F1 Freeze plugs or cut on a lathe SS baffles.

[armalite_ar50]

OK,
F1 was approved and sent back last June For a 30 cal can.
I have the SS seamless tube 2 in OD 1 7/8 ID. Should I just use freeze plugs or cut baffles out of 303 Stainless 1 7/8 round stock.

Pro's & Cons on both.
I see most use freeze plugs because they don't have a lathe.
any other benefit? like life span of baffles total weight of can or other suh stuff I need to know?
This wll be my 1st F1 can build. I have a few other factory cans.

Only asking as it seems to be the same price either way. ( about 50 bux after shipping for either the round stock or plugs).
I have a Atlas metal Lathe.
So should I do the 28 1/2 degree cuts on the lathe or go with the freezeplugs.

This will be a threaded take apart can.

Rich

[CMV]

First off 2" OD is very large for a .30 cal. You may want to throw up a sketch of what you're planning to do for input before buying any more material.

303 is nice to work with but leaves a lot to be desired in the 'less' part of stainless. Consider 416 for nearly as easy machining, better surface finish, & better corrosion resistance. I've used both but haven't used 303 since CPT Link turned me on to 416. 303 is still much better than CRS or chrome moly for corrosion resistance.

My opinion (and no offense to the myriad of freeze plug builders we seem to have nowadays) you will have much better final results with something you make from barstock than something you buy off the shelf to utilize as a silencer baffle. It is my opinion because I haven't made a FP can nor have I ever done a side-by-side comparison with one I machined vs one made from FPs.

From looking at what they do to form a FP, it looks like a much simpler process to just cut a 60° cone on a lathe. It's a very simple process that a novice can master in an afternoon. I *think* (again, never built one from FP) that most FP builders press fit the FP into the tube. That would negate any benefit to a take-apart design.

[T-Rex]

I agree with CMV.

If you have the machinery, I'd do 60* cones. Plenty of good designs posted here.

303 might be fine for subsequent baffles, but not sure about the blast.

[sub-sonic]

if you have the lathe then turn the baffles. you will have better control over tolerances for your take apart can. you can also make a different style of baffle with the lathe. the freeze plug build is great for builders who dont have a lathe. in the time it takes to turn up one M baffle on the lathe I can form 10+ freeze plugs. but with a lathe you have better material choices and better control over the shape and fit.

[armalite_ar50]

Was going to make the baffles on this old Atlas of mine that I use for reloading the RV-85 ( on a F1 as a DD)
along with other stuff the lathe & I make.
I am by far no pro with the lathe but I can turn cones with it. I do so for BP lift charges for the RV-85

I know I get one shot to make this thing so I figured I'd ask a few questions before I chucked up and went to town.

My goal is to have it done by this spring using Feb. and March to get it done since I can't do to much outside.
Once the weather gets nicer I'll be back outside working with liquid and red metals, with no time for indoor work.

Drawings??? I was just going to drill center with the tail stock. Make sure it was concentric to the bore, slice, the cones then part and finish. With my lamp post tool holder it's pretty much a given to do all the same cuts at once and not move the tool until next setup.

So you think 2 inches is to large then? I didn't even think of 416 SS. Just saw that 303 was the same price as freeze plugs.
I'll have to source out a price on 416 SS.

I'll be making it on this.


Being the size and age of my lathe it's gonna take some time to turn out SS anyways whether it's 1 1/2 or 2 inches.
It'll do it so long as I take my time though. Lathe has pretty much every tool I need from the tail stock to a pair of steady rests. among a pile of other stuff.

Rich

[T-Rex]

That TH42 will spit out SS baffles in no time.
I use a 618, even smaller than yours, and turn SS pieces all the time.
Use a live center and that rest whenever possible.
You should be able to do a baffle in under an hour, even slowly.
Get a larger OD bar and use as a jig so you don't need to keep changing stock from the chuck and everything stays centered.

[armalite_ar50]

OK so 1 1/2 OD 1/38 ID I picked up. and I just places a order on the 416 SS round stock 1 3/8 (1.375) Dia.
I think the hardest part will be getting everything centered once I swap out the 3 jaw for the 4 jaw along with the steady rest.

So far 200 in the stamp and 56.00 bux in material shipped.
26 bux 12 inches of 416 round stock
30 bux 12 inches seemless SS tube
freeze plugs I was looking at would have been 52.00 plus the 30 for the tube.

Now I have 10 inches on the F1 for OAL the sandstorm my friend has is 7.8 ( from the gemtech site)
I've only shot that with supers out of a remmy 700 It was very nice.

I know I can go shorter what's a good OAL for the firearms listed below.
I'm thinking 8 inches OAL.

I'll be using a 2001 remmy 700 PSS
300 blackout (semi supers) I have the SWR octane hd II for the 300 subs.

And yes I'll be spending the next few days looking at homebrew 30 cal cans for blast chamber/baffle ideas and such.
I'm gonna go with either 56 or 60 degree cones.

