Titanium 22 monocore Form 1 .. what would you change?

[unknownpro]

I am new to this forum but not new to cutting form 1 suppressors. I have completed my Titanium 22 Suppressor but I am one of these people that cant stop improving on a design.. so what needs to be changed?

here is where I get it ready to do some cutting.





making sure its level in the 4th axis



I have already completed 50% on the first side with the 1/4 end mill with a .005 offset, now going over it again with a 1/8 endmill to do the clean up pass.



the core is cut, just needs some cleanup and then the end needs to be cut down..



the core weighing in at 4.3oz with the tail still on it..



5 oz with the core and tube. It should be slightly less with these two pieces once its engraved and the core is sanded down.. shooting for 6oz overall with end cap.



I have finished the end cap and it weighs in at .9 of an oz. its probably thicker than what is needed, but it was a new design and I can always change the drawings and correct it later.



the complete but dirty suppressor comes to 6.3oz in total weight.

[unknownpro]

here are a few videos you can watch them on the youtube for better quality

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DYzyh4jU1ZQ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uzp_QIzhyjc

[Samson104]

What does the internals of the SS can look like in comparison to the titanium

[T-Rex]

Very nice.

Did you come to your design based on previous Form 1's?

Your use of 2 chambers, with baffles inside of each, is what I am referring to.

[unknownpro]

What does the internals of the SS can look like in comparison to the titanium

The internal design of the Stainless is pretty much the same except I made a few angle changes and then took out a pocket. I also cut the titanium thinner and used the 1/8 endmill after the 1/4. this shaved off even more in the corners.

[unknownpro]

Very nice.

Did you come to your design based on previous Form 1's?

Your use of 2 chambers, with baffles inside of each, is what I am referring to.

the titanium design is based off my stainless design.. I created the stainless just out of thin air.. I didn't copy anything I had seen just spend a few weeks creating pockets until I finally for one I liked then changed the angles and cut the core.

[gunny50]

What does the internals of the SS can look like in comparison to the titanium

The internal design of the Stainless is pretty much the same except I made a few angle changes and then took out a pocket. I also cut the titanium thinner and used the 1/8 endmill after the 1/4. this shaved off even more in the corners.

First congratulations on your machining and nicely made silencers.

You could gain some volume by having the locking-nut for holding the tube in place on the same side as the side where your barrel threads are.
So make a larger diameter locking ring and have that side in and outside threaded.
You can than machine the endcap side a lot thinner and gain volume there, space that out or make another baffle.
I do not know how thick your walls are now and what grade Ti you are using but take a look at some of the commercial cans these are sometimes super thin in Ti.

Also in your current design you keep the baffles connected to the outside (top / Bottom) by partially machining them away from one side, I would have that done in one rib on the left side of the can and the next on the right side.

That way you brak up the flow even more.

Again nice work

Gunny

[unknownpro]

You make some good points. I have already thought about making the locking ring on the barrel side.

So, I internally thread for barrel, then externally thread for lock nut.

That would be right hand internal 1/2x28 and external left hand (whatever I choose) for the lock ring?

The core won't flex now, but it will twist if you put the end cap on and ream it down, so I think removing 1/2 of the wall is a bad idea unless I make the center wall thicker. This will also have to be done after it's completely cut because it would be risky cutting it before everything is complete.

I wouldn't make a end cap, I would just cut some fancy pattern in the end of the core, then leave a lip and turn it down to match the tube. Everything would slide together from one end.

I don't want to make it any longer, I like how short it is, but I would like to make it better. Diameter can stay the same because I'll be making it for a under the rail lvoa clone.

[john.t.little1]

You don't need to do LH threads.

[gunny50]

You can put a small pin in the core at the "endcap" side.

I mentioned endcap but that is just a figure of speech, Exit side or what ever sounds better.
But as mentioned above a pin in the endcap like the pin in the Barrel extension of an AR barrel and a small notch in the tube will make a tube that does not slip around the core.

Both inside and outside can be Right-handed thread. After the pin is in you can grip the tube and it won't slip.

Took a better look at the pictures, what I mentioned was already done bij you. Sorry for the. misunderstanding

Gunny

[unknownpro]

Thanks guys. I'll think all this stuff over when I design my next model. I should have more time now that my 300 monocore blackout is complete. I didn't post it in here because it's not that cool of a build.

[whiterussian1974]

Go ahead and post your 300BLK w pics. If nothing else, we can learn from your experience and you could post what lessons you learned and what you wish that you would have done differently.

[unknownpro]

I spent a little time this week cutting my newer longer titanium build. I have made a few changes to the posted design. I messed up the first pocket, so on the fly I had to make a huge change. It's an error, but I am curious on your thought about the design.

I'll post it up if your interested.

[fastfire]

Yes, post away,please!

[jimmym40a2]

That looks great. Nice job