What should a can weigh ?

[mr fixit]

curious, what is a reasonable weight goal for a SS F1 can? I know they tend to be overweight compared to store bought cans, but is there an average?

I'm getting ready to weld mine up and when i picked up all the pieces in a box i thought it seemed a lil heavy. I'm going to get a scale and weigh all the parts before I assemble and weld. I want to see if I need to find some ways to cut some weight.

[Samson104]

My last one was a little over 18 ounces I think but it was "over built" because it sees some use on a 22-250 and 22BR
here is a link to the build.
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=131592

I think up to 24 ounces shouldn't be uncommon. I have a 338 can that is 10 inch long and 1.75" in diameter that is only 39 ounces

[Scared_of_zombies]

curious, what is a reasonable weight goal for a SS F1 can? I know they tend to be overweight compared to store bought cans, but is there an average?

I'm getting ready to weld mine up and when i picked up all the pieces in a box i thought it seemed a lil heavy. I'm going to get a scale and weigh all the parts before I assemble and weld. I want to see if I need to find some ways to cut some weight.

What would be helpful is maybe some dimensions. A 1"x6" SS can will weigh less than a 1.5"x10" can.

[T-Rex]

What would be helpful is maybe some dimensions. A 1"x6" SS can will weigh less than a 1.5"x10" can.

His build is here , on the first page.

[Bendersquint]

curious, what is a reasonable weight goal for a SS F1 can? I know they tend to be overweight compared to store bought cans, but is there an average?

I'm getting ready to weld mine up and when i picked up all the pieces in a box i thought it seemed a lil heavy. I'm going to get a scale and weigh all the parts before I assemble and weld. I want to see if I need to find some ways to cut some weight.

There is no average as there are no standard design/material/size that is used.

There are so many variable that your question is akin to asking what an average weight of a vehicle is......are we talking a smart car or a HUMMER? Quite a range.

Form1's are heavier than commercial cans often in multiples.

What you SHOULD do is weigh it and see if you are happy with it, if it feels heavier than you care for see what you can do to put it on a diet.

[mr fixit]

[quote="Bendersquint"
There is no average as there are no standard design/material/size that is used.

There are so many variable that your question is akin to asking what an average weight of a vehicle is......are we talking a smart car or a HUMMER? Quite a range.

Form1's are heavier than commercial cans often in multiples.

What you SHOULD do is weigh it and see if you are happy with it, if it feels heavier than you care for see what you can do to put it on a diet.[/quote]

Yeah looking back on my question, I see that what I asked and what I was thinking of are not the same. I guess what I meant was more like this;
Assuming the same overall dimensions (length and dia.) between a factory can and a F1, do F1 cans tend to be heavier by a factor of 1, 1.5, or is there any correlation at all. And I sort of realize there still really isn't an answer to that, too man variables.

I did some research, looks like cans from YHM in SS start around 20 oz and go down. I have heard they are on the heavy side of factory cans.

Maybe a better question is what is the heaviest factory can for say 5.56mm?


And yes Bender, I need to weigh it and see where I stand before welding it up. Just for grins I put all the parts in a gallon zip lock bag, and hung that on the end of my AR barrel. Seemed like a ton of weight out there. Not sure how much weight I can save by cutting 'legs' out of the skirt of the freeze plugs, or if I may have to consider cutting down the number of baffles.

[T-Rex]

Do you have the ability to cut the tube's OD, in areas it does not need to be as thick?

Take some material off the FP skirts, as you mentioned.

Drill holes or mill slots in your spacers to reduce their weight.

Your over-barrel tube could lose some weight, as well.

I understand if you're limited on machines, but just pointing out areas you can cut weight.

[Bendersquint]

Assuming the same overall dimensions (length and dia.) between a factory can and a F1, do F1 cans tend to be heavier by a factor of 1, 1.5, or is there any correlation at all. And I sort of realize there still really isn't an answer to that, too man variables.

Cans have been made from thin titanium to ultra thick actual PIPING, not tubing PIPING. I have seen spacers in Form1 cans everywhere from .02-.18" thick.

There is NO correlation whatesoever.

[mr fixit]

Cans have been made from thin titanium to ultra thick actual PIPING, not tubing PIPING. I have seen spacers in Form1 cans everywhere from .02-.18" thick.

There is NO correlation whatesoever.

WOW

[Bendersquint]

Cans have been made from thin titanium to ultra thick actual PIPING, not tubing PIPING. I have seen spacers in Form1 cans everywhere from .02-.18" thick.

There is NO correlation whatesoever.

WOW

We worked on a can a few years ago that was 1.5" x 8" and a 1"x4" can had more internal volume.

The reason why it was so heavy? "I built it with what I had on hand, if I wanted to spend money on the can I would have bought one."

Can weighed over 5lbs.

[mr fixit]

Do you have the ability to cut the tube's OD, in areas it does not need to be as thick?

Take some material off the FP skirts, as you mentioned.

Drill holes or mill slots in your spacers to reduce their weight.

Your over-barrel tube could lose some weight, as well.

I understand if you're limited on machines, but just pointing out areas you can cut weight.

Spacers are .050 Titanium. Not a lot of savings to be had there. I will wait to get an actual number before doing anything. I had a good accurate scale when I was making bio diesel. I gave it to my brother when I gave him the processor. I'll go get it this week and see where I stand.

Looks like my options are:
1. cut the reflex area shorter
2. cut 'legs' in the skirts of the plugs
3. use less freeze plug baffles

[c5_nc]

Do you have the ability to cut the tube's OD, in areas it does not need to be as thick?

Take some material off the FP skirts, as you mentioned.

Drill holes or mill slots in your spacers to reduce their weight.

Your over-barrel tube could lose some weight, as well.

I understand if you're limited on machines, but just pointing out areas you can cut weight.

Spacers are .050 Titanium. Not a lot of savings to be had there. I will wait to get an actual number before doing anything. I had a good accurate scale when I was making bio diesel. I gave it to my brother when I gave him the processor. I'll go get it this week and see where I stand.

Looks like my options are:
1. cut the reflex area shorter
2. cut 'legs' in the skirts of the plugs
3. use less freeze plug baffles

I did not see an actual length posted, but I was expecting your build to be 32-35oz if you are at 12", but looks like you may be longer than that. Cutting the legs into the freeze plugs will save .7-1.0 oz I think. I have used the Ti spacers down to .028-.040 but would not have save you that much. Shortening the reflex area or using different material on the Tube would yield the largest weight savings.