel.That would save a little weight and still work well with the baffle stack.Wow what a grandpa she is lucky indeed.ranb wrote:I'm making a integral silencer for a 10/22 for my granddaughter. It will start out with a tapered SS barrel cut down to 10" with a one inch .020" 304 SS tube blind pinned to the back of the barrel to avoid the SBR tax. The baffle stack will be welded together along with the front end cap and threaded muzzle adapter. The baffle stack will be slightly undersized to aid in removal with the front end cap a snug fit. Removing the stack is simply a matter of unscrewing from the muzzle. Comments?
Ranb
The only reason after 243 years the government now wants to disarm you is they intend to do something you would shoot them for!
http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=79895
http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=79895
Re: 10/22 can design
1" .020" thick 304 SS tubing is about 0.28 ounces per inch; 4.2 oz for a 15 inch tube or 1.7 oz for a six inch tube. I had considered buying a shrouded barrel made to contain a silencer, making and pinning my own shroud or going full length. Containing a complete silencer in a shroud is a waste of weight, but then a full length tube also adds wasted weight as the volume behind the muzzle does very little for suppression.
Right now I'm going full length as I think it will look nicer. I'll use a cut down and tapered match grade (not the most expensive ones) stainless barrel. I want a tapered barrel to save weight.
I cut down the stock and modified the pistol grip area to allow short fingers to comfortably pull the trigger.
I've got several years before she can shoot it, so time is on my side. I'm going to make my daughter a trustee and my granddaughter the beneficiary.
Ranb
Right now I'm going full length as I think it will look nicer. I'll use a cut down and tapered match grade (not the most expensive ones) stainless barrel. I want a tapered barrel to save weight.
I cut down the stock and modified the pistol grip area to allow short fingers to comfortably pull the trigger.
I've got several years before she can shoot it, so time is on my side. I'm going to make my daughter a trustee and my granddaughter the beneficiary.
Ranb
SilencerTalk was a place I could disccuss making registered silencers without being told I was a criminal. That is no longer true. http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=132&t=99273
Re: 10/22 can design
I used a thicker tube so I could have individual baffles and a threaded cap, but I understand the appeal of your way too.
I'm not a fan of ports where they can't be cleaned either so I ended up using a 5.5" barrel inside of a 16" tube and filled the rest with baffles. Bulk ammo is subsonic that way
I'm not a fan of ports where they can't be cleaned either so I ended up using a 5.5" barrel inside of a 16" tube and filled the rest with baffles. Bulk ammo is subsonic that way
Re: 10/22 can design
A problem I see is the tube diameter is too large. A standard 10/22 tapered barrel is a little less than .900 at the front of the notch, your tube ID is .960 so there's going to be a decent gap there. You'll need to extend the top half of the tube back enough so it butts up against the receiver or it will look odd. Pic from my build to illustrate:
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Re: 10/22 can design
If you zoom in on my drawing you can see that there is an end cap between the tube and barrel to fill the gap.
Randy
Randy
SilencerTalk was a place I could disccuss making registered silencers without being told I was a criminal. That is no longer true. http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=132&t=99273