Threading is going to SUCK since my lathe is all manual gear changes. but I have the owners manual so that helps.

Rich

[samson7x]

A bit of a thread jack here, and I'll remove if the OP wants, but I have considered purchasing a lathe for some F1 builds. I have zero machining experience, but enjoy tinkering with stuff. How do you all feel about starting with a mini lathe? Specifically, I found this: http://www.harborfreight.com/7-inch-x-1 ... 93799.html

I know, harbor freight isn't top notch, but I hate to invest several thousand on a decent lathe and end up not liking it or sucking at it, etc.

It would be cool to make a few 60 degree cones on my own and maybe thread a barrel or two.

[Bendersquint]

A bit of a thread jack here, and I'll remove if the OP wants, but I have considered purchasing a lathe for some F1 builds. I have zero machining experience, but enjoy tinkering with stuff. How do you all feel about starting with a mini lathe? Specifically, I found this: http://www.harborfreight.com/7-inch-x-1 ... 93799.html

I know, harbor freight isn't top notch, but I hate to invest several thousand on a decent lathe and end up not liking it or sucking at it, etc.

It would be cool to make a few 60 degree cones on my own and maybe thread a barrel or two.

I think you would be wasting your money really on one of those.

I can't remember the spindle bore on that but you won't be threading many barrels with it.

I would befriend someone with a lathe and play...if its your thing you will know pretty quick, then spend the money and get a decent lathe that will fit your needs.

.02

[L1A1Rocker]

OK so 1 1/2 OD 1/38 ID I picked up. and I just places a order on the 416 SS round stock 1 3/8 (1.375) Dia.
I think the hardest part will be getting everything centered once I swap out the 3 jaw for the 4 jaw along with the steady rest.

So far 200 in the stamp and 56.00 bux in material shipped.
26 bux 12 inches of 416 round stock
30 bux 12 inches seemless SS tube
freeze plugs I was looking at would have been 52.00 plus the 30 for the tube.

Now I have 10 inches on the F1 for OAL the sandstorm my friend has is 7.8 ( from the gemtech site)
I've only shot that with supers out of a remmy 700 It was very nice.

I know I can go shorter what's a good OAL for the firearms listed below.
I'm thinking 8 inches OAL.

I'll be using a 2001 remmy 700 PSS
300 blackout (semi supers) I have the SWR octane hd II for the 300 subs.

And yes I'll be spending the next few days looking at homebrew 30 cal cans for blast chamber/baffle ideas and such.
I'm gonna go with either 56 or 60 degree cones.

Threading is going to SUCK since my lathe is all manual gear changes. but I have the owners manual so that helps.

Rich

IMO you'd be much better off getting some used American Iron in decent condition. Don't buy from a refurb shop where you only get the lathe. Buy from an individual that will have lots of accessories, attachments, and tooling. Those extras are worth a fortune!

[armalite_ar50]

Hey guys that Atlas in the pic is mine no need for me to buy another lathe.

Paid 1000.00 for it back in 2010 I'm a member of machinistweb.com (lots of forums really)
When I bought it everyone there pretty much agreed that I either got the tooling or the lathe for free.
as it came with so much stuff.

I use it for all kinds of stuff from RC parts to well, it's a lathe, so anything.

No I won't be buying a HF mini lathe ( and neither should you) we have a HF store here and I've looked at those in person. I wouldn't turn out a soda bottle top on one of those POS's. and they are 500 bux with nothing, compare that to what I bought.
Here is what my Atlas looked like when I 1st got it home and set it up.



There where three other beer case boxes of tooling and stock that are not in the pix when I took that pic.
Notice it wasn't even mounted down in that pic.

Rich

[armalite_ar50]

A bit of a thread jack here, and I'll remove if the OP wants, but I have considered purchasing a lathe for some F1 builds. I have zero machining experience, but enjoy tinkering with stuff. How do you all feel about starting with a mini lathe? Specifically, I found this: http://www.harborfreight.com/7-inch-x-1 ... 93799.html

I know, harbor freight isn't top notch, but I hate to invest several thousand on a decent lathe and end up not liking it or sucking at it, etc.

It would be cool to make a few 60 degree cones on my own and maybe thread a barrel or two.

Look around craigslist and the machinist forums. I bought my old Atlas with a pile of stuff from a retired machinist that had it posted on castboolits.com He was also a avid reloader like me. And it was local. Check all the for sale forums on the gun boards. Ebay,craigslist, the local penny shopper type rags. Make sure it comes with a lot of stuff and see it turn chips before you buy.
And try to get a quick change gear lathe. That is the only thing I don't like about mine. changing gears for different stuff. it really slows production down.

I was going to buy a 3D printer when I bought the lathe. I'm glad I went with the lathe. In a nother year or so when the 3D printers are MUCH better I'll get one but this has been one of the coolest tools I own.

Rich