It's been a few years but I found my way back. I'd been sitting on a Form 1 but never had the chance to build the can. I bought a Grizzly G0768 lathe and decided it was time to have a go at it. Two of my close friends are machinists so after they ribbed me a little for buying a chinese lathe they offered to let me dig thru the "left overs" shelf at their shop. I got a decent assortment of material to start with. Including a couple 316 "pucks" that in my mind looked like baffles just waiting to be let out.
I'm still a very much a beginner and haven't attempted threading yet so I bought the tube and end caps from SDTA. I made 5 baffles and one spacer out of 316. The end cap seemed "unfinished" just being flat on the inside so I used an old Ford 302 valve spring retainer as a "baffle". The retainer drops into the end cap, then a thin sleeve to keep it in place, then a washer presses against it and captures the two inside.
I had been using my trusty JSS 9mm Mac10 can on my 300BLK SBR. The JSS can is 12" long all aluminum k-baffles. It was exceptionally quiet. But I wanted to make something that would handle supersonic ammo if need be. Hopefully this one will perform.
Any advice or comments?
300BLK M-baffle build
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Re: 300BLK M-baffle build
As has been said by a lot of folks making suppressors for higher power rounds, clipping the lead edge of those baffles will reduce noise considerably. Whether a single clip or two, or even three as has recently been shown for a precision target rifle, any sort of clipping will serve to re-direct gas flow off-bore and out into the perimeter. Some forms of clipping are better than others. There are lots of images in various threads showing the various approaches.
Re: 300BLK M-baffle build
I think you are going to find that 'marginal' at best the way it is.
I'd consider adding some 60° cones in the spacer area. Kind of making 2-part Ks.
Shoot it & see first, but from just looking at the pics, I don't think you're going to like it if it's replacing something Hollywood quiet on 300 BLK subs.
I'd consider adding some 60° cones in the spacer area. Kind of making 2-part Ks.
Shoot it & see first, but from just looking at the pics, I don't think you're going to like it if it's replacing something Hollywood quiet on 300 BLK subs.
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Re: 300BLK M-baffle build
I wasn't sure about clipping. No big deal to go back and add later.
Do cone baffles work better for this application? If it's too loud I suppose I could add cones too. Would aluminum cones work? Or would I need to use 316?
Thanks for all your input!
Do cone baffles work better for this application? If it's too loud I suppose I could add cones too. Would aluminum cones work? Or would I need to use 316?
Thanks for all your input!
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Re: 300BLK M-baffle build
i have a simple very effective small 300 blk design for you , it works great .
Re: 300BLK M-baffle build
V8Astro wrote:I wasn't sure about clipping. No big deal to go back and add later.
Do cone baffles work better for this application? If it's too loud I suppose I could add cones too. Would aluminum cones work? Or would I need to use 316?
Thanks for all your input!
I don't know that the baffle you have pictured works well in any application. Maybe a dozen of them or so, but not what you have pictured. That's not an order of magnitude difference from a flat washer. A lot of us here have had great 300 BLK results from plain old 60° smooth cones.
AL cones would work, but won't be durable. You want some flavor of steel other than mild. I wouldn't use 304 or 316 SS just because the tool I grind to do the inside doesn't break chips and i wouldn't want to deal with the sharp bird's nest it would make on that operation. But there's no reason you couldn't if you already have the material. They're super easy to make. Just grind a tool with lots of clearance. Mine looks like this:
If you put a 60° chamfer on the end of the spacer and make your cones about .055" thick you won't grow much in overall stack length.
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Re: 300BLK M-baffle build
Thanks for your input CMV. At the end you mentioned a 60* chamfer. Im guessing that you suggest I make 60* cones and nest them into this chamfer? Sorry I sound so green. Most of my experience with making things is from the automotive world. Roll cages and steering systems are tape measure and cut to fit
I'm lucky I have friends who can get all the HSS blanks I need (within reason). I'll go out to the shop and see if I have any 1/4 or 5/16 blanks and try the design you showed. Also...any particular grade of steel you prefer for the cones?
I'm lucky I have friends who can get all the HSS blanks I need (within reason). I'll go out to the shop and see if I have any 1/4 or 5/16 blanks and try the design you showed. Also...any particular grade of steel you prefer for the cones?
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Re: 300BLK M-baffle build
I believe you understand what CMV is conveying.
Go for the larger tool steel when cutting low machinability steel, ie SS
316, if you have it.
Go for the larger tool steel when cutting low machinability steel, ie SS
316, if you have it.
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Re: 300BLK M-baffle build
Isn't this really more of a B instead of M?V8Astro wrote:
The issue is lack of depth.
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Re: 300BLK M-baffle build
I got out to the range today. I have a friend with an 300BLK AR pistol and a brand new 30cal Saker. We shot quite a few times side by side as a yard-stick to my F1 build. Mine has a hell of an FRP but quickly quiets down. Have a look....
https://youtu.be/UQAerOCDN8w
https://youtu.be/UQAerOCDN8w
Re: 300BLK M-baffle build
That was with what you have pictured above or after adding cones to it?
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Re: 300BLK M-baffle build
As pictured!CMV wrote:That was with what you have pictured above or after adding cones to it?
Re: 300BLK M-baffle build
How big is your first chamber.
Re: 300BLK M-baffle build
1.5" including the end capSamson104 wrote:How big is your first chamber.