Savage MKII Integral

[WinMag]

Howdy All,

I've been reading this forum off and on for over two years now, its simply an amazing resource and was incredibly helpful in making my first form 1 can (a matter for a different post once its finished in the next couple weeks.)

Already I have been dreaming of the next form 1 project, and really want to do an integrally suppressed bolt action .22. I know this has been covered before and I have read every post I could find on the subject, but I have a few different questions that I haven't found answers to. I have a 16.5" barrel which I plan on milling holes (starting at 6") and sliding a sleeve over the entire barrel, tightening the sleeve down with a muzzle brake against the receivers shoulder.

First and foremost, my barrel is fluted. Is this a good or "just give up now" kind of thing? Im just really not sure. It seems it could be a good thing, as blast diverted by the baffles will be able to run down the flutes making full use of the volume of the can. On the other hand, I am kind of defeating the purpose of the baffles by letting the gas flow around them. What say you?

Secondly, many users have commented in other threads that simply drilling holes into the barrel wont really provide good sound reduction. I plan on milling the last 10" of barrel, so length is my friend and may overcome the very simple baffle design. So what if, instead of drilling one larger hole through the middle of the barrel, I make two smaller holes on each side of the bore? that would leave me with a "pointed baffle" more closely resembling some of the commercial monocore designs. Ill attach a vector drawing shortly if that's confusing. Or will that many smaller holes leave me with a barrel that looks more like a banana?

The reason I ask is twofold. First, I obviously want the best suppression that is easily machinable. Second, while I do have access to a nice milling machine it is not convenient. I do however have a very heavy duty drill press with a nice vice and a set of $$$ solid carbide drill bits.

I'll add more as I think of it, please post any comments or ideas you may have. Thanks!

[Bendersquint]

What commercial monocore designs uses drilled holes?

You need internal volume, the minute amount of volume you will get from making pockets won't do squat......if it were that easy...well you know the rest.

[king9]

My .22 design I am working on
Is a monocore permanently attached to the barrel with a tube that goes past the core.. similar to a currently available barrel on the market. .... I however am using a 10/22 as the host...

I have seen what you are taking about but have not seen them in action....

Will your idea lower the Db's yes ... but probably not as effective as you could do with just mounting a can on the end....

The fluting is another issue all together
If the baffle was cut matching the fluting this would allow more volume due to the flute allowing more open area in the tube....

I by no means am qualified to give advice ... just thinking out loud

[T-Rex]

I am, also, planning a 22 integral so I'll throw $0.02 into the well.

The ports, just after the chamber, are to bleed the initial gases to keep HV ammo at subsonic velocities. This eliminates the crack and keeps all ammo hush-hush, hopefully.

My plan is pretty much this:
I'd cut that bbl back to 10.25" and turn the OD smaller. Add a shelf and shoulder, near the muzzle, for the over tube. Pin and weld in place so bbl assembly is >16".
Thread bbl and make a thread adapter, or slip fit, to reach tube ID and make the second point.
I'd port just after the chamber (if you so plan o use HV ammo)
Make a 6" cone, K or monocore section.
Add end cap and done.

My advice is to log receiver in with ffl while cutting bbl and finishing. Ppl will give mixed opinions of this, but, if ever legally obligated, you can provide proof there was no SBR situation.

[0101silent]

--

[BCJ]

I did a form 1 integral Savage MKII. I ended up ditching the factory barrel and used a stainless 10/22 barrel instead. I had to file the extra extractor groove and turn down part of the barrel to press fit into the receiver. I used a 5.5" barrel inside the tube (stainless tube that is pin and welded to keep it 16"). The short barrel keeps most bulk pack subsonic without any ports so there is nothing to clog up. I just used simple cone baffles with built in skirts that lock together so they all slide out for cleaning from the muzzle end.

[WinMag]

Thanks for the replies all,

Bender, A hole drilled on each side of the bore would leave a pointed shape in the middle of the bore, similar to the checkmate and other mono's milled core. I wasnt refering to them having drilled cores, just mimicking the shape by drilling.

As far as the other ideas, I have only a 12" lathe, there's no way for me to cut or turn my current barrel on it.

I would need to actually cut the first chamber at a length that would leave most ammo subsonic, so maybe 5" or 4"? Just drilling a gas port style hole wouldnt work because my sleeve fits over the barrel with little clearance, the gas has no where to vent.

Thanks again, Im gonna keep thinking about it.

[Bendersquint]

Thanks for the replies all,

Bender, A hole drilled on each side of the bore would leave a pointed shape in the middle of the bore, similar to the checkmate and other mono's milled core. I wasnt refering to them having drilled cores, just mimicking the shape by drilling.

As far as the other ideas, I have only a 12" lathe, there's no way for me to cut or turn my current barrel on it.

I would need to actually cut the first chamber at a length that would leave most ammo subsonic, so maybe 5" or 4"? Just drilling a gas port style hole wouldnt work because my sleeve fits over the barrel with little clearance, the gas has no where to vent.

Thanks again, Im gonna keep thinking about it.

I guess I can't figure out what you are referring to as I had a checkmate and there is alot more to it than just a hole drilled.

Can you sketch out what you are saying?

[BinaryAndy]

Bender, I think this is more or less what he's talking about. (WinMag, correct me if I've misunderstood.)



Remember you'll need to enlarge the bore hole for the part of the barrel that becomes baffles, so that there's some clearance for the bullet to get through. (That was a lot of B's.) I think it should work fine for a 22, flutes and all. By the way, sounds like you have an FVSR?

I still wouldn't do that on a drill press, the mill is generally a much better way to make non-centered holes through a cylinder. Granted, there are some drill presses that are more rigid than some mills, so if you have a real monster of a drill press that resists side loading well, then go for it.

[BinaryAndy]

On second thought, I would definitely avoid using your expensive carbide drills to do overlapping holes like that. It's a heavily interrupted cut which I don't think solid carbide is going to put up with. A cobalt end mill would be my choice for that cut, and there are very few drill presses that will handle the side loads involved with that very well.

[WinMag]

Andy,

Exactly. Yes FVSR. Thank you for that picture.

And now that you mention it... the drill bit wont handle that well. I do have some TiN endmills, ultimately the off center hole will be the problem. Huh. I wonder if I can get a barrel through Savage to practice on....

[T-Rex]

As far as the other ideas, I have only a 12" lathe, there's no way for me to cut or turn my current barrel on it.

You have a 12" lathe or a 12" bed? 2 different things. I have a 6" lathe and can turn 16.25", between centers. Just making sure you're not selling yourself short. Besides, you can cut the barrel with a hack saw and finish it on the lathe. If you're going to put a chamber at 4-5", you don't need the 11-12" after. Fill it with washers, cones, Ks or a monocore. You can use the barrel takeoff as baffle material, if you wish.

I would need to actually cut the first chamber at a length that would leave most ammo subsonic, so maybe 5" or 4"? Just drilling a gas port style hole wouldnt work because my sleeve fits over the barrel with little clearance, the gas has no where to vent.

This is why you turn the barrel OD smaller between the shoulder you create, near the chamber, and where you cut the barrel. That outer void will trap those initial blast gases. Your baffles will handle the rest.

[WinMag]

Grizzly 7x12 mini lathe. Its very flimsy. Small aluminum parts are all it can handle. Otherwise yes I agree your idea would be much better.

[BCJ]

The barrel on the Savage is small in OD, I think its 5/8" which would just fit through your lathes through bore.

[T-Rex]

The barrel on the Savage is small in OD, I think its 5/8" which would just fit through your lathes through bore.

I was under the impression we were dealing with a .92 bbl. He said he wasn't going to have much clearance between the tube and bbl.

[BinaryAndy]

If I remember right, the barrel on my FVSR is more like .80" in diameter.

Don't practice on a barrel, that could get you in trouble. Just get a piece of 4140 prehard round stock, that should be very close to what Savage uses for barrels.

I still don't see how you're going to enlarge the bore through the baffle stack without putting the barrel in a lathe...

[WinMag]

The barrel is small, only .8". The tube I have is .805"

My spindle bore is only .78"

I would have had someone with a real lathe run an aircraft extension drill bit through the baffles. Then simply crown the barrel from the receiver end.

It's starting to seem unpractical with my limited tooling. As far as practicing on the barrel, do you mean legal trouble? I would have made that one into the silencer, and left my current one stock. I wasn't referring to having two barrels with milling done I realize that would be bad.

[WinMag]

BCJ, Would you mind elaborating on the skirts that lock together? Im having a hard time visualizing baffles that could be pulled out as a single assembly.

I did a form 1 integral Savage MKII. I ended up ditching the factory barrel and used a stainless 10/22 barrel instead. I had to file the extra extractor groove and turn down part of the barrel to press fit into the receiver. I used a 5.5" barrel inside the tube (stainless tube that is pin and welded to keep it 16"). The short barrel keeps most bulk pack subsonic without any ports so there is nothing to clog up. I just used simple cone baffles with built in skirts that lock together so they all slide out for cleaning from the muzzle end.

[T-Rex]

Would you mind elaborating on the skirts that lock together?

Think SGW/SilencerCo, CTA baffles!

[BCJ]

I just it similar to the SWR baffles. The built in spacer clips on the other baffle in the slight recess so the fouling never makes it to the tube. I can pull them all out with a cleaning rod and jag without any force. They basically slide right out no matter how much you shoot.

I used the same basic thing on my micro